Seiko Introduces A Series of 145th-Anniversary Watches To Start The New Year

It has become a tradition for Seiko to be the first brand to introduce new watches every year. This time, it’s not just one or two but a full quartet of new pieces. To celebrate the brand’s 145th anniversary, Seiko has announced four models that perfectly represent different pillars of the collection. We had the opportunity to inspect three of them up close. The first is the King Seiko SJE151, the second is the Prospex Speedtimer SRQ059, and the third is the Presage SPB538, which features a beautiful enamel dial. The last model in the quartet is the Seiko Astron SSH186. Let’s explore how Seiko kicks off its 145th anniversary.

I love that Seiko is the first major watch brand to introduce new releases each year. After coming back into the office following a much-enjoyed holiday break without writing about watches, I find that new Seiko releases are a great way to get back into it. For this new drop, the brand decided to kick off its 145th anniversary with four releases that show the great diversity of its catalog. All of them feature gold-colored accents to honor Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori’s founding spirit.

King Seiko SJE151

The first in the 145th-anniversary lineup is the King Seiko SJE151. It is a special version of the King Seiko SJE models, also known as the King Seiko KS1969, which came out in 2024.

This new version follows the specs of those watches but introduces a very detailed dial. Let’s start with the former. The watch features a stainless steel tonneau-shaped case inspired by the 1969 King Seiko 45KCM. The case has a 39.4mm diameter and a 9.9mm profile.

It’s an elegant shape that, thanks to the drastically sloping case sides, feels significantly thinner than even the numbers suggest. On the right side of the beautifully finished case, you will find the crown that operates the Seiko caliber 6L35 inside.

This automatic movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, has 26 jewels, and offers a 45-hour power reserve. Seiko rates the 6L35’s accuracy to +15/-10 seconds per day. The caliber lies hidden behind the familiar King Seiko case back. Completing the now-familiar look of the SJE line is a multi-row bracelet, which features an intricate mix of brushed and polished parts for added visual impact.

A very detailed new dial

But the big news of this release is not on the back of the watch, of course; it’s the new dial commemorating Seiko’s 145th anniversary. My first glance at this new model made me think of the King Seiko SPB365 that I reviewed in 2023. It doesn’t have the same pattern, but the principle of adding texture and detail is similar.

Additionally, I thoroughly enjoyed my hands-on experience with that specific watch, as the dial added a great deal of depth. The same goes for this new model. Underneath the box-shaped sapphire crystal, this King Seiko features a gray gradient dial with an intricate texture inspired by the pattern that Kintaro Hattori arranged to be engraved on his timepieces.

It’s a wonderfully detailed dial texture that gets extra impact because the gray gradually darkens towards the edges. Additionally, gold-tone accents offer a pleasing, warm contrast.

The applied hour markers, hands, and even the text on the dial are in a gold color, adding a nice level of class and sophistication to the design. Another lovely detail is the gold-tone frame surrounding a color-matched gray date wheel featuring white printing. All in all, this is a classy and sophisticated 145th-anniversary model. It will be available in a limited run of 800 pieces for €3,200.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ059

The second of the four new Seiko watches is the Prospex Speedtimer SRQ059. This is a variation of the Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph that debuted in 2023. I had the pleasure of going hands-on with two follow-up models in 2024, and we have seen more versions of this sporty chronograph pop up in the last two years.

The newest variation features a crisp white dial with an intricate radial pattern and gold accents. Once again, the pattern was inspired by a pattern engraved on Hattori’s early timepieces, making this reference stand out compared to other Speedtimers. Somehow, this watch also reminded me of the IWC GST Chronograph ref. IW3707-13 from the early 2000s that also uses that color scheme. It’s not one we see often, but it looks handsome.

The Speedtimer SRQ059 has a 42mm stainless steel case with a 14.6mm thickness and a 49.5mm lug-to-lug. This retro-styled case is complemented by a vintage-inspired stainless steel bracelet that further enhances the classic look. The crisp white dial features three registers. First, there is the small seconds sub-dial at 3 o’clock, followed by the chronograph’s 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock. As you can see, the gold-tone hands feature black accents that match the black printing, contributing to a refined overall presence.

The automatic Seiko 8R48

Inside the case, you will find the self-winding Seiko 8R48 chronograph movement, which also powers the previous models. It features a column wheel and 34 jewels, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and offers a 45-hour power reserve. Furthermore, the caliber has a vertical clutch for smooth chronograph action. This watch has plenty of wrist presence, fits nicely on my 18.5cm wrist, and is a joy to operate thanks to the solid chronograph caliber.

I appreciate that Seiko chose to create a detailed white dial for this Speedtimer. It requires multiple examinations to understand all the little details, and that makes it a nice, modest version of this chronograph that unveils its true beauty up close. Granted, gold details can hardly be called modest, but I’m sure you understand what I mean. Seiko will produce 700 pieces of this limited edition, and each will cost €2,700.

Seiko Presage SPB538

The third and last of the four models we spent time with is part of the Seiko Presage Classic Series. To be more precise, it’s part of the “Craftsmanship” line because of its beautiful white enamel dial. But I’m getting ahead of myself. This SPB538 is based on a version of the famous Seiko Timekeeper pocket watch. The circular gold-plated stainless steel case features a wonderfully detailed bezel and an onion-shaped crown. As you can see, the watch also has articulating lugs, a nod to its pocket-watch roots.

The 35mm case has a 12.3mm profile and a 50m water resistance rating. Inside it lies a lovely and smooth white enamel dial featuring slender black Roman numerals. The Seiko logo on the dial is executed in gold and corresponds with the gold-colored handset. Fittingly, the dial and hands are protected by a box-shaped crystal, further enhancing the vintage feel.

The Seiko 6R51

Inside the case, you will find the modern 24-jewel Seiko caliber 6R51, which operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a 72-hour power reserve. This three-day power reserve is also noted on the dial, as you can see. Finally, Seiko fits the watch with a pull-through leather strap sourced from Leather Working Group-certified tanneries, ensuring the use of sustainable leather.

Seiko will produce a total of 1,450 pieces of this stylish, classically designed timepiece, which will retail for €2,000. If you end up buying one of these watches, you will be tapping into the early history of the brand, and it’s a great and fun way to bring that history to life. Additionally, I love that Seiko kept the case nice and small, ensuring it feels like a proper modern version of a classic watch.

Seiko Astron SSH186

The final watch in this quartet of 145th-anniversary models is a variation of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph. This version follows the SSH187 that Thomas wrote about late last year. This new version features a 44.1 × 14.4mm blacked-out titanium case accompanied by a black titanium bracelet with gold detailing. Topping the case is a titanium bezel with a gold-colored sapphire crystal insert. This matches the gold-colored crown and intermediate links in the bracelet. Additionally, the textured dial features a gold-colored Seiko logo and matching indexes and hands.

Inside the case, you will find the Seiko 5X83 GPS Solar chronograph movement. This modern caliber adjusts the time automatically when it receives a satellite signal. Additionally, it can switch time zones between the central and subsidiary displays with the press of a button. Lastly, the caliber features a perpetual calendar that will remain accurate until February 28th, 2100, independent hour-hand adjustment, and a power-saving mode. Seiko will produce 1,450 pieces of this new €3,400 145th-anniversary model.

Final thoughts on the new Seiko 145th-anniversary watches

It’s fun to see this new 145th-anniversary lineup. It keeps the tradition alive by making Seiko the first brand to release notable watches in the new year. Additionally, the brand consistently incorporates subtle details into its commemorative watches, setting them apart from the standard models.

My favorite of the three we handled was the elegant and handsome King Seiko SJE151. That said, the great thing about this new anniversary series is that there is a watch for everyone. It shows the great variety and depth of the Seiko collection. Additionally, the rich history will ensure that we have plenty of new 145th-anniversary watches to look forward to.

All four of the watches announced today will go on sale in February and will be available at Seiko boutiques and select retail stores worldwide.