Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another epic watch battle. In this week’s showdown, we selected two stainless steel and gold watches with integrated bracelets to go up against each other. The first is the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty in steel and yellow gold. Released just a few weeks ago, it’s a proper statement of ’70s bliss. Today, it takes on the steel and rose gold version of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF. It’s another powerful design statement that looks brilliant in two-tone. Which of the two will win this week’s battle? Let’s find out!
This week’s showdown is all about presence. If the world of steel and gold is not for you, then this battle will not be your cup of tea. But when we prepared this week’s battle, we made the rounds and discovered that there aren’t that many steel and gold options in the integrated-bracelet universe these days. While the bicolor Royal Oak is a classic, the brand currently doesn’t carry one in its collection. The same applies to other competitors, such as the Nautilus and Overseas. Two-tone integrated-bracelet watches have become a rare breed. But we found two brands that proudly carry the torch. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty is a nod to the 1970s, priced at €28,100, while the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm is priced at €36,400. Which would you pick?
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Before we hand it over to Mike and Jorg, let’s quickly look at the results from last week. In a surprising twist, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium beat the new Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon “Black/Black.” It’s not often that a Speedmaster loses a one-on-one battle here at Fratello. The IWC emerged victorious, though, taking 55% of the votes versus 45% for the Omega. The comments showed that you are not the biggest fans of fully blacked-out watches. As to why the IWC won, one of the deciding factors in voting was the lack of readability of the Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon “Black/Black.” As a result, this Speedy goes down in history as one of the few that didn’t win a Sunday Morning Showdown. With that out of the way, over to Mike and Jorg for this week’s battle.
Jorg: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty
First, I love a good two-tone watch, but not many watches can pull off the look properly. The Rolex Datejust and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are great examples of watches that can. They are classics that proudly represent the 1970s in grand style. That’s also what many watch enthusiasts who dislike the combination of materials take issue with. It’s a statement of a bygone era and looks outdated to them.
I am the opposite, though, because I like statement pieces that proudly represent specific eras in watchmaking. Sure, you could debate that buying an actual vintage watch is a better choice, and I would see your point. However, if done well, a modern ’70s statement is a nice homage to the past while offering the everyday practicality of a contemporary watch.
Overall, Rolex watches look the best in a specific combination of materials. A more recent favorite of mine is the brilliant two-tone GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR, which came out two years ago. It’s another watch with a history in steel and gold, and there is more to the story than just the combination of color and materials. The same is true of the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty. It is a tribute to the first Laureato introduced in 1975. This limited edition of 200 pieces perfectly shows the relevance of the modern Laureato.
The Laureato Fifty is an impressive statement piece
I was sold when Nacho handed me the Laureato Fifty after it arrived in our offices. Some watches are more than just another variation of a specific model. They become a representation of a style or an era. That’s what this new Laureato Fifty is for me. This respectful nod to the ’70s proves to be as relevant as ever. The watch features a 39mm case with a 9.8mm thickness, giving it a nice, slim look on the wrist.
The design team at Girard-Perregaux perfectly understood how to pay homage to the 1970s. The tonneau-shaped case is executed in stainless steel, while the octagonal bezel is made of 18K yellow gold.
Additionally, the crown and center links of the integrated bracelet are yellow gold for extra visual impact. What truly makes the watch for me, though, is the dial. Girard-Perregaux cleverly chose gray for this one, and it features the characteristic Clous de Paris pattern. Add the yellow gold applied indexes and hands, and you get a dial that proudly oozes ’70s style.
The brand-new in-house caliber 4800
As Robert-Jan explained, you will find the brand-new caliber 4800 inside the case, designed and built entirely in-house. The design of the movement is a nod to GP’s famous three-bridge architecture. Additionally, the mix of materials and finishes is a joy to behold. The caliber comprises 163 parts, operates at 28,800vph, and offers 55 hours of power reserve. It also contains a silicon escapement and a variable-inertia balance, making it more precise and reliable. All these things bridge the gap between the Laureato Fifty’s retro style and the modern refinements we expect from luxury watches today.
The modern touches continue with the bracelet and clasp. The latter features a clever, quick-pull 4mm extension. This ensures that you can size the watch perfectly depending on the temperature and conditions where you are. It makes this Laureato Fifty the perfect modern homage to the original watch from 1975. When you put the watch on your wrist, you feel that.
It takes you back to the 1970s, and I am all here for it. I was born in 1977, so I have a soft spot for that decade, and this watch transported me directly back to the days of Fleetwood Mac, Monty Python, Steven Spielberg’s Jaws, and the Thrilla in Manila. That is exactly what I want from a watch like this.
A watch without a story is reduced to a style statement
That is also the crux of this battle. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF doesn’t have that history with the transformative powers. It simply is a modern style statement and nothing more. It is a beautiful watch, as are all the Tonda PF Automatic models. But without a story, it is reduced to “just another” Tonda PF.
In that context, I would pick a different Tonda PF Automatic every time. I also love multiple Laureato models, but my favorite is this new Laureato Fifty. That is why I would pick this over the Tonda PF Automatic in steel and gold every time. But please let us know why I am mistaken, Mike.
Mike: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm
Jorg, I can’t say that your choice of the new Laureato Fifty is wrong because I adore that piece. It was high time that Girard-Perregaux released a lustworthy and attention-getting watch. No, my challenge with the latest Laureato is that it’s yet another example of a brand creating forced exclusivity. Why are there just 200 of these pieces when the market would likely devour more? It seems counterintuitive and very 2021. While I don’t have a leg to stand on when comparing the GP to my contender in terms of pricing (the Parmigiani is frighteningly expensive at €36,400), it also feels like a pricey endeavor. However, considering its limited production run, I suppose the cost is less of a concern.
However, as much as I like the Laureato Fifty, I can’t ignore the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm. In its latest guise, the watch is adorned with a diamond-set Deep Ruby dial, and the stainless steel case is joined by 18K rose gold flourishes. These include the small bracelet links, fluted bezel, crown, hands, and applied logo. Parmigiani Fleurier only included pictures of women wearing the watch, which I think is limiting.
I love the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm
My beef with Parmigiani and its marketing team stems from the fact that this watch is perfectly unisex. It’s supremely elegant, with one of the supplest bracelets I’ve sampled. The integrated case design has masculine touches, but is so beautifully crafted that it could double as fine jewelry.
Yes, I’ve gone on record and have stated that the next high-end watch I will own will likely be a 36mm Tonda PF in steel and platinum. I’ll take the Stone Blue model, please! What’s great about the new Deep Ruby piece and the previous white-dial version, though, is how well the design translates to two-tone. Jorg was correct: not every watch looks good in such a combo.
Whereas I find full-gold Tondas too showy and possibly too feminine, the bicolor versions maintain a fine balance. This makes them incredibly versatile and appropriate for a variety of wrists. How about the diamonds on the Deep Ruby version? I hear you if those don’t sound appealing on a dial. However, my experience with diamond-set Tondas is that the stones are so fine that they could pass as diamond-polished metal.
A beautiful movement
It’s difficult to knock the Laureato Fifty and its GP4800 automatic caliber. Once again, though, I’m a bigger fan of the Parmigiani Fleurier PF770. The 39-jewel automatic movement is adjusted in five positions, has a frequency of 28,800vph, and offers 60 hours of power reserve. Plus, it’s a beauty with its 22K gold skeletonized oscillating rotor, anglage, and Côtes de Genève. Again, the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm feels like a finely honed creation worth savoring.
Time to choose
While many of you may balk at both of these watches because of the blend of materials, I think each has its merits. The Laureato Fifty is a faithful reproduction of the original model from 1975. There’s no denying that it’s attractive and timely. As a limited edition, that may prove frustrating for some.
Then again, the 39mm diameter may work better than the Tonda’s 36mm case. The Parmigiani is a dressier and more jewelry-like watch. Yet, it can work well on the wrists of both sexes. In the cons column, the Tonda is 25% more expensive. Considering all these points, it’s time to choose. Cast your vote and let us know why you chose the way you did.
