My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial

Choosing my favorite Datejust wasn’t a simple exercise. From 2021 through most of 2023, I acquired several vintage references. Each one was chosen for a reason. Hard-to-find dials combined with sharp cases and atypical bezels were my game. Two years later, these Datejust models remain as regular options in my wearing rotation. They’re fantastic, fit beautifully, and run like diesel tractors. But there’s one model that edges out the rest, and that’s the 1601 no-lume lavender dial.

Nearly two years ago, I wrote a thorough accounting of the Rolex Datejust 1601 I purchased from Wind Vintage. The watch was almost a missed opportunity, but luck stepped in at the end. Still, I covered that portion along with the condition of the watch and the dial’s lovely hue. So, what can I write about today? Well, I’ve worn the watch relatively often since 2023, and I’ve come to appreciate its beauty even more. Oh, and Charlie Dunne from Wind Vintage sent a nice piece of evidence regarding these lavender dials that I’ll be happy to share.

A recap: the 1601 no-lume lavender dial

I’m a regular watcher of the Wind Vintage site. Eric and Charlie are constantly adding new pieces, and even if I cannot afford most of them, it’s fun to look at stunning examples of rare and/or desirable models. It was early 2023, and our family was looking forward to our annual Easter trip to South Florida. In the background, I had been following several watches in preparation for a side visit to see Eric. The 1601 no-lume lavender dial was a curious piece. I had heard of these dials, but I hadn’t done much research on them.

Image: Wind Vintage

Fast-forward to my visit, and Eric brought out a pile of cool things to try on for size. Curiously, the 1601 wasn’t among them. I asked, and to my surprise, after what felt like months of sitting on the site, the watch had sold the night before. Still, he brought out the watch, and I was immediately taken with it. Wind Vintage posts consistent photos, but the piece was different in the metal. The dial was warmer and showed stronger hints of lavender in person. Plus, the condition was unreal for a watch that left the factory in 1971. I left with the proviso that I’d happily buy the 1601 if the buyer decided to negate the purchase. Less than a week later, fortune smiled on me, and the watch was mine.

So far, two years of uniqueness

Let’s be honest, most vintage Rolex watches are not uncommon. Go to any big city vintage watch shop, watch an auction, or head to a get-together, and there’s a good chance that Rolex is the most typical sight. Therefore, when seasoned Rolex collectors stop and look twice at the 1601 no-lume lavender Datejust, you begin to realize that it’s relatively unique.

Openly, I didn’t buy this 1601 for attention-grabbing purposes, but I did buy it because it’s so different. Rolex offered lovely blue dials on its Datejust models, but the bulk of the options were relatively subdued. Black, gray, silver, and white are the normal fare. They’re lovely, but a lighter shade of purple? Now that’s wild!

Myths versus reality

Many, including myself, were under the impression that these dials began life as gray or silver and that time had altered the hue. However, seeing one in person reveals a tone so consistent and clean that the usual age spots or edge color differences found in a heavily aged dial do not exist. Plus, on the no-lume lavender version I own, there’s no tritium to alter the paint. But rather than continuing to comment on this anecdotal evidence, let’s share something more resolute.

1972 Rolex Japan Catalog

Charlie Dunne, the tenacious researcher that he is, shared a screenshot of a 1972 Rolex Japan catalog. Here, we can see various dial colors, and lavender is a clear option. It’s interesting because in this catalog shot, the photo shows a luminous version. Mine is without, which was typical for the Japanese market due to import restrictions on radioactive material. Still, we now have proof of factory production of these uniquely colored dials.

Other reasons why this 1601 no-lume lavender dial is my favorite Datejust

A beautifully preserved dial is just part of the reason why this watch is my favorite Datejust. Other factors, such as the fact that this watch is virtually untouched, allow us to see what the watch would have looked like almost 55 years ago. The case is lovely with its slim, yet sturdy lugs, and the 18K white gold fluted bezel is amazingly crisp. Then there’s the Gay Freres-built 6251 Jubilee bracelet. In the last two years, I still maintain that it’s the most comfortable bracelet ever created. Once again, this example is minty and gives us a feel for what it was like to walk into a Rolex AD during the 70s and try on a Datejust.

On the wrist, the 36mm feels like a natural extension. It’s light without being rattly, and classy without looking stuffy. It’s an awesome watch for all environments, too. I brought it to the Keys in Florida, and the pastel dial was perfect for dinners and drinks on the water. With formal wear, the dial shines next to a light blue dress shirt. Best of all, while it’s a Datejust, it’s nowhere near as blingy or nouveau riche-looking as the hordes of modern 41mm models I see everywhere now.

Parting thoughts

For 80 years, the Datejust has stood as a flagship model for Rolex. It introduced impressive innovations, and even modern versions remained quite close to the original models in spirit. For my tastes, though, the 16xx series strikes the perfect balance between old and new enough to carry out daily duties. Sure, the lack of a quick set date is somewhat annoying, but it ensures that the watches will be worn. This small niggle can’t overcome the perfect balance and wearability of the 1601. Adding a detail, such as the no-lume lavender dial, simply elevates it to best-in-class status. Well, for me at least…