Introducing: The Smaller Seiko Presage SPB521, SPB523, And SPB524

The Seiko Presage collection is often overlooked but without good reason. I have a major soft spot for the Cocktail Time series that combines the fun of Tokyo bar culture with some seriously stylish timepieces. There’s also the relatively new Presage Classic series. It uses traditional Japanese colors, materials, and textures to develop a creative series of timepieces that celebrate the classic Seiko style. The latest additions to this lineup are a trio of 36mm models that will win fans over quickly. The Seiko Presage “Edo Silk” SPB521, SPB523, and SPB524 present a familiar silhouette in a more modest size. Let’s find out why we think these could become the next hit for Seiko.

If you think the Seiko Presage SPB521, SPB523, and SPB524 look familiar at first glance, you’re right. Seiko previously released the SPB463, SPB465, and SPB467, which presented the same aesthetic but were larger. They come in at a little over 40mm and are now joined by three new 36mm models. The great thing is that these are great alternatives for people looking for a smaller, more elegant version of the same watch. On top of that, they lose the date window at 3 o’clock, providing a nice and clean look. The trio reminds me of the classic Seiko models from the 1960s, and that is a vibe I most definitely appreciate.

The details of the Seiko Presage SPB521, SPB523, and SPB524

Let’s look at the specs of the three “Edo Silk” models to get a better idea. First, the SPB521 and SPB523 have a normal stainless steel case and bracelet, while the SPB524 receives a gold PVD treatment for a more luxurious look. All three models feature a 36mm case with a 12.5mm thickness and a 41.4mm lug-to-lug.

The watches are water resistant to 100 meters, so you do not necessarily have to take them off when jumping into the pool. Considering that these are automatic watches, they feature a nice overall profile that balances out nicely on the wrist, as we will find out in a bit.

The three models feature dials that were inspired by the classic colors of Japan’s Edo period. The SPB521 features an aijiro (pale blue) dial, the SPB523 comes with a fushi-iro (brown) gradient dial, and the gold PVD SPB524 comes with a shiro-iro (white) dial. They combine well with the round case, its polished bezel, and the characteristic conical push-pull crown.

All three dials feature applied indexes and alpha-style hands. The combination of the dials’ texture and soft colors creates a soothing aesthetic. Furthermore, Seiko has limited the text on the dial, adding to a cleaner look.

The Seiko 6R51 inside the SPB521, SPB523 and SPB524

If you turn the watch around, you will get a look at the Seiko caliber 6R51. It sits safely beneath a display case back to reveal parts of the movement, including the gold-colored rotor. This automatic caliber operates at 21,600vph, has 24 jewels, and offers 72 hours of power reserve.

Seiko regulates the movement to run within +25/-15 seconds per day. While these numbers are not spectacular, we know that Seiko movements typically run much more accurately. In terms of finishing, the brand keeps things very basic. It makes the movements decent workhorse calibers that will generally do their job adequately.

All three watches come on a seven-row bracelet with a butterfly clasp. This refined bracelet nicely rounds out each watch’s aesthetic. On top of that, it wraps itself comfortably around the wrist and feels of good quality, which makes wearing these watches a great joy.

Wearing the Seiko Presage SPB521, SPB523 and SPB524

Upon putting these watches on my wrist, I quickly found out why adding these 36mm models to the lineup was a great move for Seiko. They look brilliant and wear like a charm. On top of that, the 36mm case size makes them more wearable for wrists of various sizes.

While I can certainly pull off the larger 40.2mm models, I would pick one of these smaller 36mm versions. They eschew the date window and are just very nice-looking and comfortable watches overall.

When it comes to the different versions, the one with the light blue dial offers a clean and classic look with a cool twist. The color reminds me of the stunning light blue dials that Grand Seiko uses for its watches, which we all love.

I believe the blue-dial model will become an instant fan favorite. The gradient brown dial, however, is my top pick. While I am not necessarily a big fan of the gradient, I like the dial’s soft shade of brown. It gives the watch a nice vintage feel that I like quite a bit. The PVD-treated model is for people who love the luxurious look of a gold watch.

Final thoughts on the Seiko Presage SPB521, SPB523, and SPB524

Overall, I think Seiko made the right move by introducing smaller 36mm versions of these Presage models. The Classic series offers affordable watches that bring back the distinct Seiko style from the 1960s and ’70s that watch fans love.

That’s why I think this series has great potential to become a hit. With a price of €990 for the stainless steel SPB521 and SPB523 or €1,050 for the gold PVD SPB524, these watches are a great option for a stylish daily wearer around €1,000.

The comfortable bracelets and 100m water resistance make them great for everyday use. Alternatively, swapping the bracelet for a nice leather strap gives you a stylish, more formal timepiece. This makes these three Presage watches versatile additions to the lineup. They will be available starting in June 2025.

I’m sure that many will jump at the opportunity to get a watch that celebrates the classic Seiko style and combines it with modern-day production standards. Let us know what you think of them in the comments!