New Dials For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar And MB&F LM Perpetual EVO

Smoked salmon and icy blue freshen up the faces of these two very different perpetual calendars

February 28, 2024

comments 3

Sometimes, adding a dial color can shine a new light on a watch. Both H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have done just that. That’s why we’ll unpack both releases in one article. The first is the much-praised H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, and the second is the stunning MB&F LM Perpetual Evo. It’s time to take a closer look at the new dials and be reminded of the horological excellence of both timepieces. One shines in its most minimalist form, while the other is a visual statement of technical wizardry.

In today’s watch landscape, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F are well known for pushing both technical and visual boundaries. These two new dial additions give us a great view of the visual design differences, even if the watches are both perpetual calendars. The first is an ultra-minimalist version of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. The second is a titanium addition to the wonderful MB&F LM Perpetual Evo. Both show exactly what makes these brands so popular with watch fans.

The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Collection

Let’s start with the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon. Most of you will be somewhat familiar with the Streamliner collection. The design stood out immediately when the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph was introduced in 2020. As Balazs explained, the watch’s design started with the creation of the bracelet. If you have ever worn a Streamliner, you will know that the bracelet is majestic in design, execution, and comfort. Combined with the cushion-shaped case, that funky ’70s design was the talk of town four years ago. But the Streamliner that truly landed in the hearts of most Fratello team members was the brilliant Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green. It was a perfect display of the strength of the Streamliner in its simplest horological form.

Then, last year, we saw the Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon. As I explained in my introduction article, it was the perfect follow-up to the green-dial version. On top of that, it was fun to read how H. Moser & Cie. playfully poked fun at the salmon-dial phenomenon. The brand returns with a new “Smoked Salmon” model almost one year later. This time, it’s a Concept version of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. The first version of that model debuted in 2021, and I had the chance to try it out for some time and was deeply impressed.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon

So, is this new model a simple combination of both? Well, it’s close but not exactly. As some of you will know, Moser’s Concept pieces feature minimalist dials to display the brilliance of the craftsmanship that went into creating them. In this case, the dial does away with the red and white minute scale, applied hour markers, power reserve gauge at 10 o’clock, and brand logo. As a result, the dial’s color takes center stage. The only element still on the dial is the date window at 4 o’clock. All the other functions are still there, but they blend in significantly thanks to the absence of markers and indicators.

H. Moser & Cie. has played a big part in popularizing fumé or gradient dials over the last few years. The Smoked Salmon dial is another beautiful take on this style. It starts as a beautiful light brown in the middle and slowly becomes darker, eventually fading to black towards the dial’s periphery. The dial also features a vertically brushed griffé finish. Fumé dials with a griffé finish are strictly for Moser’s special editions. The visual brilliance of the dial is striking, and different lighting conditions will bring it to life with stunning effects.

The elements of the perpetual calendar

While the different elements of the perpetual calendar are still there, they present themselves in a more abstract form. As mentioned, the date window at 4 o’clock is the only element that jumps out. As you can see, the crown is also in the same position, ensuring they align nicely. Centrally mounted, you will find four hands. The hour and minute hands feature luminous Globolight inserts and are some of my favorites in the entire watch industry. Above them, you’ll find a thin seconds hand, and looking closely, you will also see the small red and white hand below them that indicates the months.

The fifth hand you see is at 10 o’clock, and this one (usually) indicates the power reserve. However, since the design removes the gauge, seeing how much is left of the impressive 168-hour power reserve is now a bit of a guessing game. And just as on the regular model from 2021, the indicator for the leap year is visible if you turn the watch around. It is placed on the majestic hand-wound HMC 812 manufacture caliber, which operates at 18,000vph. The double-barrel construction makes the 168-hour power reserve possible, and the movement features an in-house hairspring.

Final thoughts on the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon

The movement sits inside the 42.3mm stainless steel case, which measures 11mm thick, excluding the subtly domed box-style sapphire crystal. This case is water resistant to 120 meters and connects beautifully with the integrated bracelet. Both the case and bracelet feature a predominantly brushed finish. As a result, their polished accents stand out immediately and give the presence more depth and dramatic effect. The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon is a nice minimalist version of the regular model. It will only be available for 12 months for CHF 49,900 (including tax).

I prefer the regular version of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar because I adore that special minute track. I have talked about it multiple times before, but for me, it is an essential part of the Streamliner’s beauty, along with the case, bracelet, hands, and dial. The sum of all those parts makes it such a special line of watches. That said, putting this special dial in the spotlight makes sense. It shows the craftsmanship of the brand’s fumé and griffé finishes perfectly. On top of that, it emphasizes the brilliance of the Streamliner’s design.

The story of the MB&F LM Perpetual EVO

The story of the MB&F LM Perpetual EVO starts in 2020. That’s when the brand released three zirconium Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO models. Fifteen of each were available and featured different dial-plate colors, including Atomic Orange, which was new for the brand. MB&F followed those up a year later with a titanium version that Thor covered here. He put it on his list of unattainable grails if only for its raison d’etre. It would be easy to think that three years later, it still is as interesting as it was in 2021. At first glance, I like this new addition even better than the previous versions. It looks crisp with its ice-blue dial plate and white strap.

But let’s start at the beginning. Like its predecessor, the new Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO has a Grade 5 titanium case measuring 44mm in diameter and 17.5mm thick. The heavily domed sapphire crystal is directly fused with the case because there is no bezel. This ensures a perfect view of the movement, the dial plate, and the elements of the perpetual calendar. The round case features a screw-down crown on the right side plus two double-sprung oblong actuators that allow you to adjust the calendar functions. A new element is what MB&F calls the FlexRing. This stainless steel cone-shaped dampener is fitted between the case and the movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.

The new light blue dial plate of the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO

The new visual novelty is the light blue CVD color of the dial plate. It is the perfect backdrop for the darker calendar rings and the polished V-shaped bridge that holds the 14mm balance wheel. If we let our eyes go around the dial, we will find the hours and minutes in a separate black sub-dial with light blue markers and lume-filled hands at 12. The day indicator sits at 3 o’clock, the month indicator at 6 o’clock, and the date indicator at 9 o’clock. All of them use a black galvanic ring with light blue markings. To the left of the sub-dial at 6 o’clock, we find the retrograde indicator for the leap year, with another for the power reserve on the right side.

At first glance, it’s a lot to take in. But look again, and you’ll see that all the elements are fairly easy to read. Furthermore, the layout provides a nice view of Stephen McDonnell’s revolutionary movement. The Northern Irish mastermind created this perpetual calendar for MB&F’s 2015 Legacy Machine Perpetual. The 581-part technical marvel relies on a mechanical processor consisting of superimposed discs. This processor takes a default number of 28 days per month (as all months have at least 28 days) and adds the right number of extra days for each one. It ensures that all the individual months are displayed correctly and prevents the date from jumping incorrectly.

Something as simple as color plays a pivotal role

If you turn the watch around, you will see the escapement and the double-barrel construction that provides the movement with 72 hours of power reserve. Additionally, you will see that the movement is finished beautifully. But the most fun is found on the front side of the watch.

This watch comes fitted with a white rubber strap with a titanium pin buckle, and the combination with the icy blue dial makes for a crisp new version of the LM Perpetual EVO. It replaces the previous titanium version, which had a green dial plate. And I have to say, I like this one better. While it is as simple as a color change, it plays a big part in loving this timepiece.

And if you’re going to spend the €176,000 that this watch costs (before taxes), the right color is pivotal in pulling out your credit card. Compared to the previous zirconium and titanium models, I like this new version the best. There is something upbeat and almost summery about its presence that I greatly appreciate. It is the perfect canvas for Stephen McDonnell’s wonderful creation.

For more information on the latest Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, visit the official MB&F website. Likewise, check the official H. Moser & Cie. website to learn more about the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon. In the comments section, let us know which of these two models is your favorite. We would love to know which of these two timepieces you would spend your money on if you could.