Introducing a new color to an existing watch and calling it “brand new” is one of the oldest tricks in the book. However, when a brand like Serica comes up with a new color, you know you’re in for a treat. Because the French brand is still relatively young, it’s hungry to come up with inventive ways to create original designs. And that’s exactly why this “Desert Red” version of the 8315-2 GMT Chronomètre feels like more than a simple change of color.

Just over a year ago, Serica introduced the third reference to its lineup, the 8315. It was a black and white GMT watch with, of course, strong vintage vibes and a quirky asymmetrical 24-hour bezel insert. Both the lollipop GMT hand and the peculiar layout of the GMT bezel stirred some discussion in the Fratello office. But, as Jorg already explained in his introduction article, these are things that you can easily adjust to and that make a lot of sense once you understand the thinking behind them. The 8315-2 is indeed “just another colorway” of the 8315. However, some smaller and bigger tweaks to the overall design make it feel like a bigger deal than just that. Let’s take a look.

Serica 8315-2 GMT Chronomètre pocket shot

Serica 8315-2 GMT Chronomètre — Strong vintage appeal with tropical vibes

The great thing about Serica is that it’s a watch brand that’s still in development. Jérôme Burgert, Serica’s founder, wants to create something that has a certain vintage allure but also includes some contemporary innovations. You could say that this new 8315-2 is the ultimate example of that vision. Burgert says that the “Desert Red” color scheme should remind you of the sandstone and red dunes of the Sahara. However, in person, it looks more like a perfect representation of the much-loved tropical dials found in well-worn watches of yesteryear.

Serica 8315-2 GMT Chronomètre

Marketing-wise, it’s probably not so easy to sell something called “brown,” so that’s probably why he called it “Desert Red.” But when you see the watch on the wrist, the color on the strap, bezel, and dial is definitely more brown than it is red. There’s nothing wrong with that, but I thought you should know upfront. Anyway, Serica wouldn’t be Serica if the brown tones on the rubber strap, ceramic bezel, and matte dial perfectly matched each other. Do you know how sometimes a slight color difference on a watch can totally ruin the overall design? Well, that’s certainly not the case here.

Serica 8315-2 GMT Chronomètre dial close-up

Same layout, new color, and gilt-tone accents

When it comes to the layout of the bezel and dial, nothing has changed from the first version of the 8315. The rectangular hour markers are still there at every quarter, and the other lume dots are still placed ever so slightly inward. However, instead of a white outline, the hour markers now have a gilt-tone (gold) outline. Also, the text at 6 o’clock is now printed in gold instead of white. I must say, it matches very well with both the matte brown dial and the slight faux-patina color of the lume on the dial and white arrow hands.

The bezel is made of a single piece of ceramic, so there are no seams between the white and brown portions. And, on this new 8315-2, Serica is debuting its very own signature strap made of FKM rubber, which comes complete with the updated and signed pin buckle. When you see the strap from afar, you almost think it’s another pigskin leather strap, just like the one on the original 8315. It’s just as supple and attractive as that strap, but it’s also a lot more weather-resistant. I have to give kudos to Serica for achieving exactly the right mix of vintage vibes and wearability.

Serica 8315-2 GMT Chronomètre with end links

Optional lug-gap grills

Now that we’re talking about that strap, we have to discuss the engraved end links. My original name for them would be “lug-gap grills,” like those grills that rappers (used to?) wear over their teeth. They’re something I’ve never seen on any watch before. Now, I know you’re probably thinking, “Some leather straps for Rolex watches have end links too!” What makes these different, though, is that they stay in place simply due to the pressure from both the case and the strap. This means you can choose to use them or not. And because their not connected to the strap in any way, they also work with any other 20mm strap you have lying around the house.

I think it’s an ingenious way of replicating the feeling of having an integrated strap without any of the burdens of one. I’ve also tried putting them on my Serica 5303-3 diver. Although they didn’t fit the watch perfectly due to its slightly thinner mid-case, they did give it a completely different look. I still don’t know if I like them or not, but they certainly are an original and inventive design feature. And if you do like them, don’t worry. Jérôme told us that these grills will become available for other references in the Serica collection too.

Specs and movement

For those who aren’t yet familiar with Serica’s 8315, let me quickly go over the specs. The watch comes in at 39mm wide and 13.2mm thick. Those dimensions, together with a modest 46.5mm lug-to-lug span, make it a very wearable watch. The movement inside comes courtesy of Soprod, and it’s the automatic C125. This caliber is a so-called “caller GMT,” meaning that the 24-hour hand is independently adjustable. The movement features 23 jewels, runs at a 28,800vph frequency, and has a 42-hour power reserve. It’s also good to know that it has been certified by COSC as a chronometer. Therefore, you can almost be certain that it’ll run somewhere between +6 and -4 seconds a day.

Serica 8315-2 GMT Chronomètre lifestyle

Something to get excited about

For me, the Desert Red 8315-2 takes the vintage-inspired theme a bit too far. I prefer the black-and-white look of the original. That said, if you’re into the tropical aesthetic, then I don’t think there’s a better modern example out there than the new Serica 8315-2. As mentioned, the colors all work harmoniously together, and the new brown rubber strap perfectly complements the watch’s appearance. Plus, the optional lug-gap grills allow you to play around with the look of your watch and straps.

It’s small additions like those grills that get me excited as a watch enthusiast. I’m very much looking forward to seeing what else Jérôme is cooking up in the Serica kitchen. He’s pretty much got the “sports watch” category covered now. There’s the recently introduced 6190 field watch, the 5303 diver, and the 8315 GMT Chronomètre. I guess there’s still room for a nice dress watch in there, and who knows what else? Whatever it may be, I can’t wait to see what inventive design quirks and add-ons Jérôme comes up with.

Serica 8315-2 GMT Chronomètre on wrist

Available now

The Serica 8315-2 GMT Chronomètre is available for pre-order now for €1,890 (including taxes). The engraved end links (or lug-gap grills) are a €100 option. For more information, please check out the official Serica website.

What do you think of the Serica 8315-2 GMT Chronomètre? Would you go for this new colorway, and how do you like those grills? Let me know in the comments below.

Watch specifications

GMT Chronomètre
Desert Red (matte brown) with beige Super-LumiNova indices, gold printing, and white luminous arrow hands
Case Material
Stainless steel
Case Dimensions
39mm (diameter) × 46.5mm (lug-to-lug) × 12.3mm (thickness)
Domed sapphire
Case Back
Stainless steel, screw-in
Soprod C125 — automatic "caller GMT" with hand-winding, 28,800vph frequency, 42-hour power reserve, 23 jewels, COSC-certified chronometer
Water Resistance
200m (20 ATM)
Brown FKM rubber (20/14mm) with stainless steel pin buckle. Engraved end links available as an add-on for €100.
Time (hours, minutes, central seconds, 24-hour GMT hand and bezel)
€1,890 (including taxes)
Two years