Hands-On With The New Ulysse Nardin × Urwerk Ur-Freak [Live Photos]

Some watches catch you off guard, and then there are the ones that genuinely stop you in your tracks. The Ulysse Nardin × Urwerk Ur-Freak belongs firmly in the latter camp. I first saw it during Geneva Watch Days a couple of months back, inside Ulysse Nardin’s boutique, when someone slid a non-disclosure agreement across the counter. That might sound like standard practice, but it isn’t. Most of the time, new releases are shown behind closed doors, based on trust and discretion. When there’s paperwork, you know you’re about to see something significant.

What I saw next was unlike anything I expected — a watch born from two of the most original minds in modern horology. Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk have joined forces, and somehow, the result feels completely natural.

When worlds collide

It’s almost strange that this collaboration hasn’t happened sooner. Both Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk have spent decades carving their distinct lanes in watchmaking, yet their philosophies align perfectly. Ulysse Nardin’s Freak changed everything when it debuted in 2001 — it was the first to put its movement on full display, using it to tell the time. Urwerk, on the other hand, has been bending the rules of time indication since the late ’90s with its wandering satellite hours. The Ur-Freak brings those two worlds together, and the result is pure mechanical harmony.

The watch takes the architecture of the Freak One and reimagines it through Urwerk’s lens. With a 44mm diameter, it’s large, as you’d expect, but it doesn’t feel overbearing thanks to the matte sandblasted titanium case. The dark anthracite tone softens the visual weight, and the bold yellow rubber strap and accents inject just enough energy to remind you that this watch wants to be noticed.

Freak by form, Urwerk by function

Following on from the case, Ulysse Nardin’s crownless concept is still here, operated through a rotating bezel that’s locked by a small tab at 6 o’clock. Lift the tab, turn the bezel, and the time adjusts. It’s simple, tactile, satisfying, and something that no other watch quite replicates. But inside that familiar Freak silhouette lies Urwerk’s unmistakable wandering-hour system. Three satellite arms take turns sweeping across the minute scale, each carrying a domed hour disc that jumps as the carousel rotates.

What really impressed me is how seamlessly these two ideas coexist. You can immediately recognize both brand signatures, yet nothing feels forced. The design doesn’t read as “Urwerk on a Freak” or “Freak with a Urwerk dial.” Instead, it feels born from a single creative language. The fluted bezel sections and caseback details scream Urwerk, while the overall silhouette is unmistakably Ulysse Nardin. This is the first true collaboration I’ve seen in a while where the watch isn’t dominated by one brand, and it’s a perfect split.

The mechanics behind the magic

The beating heart inside is the automatic caliber UN-241, developed jointly for this project. It’s based on Ulysse Nardin’s GPHG-winning Freak One movement but redesigned to integrate Urwerk’s satellite system. The movement includes the brand’s DIAMonSil escapement (a silicon base coated with diamond), which dramatically improves durability and reduces friction. Silicon has been part of Ulysse Nardin’s DNA since 2001, and the brand has filed more than 20 patents in the field. It’s antimagnetic, lightweight, and doesn’t require lubrication, making it ideal for a watch designed around visible motion and constant rotation.

Then, there’s the Grinder automatic winding system. What’s that? Glad you asked. Technically, it’s one of the most efficient mechanisms in watchmaking. Unlike a traditional rotor that relies on large wrist movements, Grinder uses a four-armed frame connected to a flexible transmission system that multiplies even the smallest motion. Each arm acts like a micro-lever, capturing energy from both directions of movement and transferring it to the mainspring with minimal loss. It’s almost hypersensitive to motion, converting even the faintest vibrations into usable winding power. The result is a movement that feels alive, responding to every subtle motion of the wrist. But, if you prefer a more hands-on approach, you can also wind it manually by turning the case back.

The balance wheel sits proudly in the center of the dial, oscillating as the entire satellite system rotates around it once every three hours. It’s mesmerizing to watch. Between the wandering hours, glowing Super-LumiNova tracks, and exposed mechanics, there’s always something moving.

Freak on the wrist

At 44mm, the Ur-Freak won’t disappear under a cuff, but it’s not meant to. It’s surprisingly wearable thanks to the curvature of the case and the case-hugging rubber strap, which feels soft and secure. The ballistic-textured yellow rubber version is particularly striking, although there’s also a stealthier black strap available for those who prefer subtlety. Give me the yellow one all day long, though. Despite the Ur-Freak’s complexity, it’s not an uncomfortable watch. The titanium keeps the weight down, and the ergonomics have clearly been refined from the Freak One.

This is the kind of watch that starts conversations, even among people who don’t normally engage with high-end independents. It looks futuristic, but it’s also deeply mechanical. It’s one of those rare watches that feels like it’s from another world yet is rooted in the craftsmanship of traditional horology. Gimme.

A true meeting of minds

I see a lot of collaborations these days, but few feel this cohesive. Too often, partnerships amount to a dial color swap or a logo placement. This one is different. The Ur-Freak is a fully integrated creation, not a rebranded special edition. Both brands have contributed their core strengths — Urwerk’s conceptual design and Ulysse Nardin’s technical innovation — to produce something genuinely new.

The Freak was always meant to be a laboratory for experimentation, and the Ur-Freak continues that philosophy in the best possible way. It challenges convention while celebrating two decades of progress from both sides. It’s a technical marvel, but more importantly, it’s a watch that makes you feel something, and that’s the highest compliment I can give.

Final thoughts

When I left Ulysse Nardin’s Geneva boutique, I remember thinking how rare it is to be truly surprised anymore. In this industry, we see so many watches that it takes a lot to make us pause. But this watch did that to me. The Ulysse Nardin × Urwerk Ur-Freak isn’t just one of the year’s most striking collaborations; to me, it’s also one of the most meaningful.

Sure, it’s big and costs a whopping CHF 100,000 before tax, but it’s one of the most exciting mechanical statements I’ve seen in years. It’s bold, clever, and beautifully executed. This is the kind of watch that reminds me why I fell in love with watchmaking in the first place. After all, not everything has to be owned to be appreciated. To those lucky 100 future owners, I salute you.