Introducing: The Revamped Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Collection
If we polled a large group of die-hard watch fans and asked them to associate a word with Breitling, the answer would be something like “pilot” or “chronograph.” However, if we were to run the same experiment among the general populace, a surprisingly different answer might emerge. It turns out that diving and, in particular, the SuperOcean Heritage, is a huge crowd-pleaser. Therefore, a revamp of the lineup requires serious consideration and planning.
Today, Breitling announces a new SuperOcean Heritage collection, and folks, I’ll spoil it right here: the brand nailed it. As we’ll see, the watches represent an evolution rather than a complete change (the SuperOcean brought a much-needed wholehearted change), but the updates are still significant. Best of all, and finally, these watches should attract new buyers who struggled to wear the prior generation. I had the chance to see all the variants without time constraints here in London. At the same time, our HQ was able to shoot live photos of five of the models. Our thoughts on one of the brand’s most important collections are as follows.
An automotive analogy to the SuperOcean Heritage
At one time or another, I’ve worked for all of the Detroit “Big Three” automotive OEMs. Say what you will about these companies, but their pick-up trucks are undisputedly legendary. These highly American vehicles also drive a huge share of the profits and revenues at each of the companies. As someone who worked in procurement, I was always trying to save money by changing things. One lesson I learned very quickly was that I could chip away at just about everything, but I had to stay the hell away from the pick-ups. You see, brand loyalty, market share, and profitability were so important for these vehicles that only an act of God could approve even the smallest change, fearing it would upset the customer. So, why kick off an article about the new SuperOcean Heritage collection with a distant analogy about trucks? It turns out that this collection of watches is akin to Breitling’s pick-up. They’re that damn important, so when changes come, they’d better be correct.
What I learned in London
During my visit to the Breitling Regent Street boutique, I was fortunate to be hosted by Gavin Murphy, Managing Director of Breitling UK. We discussed the current marketplace and the importance of today’s new launch. First, Breitling has been on a relative tear in the UK, moving up in terms of sales rankings to number five (yes, these numbers are always a bit cloudy, but if the basis hasn’t changed, it shows that the brand is advancing). Second, and perhaps unsurprisingly, the SuperOcean Heritage is the number-two model line behind the Navitimer in the UK. Finally, the UK is also the largest market for the brand behind the USA. So yes, this watch is crucial.
A bevy of options, including smaller sizes
With a roll-out of a volume model line like the SuperOcean Heritage, expect many variants. In time-only format, the watches are available in 36mm, 40mm, 42mm, and 44mm diameters. A 42mm chronograph is also available. Aluminum bezel inserts are now a thing of the past, with ceramic coming in as a more apt replacement. Don’t worry; I’ll run down the other dimensions, materials, and chronometer-certified movements shortly. The other big news is that most of the three-hand models use the new caliber B31, which has an exclusive production line at Sellita’s AMT division. As we’ll see, aside from the timekeeping benefits, the movement allows for smaller and thinner cases.
Aside from this, each watch is available with a new, thinner stainless steel mesh bracelet or a dial-colored textured rubber strap. Both use a folding, butterfly-style clasp, and unlike in the past, the ends conform to the case shape, a key detail that cleans up the design.
The dial design
As discussed, the new SuperOcean Heritage is an evolution and will be instantly recognizable to fans. However, there are thoughtful changes that add up to a more modern (a paradoxical comment considering the retro nature of these watches) and more expensive appearance. The dials have a sunray finish that gleams in the light.
The applied indexes are tapered to a point and filled with Super-LumiNova around the dial’s circumference. The 2020 SuperOcean Heritage ’57 lends cues to the more detailed hour hand and the circular index at the top of the dial. A rectangular date window with a black-on-white date wheel integrates well at the bottom. Somehow, the watches now have more detail but are cleaner and more elegant.
Improved cases
A thinner movement has allowed Breitling to offer a more sculpted case design that conforms to the wrist. Indeed, the watches fit my wrist like a glove, and because of shortened lug-to-lug lengths, I can even comfortably wear the 42mm versions. The polished cases suit the shape and the polished dial hardware. Another nice detail is the new shape of the screw-down crowns. The large, blocky design has been replaced with a subtler, rounded form, reminding us of vintage Borgel crowns. Naturally, the 200m depth rating remains.
The 44mm SuperOcean Heritage
While Breitling previously offered 46mm versions, the new 44mm SuperOcean Heritage is now the largest in the line. It has a 52.17mm lug-to-lug measurement and a slim 12.17mm thickness. Like the rest of the new models, all of the cases are stainless steel and feature a dial-colored ceramic inlay set within a steel or 18K red gold unidirectional bezel. If I can offer my opinion on the bezel action, it’s fantastic and firmer than the somewhat loose setting on the current SuperOcean. For strap fans, the watches have 22mm straps that taper to 18mm at the clasp.
Regarding colors, the 44mm SuperOcean Heritage is available with sunray black, dark green, and dark blue dials. The last one features red gold details on the indexes, hands, bezel, and screw-in crown for €8,150 on rubber and €8,450 on mesh. The stainless models are priced at €6,100 on rubber and €6,400 on mesh. Note that previous SuperOcean Heritage two-tone models used a stainless steel crown. Inside, the watch uses the COSC-certified B31 caliber with 78 hours of power reserve. It’s visible via a screw-in stainless steel case back with a sapphire display.
42mm — a popular pick
The 42mm SuperOcean Heritage was the smallest three-hand offering last generation. It had a 51.8mm lug-to-lug and a 14.35mm thickness. The new model is vastly different, with a 49.55mm length and a mere 12.03mm profile. Those are game-changing variances.
Frankly, they make this watch wearable on a smaller wrist like mine. The watches even looked fine with 22mm straps that taper down to 18mm.
This is predicted to be the most popular model. As a result, black, dark green, and dark blue dials are available in the all-stainless format for €6,100 on rubber and €6,400 on mesh.
A black dial is also available with red gold details for €7,950 on rubber and €8,250 on mesh. Once again, the automatic B31 movement is on display via the case back.
A new 40mm size wears beautifully and brings a limited-edition model
For many, including me, a 40mm dive watch is perfect, and thankfully, there’s now a SuperOcean Heritage available for those of us with smaller wrists. The watch has a 48.2mm lug-to-lug measurement and an 11.73mm thickness. Dimensionally, it was perfect on my wrist, but it also fit my friend’s much larger wrist without looking tiny. The brand shared that it was possible to create a credible 40mm model because the B31 can fit inside the case. The 20mm strap tapers less than the wider ones, though, to 18mm at the folding clasp.
Upon first glance, it seems that Breitling is playing it carefully with this new smaller size by offering only black or dark green dials in stainless steel cases for €6,100 on rubber or €6,400 on mesh. However, there’s a surprise limited-edition piece as part of the launch.
Breitling worked with brand ambassador and surfer Kelly Slater to create a limited edition of 500 pieces. The watch is available with either a mesh bracelet or a rubber strap and has a blue dial with a leafy canopy pattern resembling the beaches of Hawaii. The opinions on this dial were split at the HQ, but we loved it in person here in London. The limited edition has a price of €6,450 on a blue rubber strap and €6,750 on the mesh bracelet.
The 36mm models are aimed at both sexes
Another nice surprise is the announcement of new 36mm SuperOcean Heritage models. With these pieces, it’s clear that Breitling wants to target men and women with the collection. It should be noted that these are the only time-only pieces using a non-manufacture movement. The Breitling caliber 10 is a lightly modified Sellita SW300 with a chronometer certification and 42 hours of power reserve. It also gives the watch a pleasing 10.42mm thickness.
We tried these on in London, and while 36mm sounds like a nice Explorer-like size, the 42.84mm length and 18mm lug spacing make them wear small. For what it’s worth, the version on the rubber strap looked larger on my wrist than the one with the mesh bracelet.
Color-wise, there are two options — dark blue and light green, both with a sunray effect. The watches are priced at €5,250 on rubber and €5,550 on mesh.
A crisp, clean 42mm SuperOcean Heritage Chronograph
Another pleasant surprise was the new 42mm SuperOcean Heritage Chronograph. The prior generation offered 44mm models with the in-house B01 movement or Sellita SW500. Now, the smaller diameter brings an added dose of wearability thanks to a 49.56mm lug-to-lug and a 14.55mm thickness. Though nearly a millimeter thinner, the watch retains its 200m water resistance rating. Like the time-only 42mm pieces, the chronograph has a 22mm strap that tapers to 18mm at the buckle.
The other large change is that the B01 movement has lost a sub-dial. It now shows running seconds and a 30-minute counter. Breitling felt that the 12-hour register looked too busy and was unnecessary for those who opt to use the watch for diving. Aesthetically and comfort-wise, we think the watch is a huge improvement. For now, the chronograph is available with a black or dark blue dial in a stainless steel case and is priced at €8,900 on rubber and €9,200 on mesh. The steel and red gold version comes with a black dial and is priced at €9,900 on a black rubber strap and €10,200 on the mesh bracelet.
Conclusions
We left our visit to the London boutique impressed by the new SuperOcean Heritage collection. It’s clear the folks at Breitling needed to update the last generation after eight years, but they knew they couldn’t change a still-popular seller too much. With thinner cases, new sizes, case-fitting straps and bracelets, and a better dial design, I think they succeeded on all accounts. Admittedly, I never liked the prior models. Something about them left me cold. However, if I were searching for a new diver with daily watch sensibilities, the new SuperOcean Heritage would be high on my list. Well done, Breitling.
