Hands-On With The New 38mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms — Is This The Perfect Size?
Many enthusiasts have been crying out for a smaller Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Many were also disappointed when Blancpain obliged with two female-targeted models last week. Today, however, we see the range completed with 38mm non-gendered models. I got a chance to go hands-on with the new 38mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Here’s how we got along!
The new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is available in steel, Grade 23 titanium, and 18K red gold. You get a choice of black and blue sunburst dials. All the familiar Blancpain strap and bracelet combinations make for 11 possible configurations, spanning a price range from CHF 14,000 to CHF 28,500.
The new 38mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
This new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms isn’t merely the same as the 42mm version with a smaller diameter. Blancpain reworked the entire watch to come to a balanced design. In fact, it even underwent a heart transplant, switching to a smaller movement. The case dimensions look sweet on paper, with a 38.2mm diameter, a 43.8mm lug-to-lug, and a 12mm thickness.
The case has a sapphire crystal on each side, including a very mildly domed one up top. Naturally, this is a true dive watch with a screw-in case back, a screw-down crown, and a 300m depth rating.
The Blancpain caliber 1150
The sapphire window in the case back offers a view of the lovely caliber 1150. The existing 42mm and 45mm models house caliber 1315. Caliber 1150 measures around 4mm smaller in diameter, facilitating the 38mm version’s smaller case. This comes at the expense of 20 hours of power reserve, which is still an ample 100 hours. The 210-part movement ticks at 21,600vph, and its silicon hairspring ensures resistance to magnetism.
As you would expect in this price segment, the caliber looks lovely. You get neatly rifled soleillage on the plates as well as beautiful anglage. The retro-styled rotor is fashioned out of 18K gold and has a frosted gray NAC coating.
While last week’s ladies’ versions came without a date, the new 38mm Fifty Fathoms in genderless guise features one at 4:30.
The 38mm model in titanium with a blue dial
Wearing the 38mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
That’s all well and good, but I am sure you want to know how these new watches wear. After all, that’s what all the fuss is about here, isn’t it? I am happy to report that they wear very well. Thanks to the short 43.8mm case length, this Fifty Fathoms is a small-wearing 38mm watch. I have an 18cm wrist, and I love the fit. The short lugs, however, ensure a perfect stance even on wrists much smaller than mine.
The 38mm model in steel/black
Crucially, the 38mm Fifty Fathoms measures a full 2.5mm thinner than its 42mm brother. That makes a significant difference in wearing comfort and elegance. Speaking of elegance, the stainless steel models feature completely polished cases, whereas the larger ones have some brushed components.
I always emphasize that resizing a watch design is much harder than simply scaling it up or down. You want to rethink the proportions to suit the new dimensions. I can attest that Blancpain did a masterful job here, especially on the dial. Everything sits a bit closer together, leaving less negative space. This makes the watch feel more cohesive to me.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 38mm in titanium
A word on quality
There is no getting around the fact that these are costly watches. Whichever size or version you pick, this is a luxury proposition. The question is: does the watch do its price tag justice?
I can attest that the build quality is fantastic. The 38mm Fifty Fathoms feels like a pebble in the hand, smooth and rock solid. This theme continues as you interact with it. The unidirectional bezel rotates with confident, firm clicks that remind me of a Geiger counter in sound (No Rad pun intended). The crown, similarly, feels as if it runs on rails when unscrewing or screwing. Winding and setting the time and date feels buttery smooth, with just enough resistance to feel weighted and reliable.
The steel model in black and the titanium model in blue
Aesthetically, the 38mm Fifty Fathoms has nothing to be insecure about either. The dial features a sunburst effect, but it is so subtle and refined that it doesn’t detract from the functional nature of a dive watch. The applied elements on the dial look flawless under magnification, and so does the caliber. All in all, while the new 38mm FF doesn’t shout about it, it certainly conveys a silent quality and luxury. No complaints here!
Comparing the 38mm, 42mm, and 45mm versions
Blancpain was kind enough to lend me the existing 42(.3)mm and 45mm Fifty Fathoms models alongside the new 38mm Fifty Fathoms. This offered a rare opportunity to compare sizes. As my time with the current Fifty Fathoms was very limited before, this was an eye-opening experience.
I am delighted to report that all three sizes fit me like a glove. Yes, I am generally a fan of smaller watches, but even the 45mm version sits just right on my 18cm wrist. It doesn’t feel overly large, nor does it look it. Similarly, the 38mm version does not look or feel dainty on me. The 42mm version, as you might expect, capably splits the difference.
The difference, however, is in the character of these three watches. It goes to show that a watch’s size is a determining factor in the message it conveys. I found the 45mm model to look and feel like a serious diving tool. The 42mm model is a more versatile, sporty watch. Meanwhile, the 38mm version feels more vintage and precious. I don’t mean “precious” as in “fragile” but as in “fancy and luxurious.” The watch takes on a completely different character with each size.
So, which size would I pick?
I always love it when a watch works in different ways in different sizes. Sometimes, you can only pull off one of the options available, so the decision is easy. In this case, I could happily rock any of the three options on my very average-sized wrist.
Initially, I found myself leaning towards the 42mm version. It felt like the most balanced of the three, and I don’t mind a diver being a bit larger. However, I have spent this entire day switching between the 42mm and 38mm models, and I have changed my mind. If I were spending my money, I would buy the 38mm Fifty Fathoms.
Why? Well, in part, it’s because I like it from an ergonomic angle. Of course, it is the lightest and most compact option. At the same time, being a little compressed somehow made it feel more precious to me. I found it the most refined and sophisticated of the three. While those aren’t necessarily the first criteria for a hardcore dive watch, I do appreciate those qualities. Still, I would happily add any of the three size options to my collection.
Which would be your pick? Would you take the new 38mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms over its bigger siblings? Let us know in the comments section below.
