Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Vs. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41
Good morning and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Last week, we had a surprising matchup between two titanium high-beat chronographs that ended up in a tie. This week, we’re curious to see what happens when we put two stainless steel integrated bracelet reinterpretations up against each other. In 2023, IWC brought back the Ingenieur, based on Gerald Genta’s design from the ’70s. In 1999, Chopard did the same with the 1980s St. Moritz and called it the Alpine Eagle. Both are high-end integrated bracelet sports watches with history, so let’s see what happens when they battle it out together.
The IWC Ingenieur sells for a bit less, at €12,900, while the Chopard Alpine Eagle costs €15,900. That’s quite a chunk of money, but Daan and Thomas will make sure to defend the watches in each corner and make sense of all their differences. However, before they do so, let’s take a look at what happened during last week’s installment.
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown, we put two titanium high-beat chronographs up against each other. First, there was the Zenith Chronomaster Sport, and in the other corner was the Grand Seiko Tentagraph. Both are as impressive as they are technically advanced, and based on the voting results, it was hard to pick a winner. In the end, both watches got 50% of the votes. Some preferred the Zenith’s more streamlined design over the chunkier Grand Seiko. Others thought the Grand Seiko had the better finishing of the two and didn’t like the Zenith’s 1/10 of a second central chrono hand. However, as said, in the end, it was a tie. Let’s see what happens during this week’s battle.
Daan: Chopard Alpine Eagle 41
On paper, the Chopard Alpine Eagle and the IWC Ingenieur might be pretty close to each other. They’re both reinterpretations of an earlier model, have a stainless steel integrated bracelet, and feature screws in the bezel. However, if you show people a picture of both next to each other, I think people will very soon have a preference for one or the other. For some reason, the designs of these showpieces exude very different vibes, just like the brands that created them.
When comparing the Chopard Alpine Eagle with the IWC Ingenieur, the Alpine Eagle stands out for its refined elegance. Crafted from Lucent Steel, it has a distinct brightness, with a dial pattern reminiscent of an eagle’s iris. The bracelet flows seamlessly into the case, showcasing a high level of craftsmanship. While it exudes a sense of sophistication, its design also reflects strength and sportiness beneath the polished exterior.
The IWC Ingenieur has a purposeful, no-nonsense design marked by five precisely aligned screws on the bezel. It does approach the point where it could be described as harmless. The watch focuses on performance over romance, offering a 120-hour power reserve and a reputation for reliability. Its risk-free style works as well in formal settings as in demanding environments, reflecting decades of IWC’s engineering expertise.
Ultimately, in my book, the Chopard’s elegance and charm outweigh the no-nonsense, almost sterile nature of the IWC.
On the safe side vs. exciting
Don’t get me wrong, I think IWC’s Gerald Genta homage looks great with that muscular stainless steel case and bracelet, and the matching grid on the dial. I also think the date is much better located than the one on the Alpine Eagle. However, for some reason, the IWC Ingenieur also isn’t a very exciting watch to look at. I find its design to be a bit bland and on the safe side. As I said, it’s rock solid, but it’s also a bit too perfect. And yes, that 120-hour power reserve is handy to have, but also not strictly necessary on an automatic watch. It comes across as bragging a little bit, cocky almost.
The Chopard Alpine Eagle, on the other hand, isn’t all that perfect. Its design with that eagle iris/sunburst dial, the oversized Roman numerals, and the bracelet, which, according to Chopard, resembles a feather—specifically through its slightly tapered shape and the raised central cap on each link—is much more divisive. But without taking those risks, you never get to a truly daring design that evokes at least some kind of charm and personality.
It’s in the details
Finally, I’d like to focus your attention on a few very important details that the Chopard Alpine Eagle got very right. First of all, at 9.7mm, it’s quite a lot thinner than the IWC Ingenieur. 1.1mm might not seem like a lot, but it’s the reason why the Alpine Eagle has an under-10 mm thickness, which makes it wear a lot better on the wrist.
Then, we need to talk about butterfly clasps. On the IWC Ingenieur, the clasp looks like it was just taken straight from a very generic watch bracelet stock, from which all brands (and their mother) get their clasps. However, the one on the Chopard looks like it was specifically designed and engineered for the Alpine Eagle’s bracelet. I also like the fact that it doesn’t require push buttons and works with pressure. I know, you probably won’t be looking at these clasps all day long, but it’s the thing you use day in and day out to put on and take off your watch. All right, Thomas, let’s hear why you think the IWC Ingenieur is the winning watch this week.
Thomas: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
Thank you, Daan! You make some compelling points, although I don’t think you should jump to conclusions about where my mother gets her clasps. I think the Alpine Eagle loses to the IWC for several reasons. I will base my case on two: history and design. I think your mountain bird is nice, but it has issues. For starters, it is a bit posh, isn’t it? In fact, let’s dive straight into my points regarding design, as they touch on this.
I often make this point in Sunday Morning Showdowns, and it applies here: the IWC is more cohesive. As a modern sports watch, based on a historic professional tool, it gets a lot right. I like that IWC kept it relatively simple, except maybe for the dial pattern. The Alpine Eagle, on the other hand, tries to be two things simultaneously. Its shiny details and Roman numerals look a bit too fancy for a sports watch. It tries to look aristocratic in an unsympathetic manner.
The IWC also beats the Alpine Eagle in the details. The date aperture on the Chopard would be a dealbreaker for me, especially on such a pretty dial. The crown guards and their mirror image on the other flank don’t quite work with the rest of the watch either. The IWC may be a bit boring in comparison, but it gets the fundamentals right, which I value a lot more.
The IWC Ingenieur beats the Alpine Eagle in historical context
While design isn’t totally subjective, you might still end up liking the Chopard’s looks more. Let me focus my second blow on the more objective subject of history, then. The Ingenieur is one of IWC’s most significant lines, dating all the way back to 1955. The watch was aimed at engineers and scientists, with its resistance against magnetic fields up to 80,000 A/m.
Ingenieur SL 1832 “Jumbo” — Image: A Collected Man London
Several versions later, the watch underwent a significant overhaul in the seventies. None other than Gerald Genta drew the integrated bracelet version. Crucially, it came out in 1976, the same year as the Patek Philippe Nautilus. That means it is one of the OGs of the genre, unlike the Chopar St. Moritz that didn’t see the light of day until the early 1980s.
Today’s Ingenieur remains faithful to the 1976 watch. As such, IWC created recognizability and provided its new watch with a clear historical frame.
Better value
Neither watch offers haute horlogerie in the movement department. IWC even hides its effort behind a solid case back due to the use of a soft iron cage. To me, this only serves to drive the point home that this is the more serious, purpose-driven watch. The 120-hour power reserve indeed is a nice bonus, Daan.
You get all this at a whopping €3,000 less than the Alpine Eagle. A better-looking watch, with a significant backstory, plus budget for a nice holiday. That makes this a very straightforward choice, in my book!
Cast your vote
There you have it! Two integrated bracelet sports watches are vying for your vote. Which does it better, in your eyes? Cast your vote and share your motivations in the comments section below!
