Retro Dive Watches Are Suffering From An Identity Crisis: They All Look The Same!
A retro watch is a modern watch evoking a style from a bygone era — usually, in the case of dive watches, the 1950s and ’60s. It’s hard to pinpoint exactly when the “Retro Age” began in the watch world, but I don’t think we’re far off by considering the introduction of the Tudor Black Bay in 2012 as a rough starting point. After that, other big brands didn’t take long to follow Tudor’s lead. In the wake of the familiar names, freshly founded microbrands followed. Long live modern technology as a means to bring to life something that looks like it was lost in history. But familiar design cues have led to a retro-watch landscape that looks quite monotonous. And now it seems that retro dive watches are suffering from an identity crisis.
A small, no-frills case, a minimalist dial with “fauxtina” in all the right places, and a matching wonky bracelet or pre-aged leather strap — these sum up the key elements that make up the majority of retro watches that come out today. Yes, there are a few designs that reshape inspiration from the past, but more often than not, brands take the easy road when creating vintage-inspired retro watches. Consequently, these watches have too much in common with each other. Take away the name and logo on the dial, and you can’t tell what brand created it. Many watchmakers either lack the heritage to draw from or prefer to blend elements of their past designs into modern creations. With so many vintage-inspired dive watches flooding the market, it’s becoming increasingly hard to tell which ones truly deserve your time, attention, and money.
Rolex Submariner ref. 5508 from 1959
Retro dive watches are suffering from an identity crisis — Getting to the bottom of this
The diver, the pilot’s chronograph, and the field watch — three very popular watch categories in which all brands, big or micro, release plenty of novelties each year. Let’s focus on retro-styled dive watches to keep things clear and simple.
Dive watches have enjoyed enduring popularity since their introduction in the 1950s, which coincided with the invention of scuba diving. Over the last 10+ years, nostalgia has sparked a widespread fascination with vintage dive watches. In general, dive watches have transcended their utilitarian heritage and become the ultimate “go anywhere, do anything” sports watch that feels and looks good in almost every situation. In our increasingly informal world, the Rolex Submariner rose to legendary status. With another dive watch from the 1950s, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, the “Sub” set the rules. You get a robust, water-resistant steel case, a unidirectional rotating bezel for tracking dive time, plenty of luminous material, and a screw-down crown.
Unfortunately, these trend-setting classics play hard to get, staying out of reach for so many watch fans. It’s too bad because it seems that everybody loves dive watches, and the dive watch is the most common choice when starting a watch collection. Luckily, countless brands make dive watches in the style of the classics. Their distinctive, sporty look — defined by bold, easy-to-read dials and rotating bezels — is a versatile fashion statement. A dive watch with a clear link to the genre’s origin combines rugged functionality with refined style. However, a homage watch’s features also make it generic, and standing out can be difficult for both the creating brand and the buyer.
From inspiration to reality
There’s nothing wrong with being inspired by the greats, whether in music, for instance, or in watches. But inspiration is the first step. After that, reimagination follows, adding improvements or new touches. That doesn’t always happen, though. Creating a watch also involves a thorough cost calculation. As a result, many easy-on-the-budget microbrand dive watches use the same readily available mechanical movements (the Seiko NH35 or a Miyota power source) and very easy-to-produce cases supplied by the same factories in China. It’s no surprise, then, that the bases look similar. And if you put a homage design based on a famous icon on top, the similarities only become more apparent.
To me, the Lorier Neptune IV (US$599) looks like a take on the Tudor Black Bay 58, which, in turn, takes inspiration from the Tudor ref. 7924, the brand’s version of the Rolex Submariner ref. 6538. Lorier does indeed cite the Rolex 6538 as a source of inspiration, along with the Omega Seamaster 300 ref. CK14755 and the Blancpain Bathyscaphe ref. MC4.
The Mk II Fulcrum 39 Date (US$995) looks a bit more modern but is still clearly inspired by the “OG.” The “MilSub” vibes on this watch are strong. The brand describes the inspiration for the watch as follows: “The Fulcrum 39 represents a fusion and reinterpretation of design elements from iconic watches US Special Forces soldiers would have been exposed to in either Vietnam or in training with their UK counterparts.” The dial does differ from a MilSub, and the bead-blasted finish is also a novel touch.
All brands do it
The HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini and SpaceBoy (€664 plus VAT) retro dive watches, as well as the Abinger Nimrod (£650), are based on the same principles. Clearly, HTD looked at an Oris Divers Sixty-Five before creating the SpaceBoy. Speaking of Oris, the Hölstein-based brand launched that model based on a vintage diver found in an old catalog, and since then, countless variations have appeared. Tudor, which gave us the Black Bay in 2012, has been milking the concept tirelessly. And Longines has its Legend Diver, which the brand never lets come up for air.
So, there are plenty of affordable but not very distinguishable microbrand retro dive watches around, inspired by and based on the usual suspects from yesteryear. Additionally, those usual suspects have been giving us blast after blast from the past. It left us in a sea of retro dive watches that all look alike. In the past, when dive watches had a functional purpose and were not meant to be talking pieces, that didn’t matter. Nowadays, it does. But what do you talk about? The story has been pretty much told, don’t you agree? We need new stories. While they could still be based on tales of yesteryear, they need a plot twist. Some brands have managed to give us such stories, and microbrands operating above the 1k level — in dollars, pounds, euros, or Swiss francs — lead the way.
Retro done differently
Serica, for instance, has the 5303 PLD (€1,690) in its collection. This is the latest version of the brand’s debut 5303 diver, and it has a 39mm stainless steel case with 12.2mm thickness and 46.5mm lug-to-lug. It’s a 300m-water-resistant, Soprod M100-equipped, chronometer-certified watch made in collaboration with French Navy divers. This watch is not the sum of off-the-shelf parts — look at the case shape, the bezel’s design, and the carefully composed colorway. Much love, care, attention, and time went into creating the original 5303s and the PLD version. Yes, the inspiration clearly shows an affection for vintage, but it takes the history, translates it to today, tweaks it, and comes out on the other side as a new composition. You will recognize a Serica from across the room, and that’s no mean feat for a dive watch with retro touches.
Another brand that goes beyond hitching a ride on an old design that’s not its own is Unimatic. A good example is the brand’s S-Series, a take on a minimalist modern dive watch. The Modello Uno U1S-M is a limited edition of 500 pieces and costs €910 plus taxes, while the black DLC U1S-MN, a limited number of 400 pieces, will set you back €1,010 plus taxes. The Modello Uno U1S-M has an all-black dial and bezel insert, resulting in a very minimalist iteration of the Modello Uno. However, the U1S-MN takes the minimalist approach even further. This watch features a black DLC-coated case and looks maximally minimalist.
Staple watch
Of course, the dive watch with its unidirectional timing bezel is a staple; it’s the most popular type of watch that brands need to sell to survive. Practically every brand in every price category needs one in its catalog for obvious commercial reasons. And there’s nothing wrong with, let’s say, a Certina DS Action Diver 40.5mm that feels slightly nostalgic. But we don’t need an endless stream of new, stale-looking retro variations; that doesn’t add anything. The much more contemporary 38mm DS Action Diver in titanium, on the other hand, does.
Also, Tudor, which I hold “responsible” for the ongoing hype around retro divers, now has 115(!) variations of the Black Bay in different watch families. Mind you, these are variations, which also include the different strap options. Still, it’s a lot of references, especially when you consider that these are watches based on another watch, which was probably an alternative to yet another watch.
Take it from the master: less is more
I understand brands need a dive watch with a recognizable look in the collection. And I also know that, nowadays, it has become much easier to create a watch brand, chase your dream, and realize your perfect timepiece by finding the right suppliers. By all means, chase your dreams. However, we also see a big difference between being a well-informed watch fan and a competent watch designer. As a result, many well-intentioned efforts fall short. They can’t stand in the shadow of the watch or watches they are inspired by.
And with that bombshell, we’ve returned to the most famous and successful original design. How many Subs do you think are in the Rolex collection today? Eight. Just eight, including the ref. 126610 LV “Starbucks” and the ref. 126619LB in white gold with a blue bezel. What does that say or even teach us? Less is more. Let that be an inspiration.
