Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf
Like many watch brands, TAG Heuer regularly produces limited or special editions. The difference, and advantage, however, is the brand’s history and involvement with top-tier motorsports. Legions of racers wore vintage Heuer watches during the golden age of racing in the 1960s. None, though, stand out quite like the Monaco. The groundbreaking square watch is inextricably linked to Steve McQueen and Gulf Oil. Today, we go hands-on with the latest Gulf-themed Monaco Chronograph and declare it one of the best limited editions in recent history.
From a distance, it’s potentially easy to dismiss yet another McQueen-inspired Monaco. After all, the brand has leaned heavily on the iconic actor’s image since the watch returned in 1998. Yet, the team at TAG Heuer continues to find a way to add new designs and details. We recently had some in-the-metal time with the new watch and will explore what makes it so special.
The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf
When I first saw the new Monaco Chronograph × Gulf, I knew something was different from previous models with a similar theme. Yes, two prior pieces have come from La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, from as far back as 2018. The major difference, however, is that these watches featured dark blue dials. The new watch breaks the mold and has a silver dial complete with the hallmark blue and orange stripes that English racing manager John Wyer fitted to most of his racers. In addition to actual racing, these race cars were seen in the 1971 film Le Mans starring Steve McQueen. This watch celebrates the film as a 971-piece limited edition.
A refreshing and different light silver dial
In certain lighting, this Monaco’s dial appears white and gives it a fresh, airy look. Black elements, such as the two sub-dials, printed hour markers, the font, and the date window’s frame, provide sharp clarity against the light background. Another noticeable feature is the separate lower layer for the 30-minute and running-seconds sub-dials. These have sharply defined edges, a detail befitting a higher-end chronograph like this.
Logos on dials are rarely my bag, but the Gulf emblem is a distinct exception. I still remember one of the brand’s service stations on the way to my grandparents’ house. The huge rotating sign always gave off a friendly, welcoming look, and I loved the color combination. That’s a weird thing to say about a gas station, but it sticks out as a reminder of heading to see beloved family members. Aside from the logo, the colors repeat in vertical stripes down the dial’s right side. Orange makes a repeat appearance as the central chronograph hand. While the watch maintains the use of applied, horizontal indexes, it differs from prior Gulf-themed watches with Super-LumiNova used solely on the central hands.
A sandblasted titanium case is the answer
The other big news with the latest Monaco Chronograph × Gulf is the case material. TAG Heuer opted for a sandblasted Grade 2 titanium case, and it looks fantastic! While the material is seen as more advanced than typical stainless steel, it lends the watch a more down-and-dirty technical appearance. That’s highly welcome and removes any polished, reflective surfaces from the sharp 39mm by 47.4mm case. It also helps reduce the weight of this chunky 15mm-thick chronograph. The finish, by the way, continues on the Heuer-signed crown and left-flank pushers.
The modern Caliber 11 is “fine”
With movements like the in-house TH20-00, the modern Caliber 11 inside this Monaco feels like a slight letdown. Yes, it was imperative to maintain the historic left-side pusher location in line with the original. Still, the 40-hour power reserve and chunky Sellita/Dubois-Dépraz sandwich seem a tad inappropriate for a watch that competes among luxury chronographs. The positive is that the 59-jewel movement is known for its reliability. From my experience, that’s something that can’t always be said about the ’60s Caliber 11.
Rocking the summer whites
For those who desire a more traditional, office-ready look, the new Monaco × Gulf ships with a perforated blue calfskin strap. That’s a wise and practical move, but we’re thankful that our test piece arrived donning the additional white Nomex strap. The use of this fire-resistant material, often found on racing suits, is a novel move that’s worthy of applause. It works well as a strap material and should break in nicely once the leather backing conforms to the wrist.
A white cloth strap sounds like a magnet for dirt. Thankfully, the material is tough, durable, and easy to clean with some mild detergent or soap. Honestly, it’s such a cool look, and the orange stitching provides the perfect finishing touch. Another nice detail is a huge Heuer-branded push-button folding clasp. It’s comfortable and executed in case-matching sandblasted Grade 2 titanium.
A “very Monaco” wearing experience, but lighter
As the owner of a vintage Heuer Monaco, I can safely state that few, if any, watches wear quite like it. These watches are commanding, yes, but not in an over-the-top testosterone-fueled manner. A Monaco feels classy and like a well-made tool. Sure, the racing-suit-derived dial stripes give off sporty vibes, but the composition doesn’t look cheesy. Another benefit is the lightness due to the case’s titanium construction. A word of caution, though: I rarely suggest buying a pricey new watch without trying it on. That advice goes double for any model in the Monaco collection. Due to the flat case back and unique case shape, the design won’t work for everyone. Oddly, wrist size has always seemed less important than wrist shape to ensure a great fit. The bottom line? Go try on one of these lovely pieces at your local AD!
Final thoughts
An important disclaimer is that I don’t love every TAG Heuer Monaco release. This new light-toned Gulf limited edition is pretty damn awesome because of the dial design and case material. The watch-nerdy addition of the white Nomex strap bolsters the cool factor. My only reservation is the movement, but I think that’s a quibble that can be overcome if the watch feels good on the wrist. The tougher challenge is the €9,400 / US$9,550 / £8,300 price. Then again, a Monaco has never been inexpensive. If you’ve been considering a race-inspired luxury chronograph that looks amazing on the wrist, this is worth a look.
