Dress watches are on the rise, especially among members of Gen Z. They like to mix the more formal style and smaller size with their oversized and informal wardrobes. But that, of course, isn’t at all the way dress watches are intended to be worn. That’s why Raymond Weil and seconde/seconde/ have developed a limited version of the Toccata Heritage. With a few handy pointers, they teach you how to wear your newly acquired dress watch. And don’t worry if you forgot about the rules for a moment. They’re right there on the dial and the case back to get you back on track.

Last year, Thomas’s article on the topic of watch etiquette spurred quite some discussion in the comments section. Of course, everyone should wear their watches anyway they like, but sometimes it’s fun to see which unwritten rules people adhere to. Romaric André, also known as seconde/seconde/, took some of those unwritten rules and literally applied them to the dial and case back of the new limited-edition Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage. Let’s take a look.

Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/ portrait shot

The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/

I think one of the reasons why dress watches are so popular right now is that they clash so well with the informal way of dressing nowadays. The contrast between oversized sweaters and jackets and petite, formal-looking dress watches is exactly why people get so excited over them. But of course, that’s not the way they were originally intended, and that’s exactly what Raymond Weil and seconde/seconde/ remind us of with their new limited-edition Toccata Heritage.

Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/ dial text

If you want to properly wear your dress watch, you should take some basic rules into account. The most important one is to pay attention to whether your watch is covered by your dress shirt’s cuff and by how much. To help you ease into it, Romaric put some directions on the Toccata Heritage’s dial. The entire dial is anthracite, but the left half is matte, indicating the part that should ideally be covered by the cuff, and the other has a sunburst finish and applied indexes. If the dial’s finishing wasn’t clear enough, there’s also an explanation printed on the dial in yellow: “Dress shirt cuff should cover at least half of the watch.”

Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/ under-sapphire text

You can, of course, let your shirt’s cuff cover up the watch a little more than that. Of course, though, that has implications for the impression you’re giving off. The yellow pointers on the underside of the sapphire crystal help you out here. Going a little over half of the watch makes you look more “biz casual.” At three-quarters, you look “semi-formal,” and going even further than that makes you look straight-out “formal.”

Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/ case back potrait shot

Only wind pretentiously

This etiquette, or The Dress Watch Code, as Raymond Weil and seconde/seconde/ refer to it, isn’t limited to while you’re wearing the watch. Turn the watch over, and you’ll find some advice on how to wind the 19-jewel manual RW4100 (Sellita SW210-1-based) movement inside. First, make sure you’re in the middle of a conversation. Then, take the watch off your wrist and start winding it in a dramatic fashion. The peephole on the case back lets you verify whether you’re actually winding the watch or not.

Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/ case back

If you do this correctly, the watch will tick at 28,800 vibrations per hour for 45 hours. Be careful with water, though, because this watch, with its screw-fastened case back, is only water resistant to 3 atm. In any case, the 17mm-wide black calfskin strap with alligator-style embossing also won’t fare well with a lot of moisture.

Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/ over-shoulder wrist shot

Also works with a more informal wardrobe

Unfortunately, when we got the Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/ LE in for a hands-on review, I wasn’t wearing a dress shirt. However, as you can see in the pictures, this shows that the watch also works with more informal attire. On my 17cm wrist, the 32.5 × 37.7mm case wears very well. And if you do indeed choose to wear it with a dress shirt, its slender 6.95mm thickness will ensure it slides very easily under your cuff. Just make sure to pay attention to how much of the watch is still visible.

Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/ pocket shot

The new Toccata Heritage collection was a big hit when it debuted a little over a month ago. This seconde/seconde/ limited edition is, in my eyes, another very successful version with a big wink toward the watch community. In a way, it’s the dress-watch version of the Christopher Ward × seconde/seconde/ Desk Diver that came out last year. That watch sold out in no time, and I’m sure the Toccata Heritage Limited Edition will be popular as well. There’s no information about how limited this watch actually is. If you want one, though, make sure to be quick.

Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/ on wrist, arms crossed

The new Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/ costs €1,825. For more information, visit the official Raymond Weil website.

Let me know in the comments below what you think of the new Toccata Heritage. And how do you wear your dress watch?

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Toccata Heritage × seconde/seconde/
Reference
2280-STC-SEC01
Dial
Vertically split, matte anthracite opaline half with yellow (Pantone 7402C) text, sunburst anthracite half with applies indexes
Case Material
Stainless steel
Case Dimensions
32.5mm (diameter) × 37.7mm (length) × 6.95mm (thickness)
Crystal
Sapphire with yellow text printed on underside
Case Back
Stainless steel with engraving and small sapphire display for ratchet wheel, affixed with four screws
Movement
RW4100 (Sellita SW210-1 base): manual winding, 28,800vph, 45-hour power reserve, 19 jewels
Water Resistance
3 atm (30 meters)
Strap
Black calfskin leather (17mm width) with alligator pattern and pin buckle
Functions
Time only (hours, minutes)
Price
€1,825
Special Note(s)
Limited edition (total quantity unspecified)