https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-1960s-alpina-10-seastrong-from-swedish-diving-pioneer/

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Mike Shops For Vintage Skin Divers

Loads of variety and value in this space

July 03, 2023

comments 11

Welcome to another edition of Pre-Owned Spotlight. This week, we focus on a genre that has become very popular with new watch buyers, but we’ll use the opportunity to go back in time. We’ll take a look at several vintage skin divers that are available for sale, and while prices have increased over the years, there’s still great value to be had.

Skin divers are an interesting category. Seemingly, these watches were born out of the growing interest in recreational diving during the early 1960s. They were made for diving but were sold at lower prices than the serious pieces from companies like Rolex, Omega, Blancpain, and others. As a result, the water resistance ratings usually topped out at 200 meters. Another calling card of these watches was their angular, slab-sided cases. As far as brands that sold these types of watches, the list is nearly endless. There are loads of differently branded pieces that contain similar hands, dials, and bezels. There are unique pieces, watches with manual and automatic movements, and even a variety of raw materials.

Skin divers are hot

These days, skin divers are hot in both vintage form and new watch showcases. Brands such as Seiko, Wolbrook, Glashütte Original, Airain, Alsta, and Aquastar are just some of the companies that are successfully selling new versions of these watches. Clearly, this iconic case shape still has the ability to bring in new customers. Today, though, we will shift to looking at some vintage models that are for sale. As you’ll see, I’ve decided to go with a wide range here in terms of branding and pricing just to give a flavor of the variety that exists. Enjoy!

Image: onebrand2019 (eBay)

Aquastar 63 — one of my favorite skin divers

When I think of skin divers, my mind immediately turns to Aquastar. The Model 63 is one of the earlier uses of the case shape we all know and love and sports some distinctive looks. Notably, it has an internal rotating bezel that is operated via the crown. This is a known trouble spot, so be sure to ask if it’s working before buying. The other thing I like about these watches (and most Aquastar models from the period) is that the dials show serious aging. Whether it was moisture or time at work, these pieces now have loads of character that may interest you or not.

Image: onebrand2019 (eBay)

The watch I have found resides on eBay from a seller in Albania. This model happens to be a Duward co-branded piece (there were other names too) and looks to be in decent shape. It has just been serviced, but there’s no mention of the bezel functionality. Yes, the dial lume has gone dark, but the dial itself looks nice. I love the polished 37.5mm cases on these, the signed crowns, and the wonderful case backs. For US$599, if everything is working, this feels like a nice watch — but I’d replace the bracelet with a Tropic strap.

Image: Chrono24

Seiko 62MAS — a Japanese skin diver

People tend to forget that both Seiko and Citizen made skin divers in the mid-’60s. Citizen had its Auto Dater, which is now a very rare and valuable watch. Seiko, on the other hand, created the more popular 62MAS, which had a longer production period. In recent years, the Seiko models went from being $1,500 all day long to more than double that figure. It can be challenging to find good examples of these due to replacement parts, polishing, and all the typical things that plague more desirable vintage watches.

Image: Chrono24

Today, I think I’ve found an interesting example at a relatively approachable price. This late model from 1967 on Chrono24 is short on descriptions aside from saying it’s a one-owner heirloom. I’d inquire further about running condition and provenance. To its benefit, this watch has what seems to be the original Tropic strap with a Seiko buckle and a very clean case back. The dial and hands look original with acceptable “wabi” on the lume. The bezel is missing its lume pip, but that’s not a big deal for me. The case looks great and sharp too. For US$3,495, this isn’t small money, but it’s also quite a bit less than most of the other watches listed.

Image: Cavalieri Jewelry & Watch (Chrono24)

Ollech & Wajs Astro Chron — more than a plain-Jane diver

Yes, skin divers were made in all sorts of forms, including chronographs. Aquastar, Rotary, and Le Phare were some of the makers, but I am partial to these Ollech & Wajs Astro Chron models. The company debuted in 1955 and has a relatively illustrious past. From the first mail-order Swiss watch brand to heading into space on the wrists of NASA astronauts, it’s a neat brand. Ollech & Wajs also returned in 2017 and is currently making watches with skin-diver cases.

Image: Cavalieri Jewelry & Watch (Chrono24)

The Astro Chron I found today is on Chrono24 and is being sold by an American dealer. There were many versions of this watch, but what I like about this one is that it features the column-wheel-equipped Valjoux 72. It also has a rotating bezel with an acrylic insert, loads of lume on the dial, and a nicely colored 30-minute counter. The case looks sharp to me, and at 38.5mm, it should have a lot of presence on the wrist. For US$3,100, this is also a pricey piece, but it has a lot going for it in terms of brand, movement, and design.

Image: goodngood (eBay)

Helbros Swordfish — a blue beauty

The last of our pre-owned skin divers comes from a once-popular brand by the name of Helbros. This was a US-based brand making affordable watches that was founded back in 1919. Per this article, Helbros was purchased by another old-line American brand, Elgin, in 1963. Soon after, the Quartz Crisis managed to end both brands. Still, there are some gems for us to find.

Image: goodngood (eBay)

The Helbros Swordfish, per an interesting post on Omega Forums, once retailed for $87.50 with an A. Schild automatic movmeent and even came with a “He-Man” steel bracelet (ha!). An interesting aside is that the same watch was available for $20 less in manual-wind form. I’ve found one of these on eBay out of Australia, and the seller is looking for AU$950. The 37mm stainless watch looks superb and features an hour hand with a great shape. Plus, there’s that lovely blue dial and wildly wide “Cyclops” over the day and date window. Oh, and drilled lug holes, anyone? I did look at the case back, and it is stamped “West Germany,” whereas the dial shows Swiss. I checked out a few photographs online, and it seems that Elgin may have moved production during this period. Finally, a peek inside keeps things correct with an Elgin-signed rotor.

Final thoughts on skin divers

A quick search on eBay or Chrono24 for “skin diver watch” or “vintage skin diver watch” will turn up an unfathomable amount of choices. Prices are truly all over the map, with some pieces available for just a few hundred US dollars. Often, the dial conditions for these watches are rotten due to their use case. Skin divers weren’t expensive from the beginning and were meant to be used. This also results in a lot of incorrect hands and other parts. In the end, though, if you find one you like and it’s reasonable in your eyes, then go for it! The skin diver case has true staying power as evidenced by the number of modern companies making them today. If you’ve never had one in your collection, maybe it’s time.

Home
Watch Brands
Airain
Alsta
Aquastar
Glashütte Original
Seiko
Wolbrook
Pre-Owned Spotlight: Mike Shops For Vintage Skin Divers

Read next latest →

Atelier Wen Makes Watches In Geneva And Shows Off Tantalum

Michael Stockton

One Man’s Ongoing Quest To Find His Long-Lost Rolex Submariner

Harry Zwartz

Do We Set Ourselves Up For Disappointment Going Into Events Like Watches And Wonders?

Thomas Van Straaten

11 Comments

Leave a comment... Join the conversation

Post with fratello account
Login

Don't have an account yet?
Create one here, it'll only take 20 seconds

Hubertje says:

Jul 03, 2023 at 08:10

Vintage divers, like chronos and dress watches, used to look more balanced than their modern counterparts, to my eyes.
Hence I assume, the revival of vintage inspired pieces.

I sometimes wonder, could you do an article on the quality and longevity of old vs new? Contrary to what brands want us to believe, my watchmaker says he prefers old movements to new ones. Because they were made as a tool, he says the quality of the materials used is higher and wear much slower. He said that with proper care, your grandfathers watch should tick on for far longer than the one you buy now.
Is that true?

Reply
1. AK
  Alexy says:
  
  Jul 03, 2023 at 16:54
  
  If you put your hand on your heart, you have to honestly say yes. When my grandfather (not a watchmaker, but a person who understands watches) in the mid-70s gave me his watch from the early 50s, he said that they don’t make such watches now. I fully appreciated his words only now, when I myself became a grandfather. When I brought my watchmaker cheap Seiko 5 from the mid-80s a couple of years ago, he looked, shook his head respectfully and said that now you will not see metal of this quality in movements. He meant the mechanisms of modern watches. And for mechanical watches, the quality of the metal is the main thing. According to my observations, they do a lot of things dishonestly, carelessly, but at the same time they take more money than in former times. Often they just fool people. It will not be easy for the authors to write an article about the quality and durability of old and new watches, as you suggest, in the part that we do not know the durability of modern watches. But judging by the quality, it will definitely be smaller than the watches of our grandfathers that we wear today and buy as vintage.
  
  Reply
  1. AK
    Alexy says:
    
    Jul 04, 2023 at 18:57
    
    I just wanted to add that the essence of the process was brilliantly expressed by one of the fratellos (in a comment in 2022) Oldisbest: “I suspect watch collecters in 70 years are going to find the pool of watches from now far less inspiring than the pool from the 40’s to the 70’s available now”.
    
    Reply
TheK33 says:

Jul 03, 2023 at 09:45

Hi Mike. Thanks for the article. I would love to see a detailed longer article on the Ollech & Wajs Astro Chron, please.

Reply
jh
James H says:

Jul 03, 2023 at 11:49

Some great, unusual picks there – not seen that OW before (and why was it that diving chronographs died out?!). But it’s a shallow dive (how appropriate for ‘Skin Divers..’) that doesn’t raise either a Seamaster 300, Bathyscaphe or Seawolf! Not wishing to yo-yo your surface interval, perhaps you can plunge back to visit these daddies of the genre. The Bathy in particular seems most cryptic – Blancpain play it down in their history relative to big bro Fiddy and then Seiko went and wholesale nicked its design for the MAS.

Reply
1. Simonster says:
  
  Jul 03, 2023 at 20:15
  
  Agree. And if you are talking skindivers and Seamaster, you‘ve got to say „Seamaster 120“ too, which was marketed exactly as such. Very basic, very slim, and the aluminum bezel fades to an oh so lovely ghost grey.
  
  Reply
  1. Enuona says:
    
    Jul 04, 2023 at 10:46
    
    Read an article about bars and meters the other day, the author explaining it all to his audience. The only thing I got out of it, is that the author has never been diving.
    
    A good new 300m wr diver is highly likely technically better for diving than the classic ones, but everyone seems to forget that the “pioneers” actually was dived with and that they were doing just fine. Higher specs legitimise higher prices, and provides higher margins as it hardly cost that much extra to manufacture them.
    
    Skindivers would do just fine for Padi OW (18m) and Padi Advanced OW (30m) given that they keep what’s promised in wr.
    
    The drawback with skindivers is typically a skinny bezel a bit harder to operate with gloves, but a fat case is basicly only required if the movement is fat. The prebond 38,5 (40mm) was less than 9mm thick and had a “sunken” caseback too, and was doing just fine at 31,5 m which was the deepest I took it.
    
    A skin diver likely has a curved “sapphire” and curved is stronger than flat for the same thickness and material, whereas a modern diver has flat but thicker sapphire of stronger materials, and they likely have a “bulged” caseback which makes it handle pressure better.
    
    One of the reasons it is made that way is to handle more pressure, but that additional thickness and pressure resistance isn’t needed for the casual OW/AOW diver. Thus it just adds bulk and presence.
    
    Back to bezels, a thicker bezel will provide better grip than a slim one, and proper serrating/patterns will add to the grip.
    
    Given that the watch can handle the pressure it promises, limitations in diving capability has more to do with divewatches being made nice. Bidirectional bezel in some cases, Colour choices, polish, dial patterns, indices, hands and lume. It is required for the brands to stand out and for the watches being used outside the scope. These added qualities typically don’t add diving capability, quite the contrary, it just makes them look good,
    
    Given that the skindivers keeps their dive features and their promised wr, they should do just fine for the “typical dive”. Mind you, the sapphire thickness and material needs to be more solid/thicker with increased light opening, and it makes sense to shrink the diameter a bit – more aligned with classical diver sizes.
    
    Although not skindivers, Blancpain set very sensible definitions for divers back in 1953, probably best described by the chosen name fifty fathoms. Fathoms were the typical measurements for depth in nautical charts back then and is connected to the nautical mile and the circumference of equator. 50 fathoms = 50x 1,852 m = 92,6 m/300 feet. Give and take, that still makes a lot of sense for a divers watch, but Blancpain delivered 300m/1000ft in 1958.
    
    Not sure where it is placed ws the competition but Bathyscape was made because Blancpain understood that the professional divers were too big for women and men in daily use, thus they were 35 and 38 mm as opposed to the 40,3 and 41 fifty fathoms. I’d say skindivers have benefited way more from technical evolution/revolution than proper divers, and within AOW they should be just fine any day of the year. Not that many that need that much more.
    
    I’d argue that the early Seamaster divers relates way more to Bathyscape than fifty fathoms but they have diverted somewhat in the direction of fifty fathoms whilst trying to keep dimensions down. My personal opinion is that they should have stuck to the original concept. As it is now, those are neither fish nor game. If they left the “proper diver” stuff to Planet Ocean 600 and made that one more of a proper diver, and turned the Seamaster 300M back to Bathyscape terrain, they could have made brilliant watches in in both categories, yet the Seamaster would have been technically capable for most divers, no need to go beyond the original fifty fathoms in capability, and that can be done with slimmer watches today.
    
    To me, that’s the main reason for modern Seamasters not being that well regarded. They made it a limbo watch.
    
    Reply
JM
John says:

Jul 03, 2023 at 21:35

Another great looking watch along the same lines is the Accutron Deep Sea 666 Feet. Mine’s from 1970. A couple years ago I paid $300 for the watch, then had my watchmaker (who happened to be a former Accutron dealer) do a complete service. I wore it recently on a three week camping trip to Newfoundland. It rained all but three days on the trip and performed flawlessly.

Reply
Enuona says:

Jul 04, 2023 at 11:01

I really like how the base concepts from “the pioneering years” still hold their own after so many years. The technology is updated, but the designs and remakes of these still makes the cut. Properly maintained, crystal and gaskets in order, they will still be up for a dive. Lume gone and so on, but other than that… As far as lume goes, that continues to be a variable where a lot of modern divers and remakes of classics don’t really fare that well from what I can tell.

Reply
Drumcairn says:

Jul 04, 2023 at 21:01

Skindivers were anything below 200m – doesn’t have to have that case shape

Reply
Koen Swennen says:

Jul 05, 2023 at 18:00

That Valjoux 72 seems overpriced with its misaligned – probably replaced – hairspring. If the basics are dodgy, who knows what other gremlins lurk beneath.

Reply