Not Another Indie: How Armin Strom Stands Out in a Crowded Playing Field
I’ve written several articles about Armin Strom. From normal reviews to a closer look at the brand’s resonance calibers, it’s fun to take a closer look at this brand. But why is that? In my view, the brand stands out among other haute horlogerie brands for several reasons. The watches seamlessly combine technical chops in wearable sizes.
Armin Strom creates impressive movements, including their Resonance line. However, they’ve also created recognizable traits such as the hallmark finger bridges. The small company also places a strong emphasis on hand-finishing and in-house production. In most cases, the watches are over 90% created at the brand’s headquarters in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland. This differs heavily from the brand’s competition. Let’s also remember that Armin Strom prices its watches with value in mind. The prices aren’t inexpensive, but for watches with these aesthetics, it’s challenging to find another haute horlogerie brand that can compete at these levels. It’s no wonder that collectors are catching on and adding the pieces to their collections. With this in mind, let’s look at some newer releases that help the brand stand out in a crowded field.
The Gravity Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue — an emphasis on details without looking crowded
Armin Strom’s Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue is the latest addition to the brand’s popular line of watches. The 41mm stainless steel piece displays a unique aesthetic with amazing levels of detail. Yet, the dial avoids looking too crowded or overrun with needless design flourishes. The watch comes on a matching nubuck leather strap and has a depth resistance of 30 meters.
First and foremost, three rhodium-plated finger bridges adorn the right side of the dial. The upper bridge connects to the movement’s micro-rotor, while the lower is attached to the namesake equal force barrel. This technical presentation works beautifully with a sapphire blue PVD guilloché surface created by none other than Kari Voutilainen. An asymmetrically placed open-worked dial is made of sapphire, which exposes the underlying movement.
The ASB19 automatic
The movement inside the Sapphire Blue is the brand’s in-house ASB19. This micro-rotor automatic has 72 hours of power reserve and features a stop-work mechanism with a Geneva cross in the barrel. Armin Strom states that the Equal Force Barrel mechanism ensures that equal amounts of power are delivered to the balance throughout the entire power reserve. Furthermore, black polishing, perlage, Geneva stripes, and circular graining are all added by the company’s artisans in Biel. At CHF 27,500, the latest Gravity Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue easily stands out in a crowded field of competitors. Plus, with just 25 available each year, it’s sure to remain exclusive.
The System 78 Orbit Ice Blue and Lime Green
Armin Strom has added two new models to its System 78 Orbit collection. Ice Blue and Lime Green references are now available in a 43.4mm by 44.35mm case with a thickness of just 12.6mm. Each piece comes with a stainless steel bracelet and has a water resistance rating of 50 meters.
While these watches have a familial resemblance to the previous Gravity Force Ultimate release, the System 78 Orbit comes with a unique party trick. The date function, which on first glance looks like a chronograph or GMT complication, sets the watches apart in this otherwise crowded field. The fixed black ceramic bezel is numbered from one to thirty-one. Pushing the button at ten o’clock snaps the centrally mounted and arrow-tipped hand to the correct date. Depressing it again returns the hand to twelve o’clock. Keen eyes will note the column wheel above the dial, which leads to the silky smooth operation of this function.
Gradient dials and the ASS20 caliber
Each watch contains a gradient dial that approaches black towards the edges. The color is displayed on a stylized Armin Strom logo, acting as the date arrow’s tip. Otherwise, the dial also contains three rhodium-plated finger bridges. Inside, the movement uses the brand’s ASS20 caliber. It’s a relative of the prior ASB19, which means that it also uses a micro-rotor and boasts 72 hours of power reserve. Also, the Equal Force Barrel is present here.
Limited production in each color
Armin Strom is producing just 20 of each of the System 78 Orbit models in Ice Blue and Lime Green. The price of CHF 36,000 is admittedly dearer than the non-complicated Sapphire Blue piece we looked at earlier. The in-house date complication and the bracelet are the likely culprits. Still, if this larger diameter, albeit short length, watch fits your wrist, it will look highly unique among the crowded sea of large brand usual suspects.
Parting thoughts
In the past, modern style haute horlogerie watches weren’t really my wheelhouse. Perhaps seeing enough different styles has allowed me to develop an appreciation for them over time. Yet, I still enjoy semblances of traditional watchmaking in any of my pieces from a design perspective. This is where Armin Strom separates itself from most other brands. The watches blend in-house innovation with modern details, but they include enough classic details to attract a classic watch collector. The hand-finished movements and the guilloché or fumé dial surfaces all work well on these decidedly modern watches. As I’ve stated before, if you haven’t tried on an Armin Strom, it’s worth your time.