Hands-On With The New Lederer CIC 39 Longitude

Just one year ago, I was introduced to Lederer watches. The brand, founded by Bernhard Lederer, creates incredible movements with complex mechanisms. Constant-force escapements and twin gear trains are some of the impressive details. Last year, I fell in love with the Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer, a set of 44mm watches that had traveled to multiple countries. Now, there’s a smaller set of models inspired by last year’s release. We spent time with the new CIC 39 Longitude and loved every minute of it.

Last year’s Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer was an impressive release. Lederer sent the watches to the observatories in Besançon, Glashütte, and Geneva for accuracy testing. Of course, they passed with flying colors at each of them. Additionally, they featured an endearing design reminiscent of legendary watches, such as the Patek Philippe JB Champion Observatory Chronometer. But, as much as these watches were lovely objects to behold, the 44mm diameter made them difficult to wear. With the CIC 39 Longitude, Lederer has transferred much of the design onto a more manageable platform.

The Lederer CIC 39 Longitude

You’re excused if you’ve mistaken the latest Lederer for an exact copy of last year’s Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer. From a design perspective, the new models are dead ringers, but as we’ll see, there are aesthetic differences. First, the 44mm case has been downsized, giving it a 39mm diameter and a 44mm lug-to-lug. As you can imagine, these dimensions and a reasonable 10.75mm thickness have a monumental impact on wearability. Next, Lederer opted for 18K white gold in place of stainless steel for the 30m-water-resistant cases. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, the watches are available with either a white or cobalt-blue dial.

Let’s break down the name of this watch. “CIC” refers to Central Impulse Chronometer. The “39” indicates the case diameter, and the use of “Longitude” has a deeper meaning. I’ll address this when we detail the movement, but aesthetically, the watch pays homage to the prime meridian with a vertical double line running from the top to the bottom of the dial.

The 44mm Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer (left) and the 39mm CIC 39 Longitude

Two fantastic options

While the new CIC 39 Longitude dials are simpler, they still impress with their clean, no-nonsense designs. In fact, there’s a bit of wonderful Jekyll and Hyde happening because the Bauhaus-like dials contrast so heavily with the ornate exhibition case back. Each watch has a series of sectors and lengthy hour markers. At the cardinal points, Lederer has chosen applied baton indexes, which provide a level of contrasting detail. The in-house-produced hands are delicate with skeletonized arrow-shaped tips. Finally, an offset small seconds register ensures that the dial isn’t too utilitarian.

Turning the watch over reveals a different animal

Based on the visage of the CIC 39 Longitude alone, I’d be perfectly happy to own or wear one. Flip the piece on its side or back, though, and it feels like the scene from Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory when the children first enter the Chocolate Room. In other words, the world opens in splendor. Lederer has designed a complex, curved sapphire display back that provides an uninterrupted view of the movement. From the side, the sapphire forms a gentle arc between the lugs, and the result is a liquid-like suspension of the movement. It’s beautiful and, again, when juxtaposed against the serious-looking dial, it’s the perfect contrast. But is the view worth the price of admission?

A stunning in-house movement

We’re no longer strangers to Bernhard Lederer’s sumptuous calibers, but viewing them never becomes tiring. The 9016 Dual Detent Escapement is a manual-winding caliber with 38 hours of power reserve and a frequency of 21,600vph. Stopping there, though, would be a pity because these movements are mechanically impressive. Each features twin barrels, twin gear trains, two constant-force mechanisms, and two independent escapement wheels.

The tie back into the Longitude moniker, though, relates to the remontoir d’égalité, which is part of the winding mechanism. For over 500 years, clock/watchmakers have used this innovation to supply steady power to escapements, resulting in greater accuracy. This invention was a feature of marine chronometers and was vital to using longitude as a navigation tool. Lederer, with its Central Impulse Chronometer, became the first brand to introduce twin remontoirs. With 95% of all production in-house, the movements are also beautifully finished.

The CIC 39 Longitude is at home on the wrist

During Geneva Watch Days 2025, we spent time with the CIC 39 Longitude duo, and this included trying them on for size. It’s easy to be initially impressed by all the new watches at such an event, but I loved these new Lederers. With their supple calfskin straps and simple white gold pin buckles, the watches felt natural on the wrist. For exotic watches, that’s not a guarantee when so many are large, extra thick, or too audacious. The CIC 39 Longitude is a quiet force, and with such a powerhouse movement, it’s like having the ultimate stealth watch. While we didn’t publish a best-of-show article from each Fratello attendee, these pieces were in my top three.

Exclusive and luxuriously priced

Lederer is a small watchmaker and, therefore, will produce only 12 examples of each dial color. That’s a shame, but with a price of CHF 158,000, it may be the appropriate number. The figure isn’t small by any stretch, but I do think in any guise, these watches are marvels. Besides, there are plenty of other pieces at this price (or higher) that trade more on shock value and celebrity status than actual watchmaking chops. Your mileage may vary, but if I were spending at this level, I know what I’d choose.