Sunday Morning Showdown: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 Vs. Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42
Turn on the coffee machine because it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. In this week’s battle, two retro-infused dive watches take center stage. The first is the recently released Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218. It’s a modern remake of a 1993 classic made exclusively for the Italian Navy. It will face off against the new version of the Breitling Superocean Heritage 42. This watch also takes inspiration from a classic, and both contenders hail from renowned and widely popular brands. But which of the two will claim the victory this week? Let’s find out!
Last week’s unveiling of the Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 marked the first time that the brand reissued a modern version of the classic Luminor ref. 5218-202/A from 1993. That watch was part of the original trio of releases that Panerai created for its public debut 32 years ago. However, the watch was made exclusively for Italian Navy personnel, so seeing the modern PAM05218 that takes after it is special. It’s competing with the Breitling SuperOcean Heritage B31 Automatic 42. The watch was introduced in June as part of the newly revamped SuperOcean Heritage collection. The latest models feature slimmer cases thanks to the updated calibers and have a string of nice design optimizations. All in all, the SuperOcean Heritage feels refreshed and ready to take on the Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218.
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
But first, let’s quickly look back at the previous battle. In last Sunday’s showdown, the new Doxa Sub 750T went up against the Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II. In the end, the retro Doxa took the crown with 54% of the votes, leaving the Oris with 46%. The comments showed a mixed bag of opinions. Most of you picked your favorite based on either the modern look of the Aquis or the vintage-inspired aesthetic of the Doxa. It’s a fair angle of approach that most of us would use as the primary reason to pick one or the other. In the end, the Doxa took the win by a small margin, but every win counts. Over to Mike and Jorg for this week’s showdown.
Jorg: Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42
Let me start by saying that I’ll try to keep this short. A little look behind the Fratello scenes is that Mike and I are opposites when it comes to writing. I usually spend a lot of words expressing my opinions, whereas Mike is great at conveying his point succinctly. But today, there is one clear reason why I would pick the Breitling. For me, it’s all about this watch’s practicality. I had the opportunity to try out both watches, and I like them a lot. I might even prefer the Panerai’s looks and backstory a bit more, but of the watches in this matchup, I would never consider it as a daily wearer.
That also brings me to the potential elephant in the room. You could ask why I didn’t pick the 44mm version of the Superocean Heritage, as it is closer in size to the PAM05218. You would be right, but that doesn’t change my overall argument for the Superocean. Therefore, whether it’s the 42mm or the 44mm version becomes a matter of personal preference rather than a qualification for this showdown. With that out of the way, let’s take a quick look at the new Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42.
The new Breitling Superocean Heritage collection is greatly improved
As mentioned, the watch is part of the revamped Superocean Heritage collection that debuted in June. Breitling did a great job updating the collection with new calibers and newly designed cases and bracelets. Additionally, the brand introduced 40mm and 36mm versions of its charming retro dive watch, providing several options for people with smaller wrists. For me, the heart of the collection is the new 40mm and updated 42mm models, which most people would probably choose.
When we received the collection, the 42mm version immediately spoke to me. I loved the combination of the redesigned glossy black dial with the green ceramic bezel insert. The dial was redesigned from scratch and leans heavily into the Superocean’s history. Breitling fans will immediately recognize that the new dial design and the handset take design cues from the Superocean Heritage ’57.
The hour markers and the large index at 12 o’clock immediately connect the new design to Breitling’s modern version of its first dive watch. On top of that, compared to the previous generation, the minute track with extra markers is far more refined. It gives the new dials so much more character.
The new mesh bracelet is a thing of beauty
But the cherry on top was the new, neatly integrated mesh bracelet. I love mesh bracelets in general, but the way Breitling slimmed down the mesh bracelet for the Superocean Heritage without compromising its quality is impressive. On top of that, the bracelet’s flawless connection to the case creates a beautiful, natural flow that gives the watches a much greater elegance.
As Mike explained, the improvements continue with the new caliber B31, which has an exclusive production line at Sellita’s AMT division. The 26-jewel automatic movement operates at 28,800vph and has a 78-hour power reserve. This new caliber is also a COSC-certified chronometer with a free-sprung balance wheel. Besides offering a great set of modern specs, perhaps the best thing about the new B31 is that it is much slimmer than the previous B20 caliber. It has allowed Breitling to significantly slim down the case for all models, improving their wearability.
The Breitling Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42 is a better daily wearer
The new 42mm case boasts a 12.03mm profile and a 49.55mm lug-to-lug. Compared to the 51.8mm lug-to-lug and 14.35mm thickness of the previous generation, that is a massive improvement and a great step forward for Breitling. It’s also the defining element that makes the new Superocean Heritage the clear winner in today’s matchup.
The Superocean Heritage — whether in the 42mm or 44mm size — is simply the much better daily watch. As a result, you will enjoy it much more than the equally brilliant-looking Panerai. Add the friendlier €6,400 price versus €8,500 for the Panerai, and I see no reason why you wouldn’t pick the Breitling. But let us know why I’m wrong, Mike.
Mike: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218
Once again, I’m back trading punches with my buddy Jorg. This time, it’s an ironic battle because I covered the Breitling Superocean Heritage upon its release, and Jorg wrote about the Panerai. This ensures we have to come up with fresh arguments to support our candidates. Plus, I chose the new PAM for a reason.
Panerai is back!
I’ve told this story several times, both in written form and on our podcast, but I have a soft spot for Panerai. The brand is solely responsible for my first-ever watch crush. It was 1997 or 1998 when I initially saw a frogman advertisement in the back of a magazine. It was mysterious, but most of all, the watch looked very different than the thin, jewelry-like pieces that were all the rage at the time. A Panerai was bold but simple, and dammit, I wanted one.
Of course, I was still in school and had to wait several years until I could scrape together the money for the smaller PAM00048. During my savings period, I witnessed a watch phenomenon that probably hasn’t occurred since. No matter where you went, the Panerai showcases were typically empty, but there wasn’t the snobby elitism that we find today with desirable brands. It was a cool period, but like all trends, it slowly quieted.
It would be easy to write off the new Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 as yet another Panerai that looks rearward. It is, in fact, an ode to the 5218 from 1993. Yet, to me at least, it feels special. I don’t mind when the brand creates wild complications or uses funky, futuristic materials. However, if I’m being honest, I always think that Panerai is at its best when it follows the KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid) formula. A Panerai watch is meant to be simple, straightforward, and rugged. This one checks all of those boxes.
Back to the old Luminor formula
While I enjoy the 1950 case design, I’m pleased that the Marina Militare uses a more typical Luminor case, albeit with more sculpted lugs. The chunky, locking crown guard is one of the watch world’s most recognizable designs, and it looks fantastic. While the DLC coating is possibly a polarizing addition, it was always reserved for special pieces. Additionally, for those of us who grew up in the late ’90s and early ’00s, the coated Pre-Vendôme models were the stuff of legend. Even the limited editions that came out during the early 2000s were highly desirable.
The black case pairs perfectly with a matte black dial. Then, the use of aged Super-LumiNova creates a distinctive appearance. Some have taken issue with the lack of a sandwich dial, but the original Pre-Vendôme 5218-202A from 1993 had printed lume. On the new PAM05218, the dial features routed channels with Super-LumiNova added. Then, there are the characteristic non-matching luminous hands. This design stays true to the original.
Still a large watch
I’m still faced with one issue when it comes to the PAM05218. Namely, due to its 44mm diameter, I struggle to wear it on my small wrist. However, this is a battle between two watches meant for larger wrists. While I love the Breitling and would choose it over most Panerai watches, the Marina Militare feels special to me. Perhaps I should do what I do every five years or so, which is to try one on to see if, magically, my wrist (or eyesight) has changed.
The right style of movement inside
A huge difference between the Panerai and the Breitling is the style of movement. Whereas the Breitling has an automatic caliber, the Panerai uses a manual-winding one. Frankly, this is what a basic Luminor should have within its case. The movement offers a heady three days of power reserve, but it still requires owner interaction via the crown.
A more expensive but more exclusive offering
Panerai is selling the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 for €8,500, which is €2,100 more than the Superocean Heritage on a mesh bracelet. That’s not insignificant, but consider that Panerai will make just 500 of these watches annually. These days, it’s hard to tell whether that production figure will be a limiting factor or not, but I believe that buyers will come to check out this watch. I plan to see if the London boutique has one in stock.
Time to vote
Choosing between the Breitling Supercean Heritage B31 Automatic 42 and the Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 is difficult. In a way, both probably appeal to similar audiences and are likely to be popular in my home country, the USA. On the other hand, the Panerai is a throwback piece, while the Breitling is more of a daily driver. But in this battle of the bigs, only one colossus can win. Which will you choose and why? Let us know in the comments section below, and thanks for playing!
