Hands-On With The Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 Chronographs
Kuoe (pronounced like “quo”) is not a brand that we have featured in a dedicated article before here on Fratello. However, it has been on our radar for some time. My Fratello colleague Gerard has been interested in the Japanese brand for some time and featured its Old Smith 90-002 in a list of his favorite watches under €1,000. Now we have the opportunity to explore a new series of watches that Kuoe kindly sent us for review. The new Royal Smith 90-012 Chronographs constitute the brand’s first trio of automatic chronographs. It’s an interesting new series, and I was happy to find out more about it.
Looking at the Kuoe catalog, we find an interesting mix of retro-style quartz and mechanical watches. Their style is rooted in the classic silhouettes of early to mid-20th-century watches. Gerard’s favorite, the Old Smith 90-002, takes influence from the British military watches of the early 20th century. The tonneau-shaped Royal Smith 90-008 takes cues from 1940s pieces with that characteristic case shape. As you take a little trip through the collection, you will constantly find those historical references that immediately give the brand’s watches a charm that is hard to deny.
The story of the Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 chronographs
As mentioned, the new Royal Smith 90-012 models are Kuoe’s first automatic chronographs, but they’re not the brand’s first chronographs in general. The new models follow the manual-winding Royal Smith 90-010 series that debuted last year.
But the new models are more than just self-winding versions of those. To begin with, they’re also slightly bigger, and Kuoe offers various dial colors and executions that distinguish these watches from their counterparts.
Let’s go over the details of this new series. First, the new Royal Smith 90-012 chronographs each have a 37mm stainless steel case with a 44mm lug-to-lug and a 14.3mm total thickness. The case also has a 20mm lug spacing and a 50m water resistance rating.
The watches feature two rectangular chronograph pushers on the right side and a classic knurled crown, making them easy to operate. With their modest diameter and substantial thickness, these watches have a chunky presence. But putting them on the wrist proved to be a fun experience. I’ll be sure to get to that in a bit, though.
The different dial colors and executions
First, let’s go over the two-register chronograph dials. The Kyoto-based brand offers three dial colors. The first is salmon pink, the second is navy, and the third is silver. In terms of style, all colors are available with either polished Breguet-style numerals or bar indexes. The first dial style has a far more classic presence, while the second looks a bit more contemporary. We received examples of both for review so we could see the differences.
All of the dials are full of details. The hour markers, regardless of which style you pick, sit atop a textured outer ring. Located at 6 o’clock is a nicely integrated and framed date window. The central part of the dial is slightly recessed and features a vertically brushed finish. Lastly, the two sub-dials feature azurage for an additional texture on the dial.
Lastly, the chronograph scale occupies the rehaut, which features circular brushing to add even more depth and detail to these watches. Accompanying the classic sword-style central hour and minute hands is a thin central chronograph hand with a curved tip. Additionally, the two dagger-style hands used for the sub-dials complete the vintage-inspired look of the dials.
The bracelets further emphasize the overall style of the dials
When it comes to bracelets, you have the choice of either a flat-link (three-row) or a Jubilee (five-row) style. Both suit the watch’s design very well. However, if you pick the flat-link bracelet, it will look a bit more contemporary. That’s why it fits the dial option with the bar indexes better.
If you pick the Jubilee-style bracelet for the dial option with the Breguet numerals, it will further enhance the classic look of the watch. Both bracelets feature quick-release spring bars and screw-fastened links. Additionally, the clasp of both bracelets houses a toolless micro-adjustment system, allowing wearers to easily size the watch to perfection.
Hiding behind the all-steel case back is the TMI NE86A caliber. Seiko Instruments produces this automatic column-wheel chronograph movement, which operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers 45 hours of power reserve.
On top of that, the caliber has an accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day. In terms of layout, the sub-seconds register occupies the space at 3 o’clock, while the 30-minute chronograph counter takes its place at 9 o’clock.
Wearing the Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 Chronographs
As mentioned, the three watches are rather chunky. With their small 37mm diameter and 14.3mm thickness, these charming chronographs can feel top-heavy. As a result, you will need to size the bracelet perfectly to ensure the watch doesn’t move too much on the wrist. If it does, it will get annoying rather quickly. We tried the watches on the two bracelets and a leather strap that is also included with the purchase.
On all three, I was able to wear the watch without too many issues. However, in all fairness, the proportions are unusual and detract from the watches’ charm. If they were 2mm thinner, the proportions would have been much better.
It would significantly increase wearability and also create a nice overall profile on the wrist. For people with larger wrists, like me, it’s perfectly wearable as is. However, the proportions make it look chunkier than I would like from a smaller chronograph.
Final thoughts on the new Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 chronographs
What I did like, however, was engaging with the watch. Overall, it feels solid and well built. Operating the chronograph is a joy. It starts, stops, and resets with a series of firm clicks. This amplifies the reassuring feeling of wearing a solid chronograph that will perform its tasks flawlessly. Furthermore, it’s hard to deny that the watches possess plenty of retro appeal. I loved the dials with the Breguet-style numerals. They have a nostalgic romance that attracts me more than the simpler hour markers do.
These new Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 chronographs certainly have a lovable presence. They offer vintage charm and the benefits of the latest production methods. No matter what dial variant or bracelet option you pick, these new Royal Smith 90-012 chronographs are available for €2,000. At this price point, these watches compete with chronographs from other small brands like Baltic, Nivada Grenchen, and Furlan Marri, among others.
Overall, I was impressed by the charm and build quality of these affordable chronographs. As mentioned, the thickness will likely become a much-debated point of discussion. I would have also loved to see a slimmer profile, as that would make these watches easier to wear. Other than that, it’s hard to deny that these new Royal Smith 90-012 chronographs are a fitting addition to the brand’s lineup.
This is a partnership post. Learn more.
