The Platinum 321 Is The Pinnacle Of Speedmaster Moonwatches
Omega not only introduced the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary editions in 2019 but also brought back the legendary caliber 321. On July 21st of that year, precisely 50 years after the Speedmaster became the Moonwatch, the brand introduced that movement in a platinum Moonwatch, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Platinum ref. 311.93.42.30.99.001.
Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Platinum
Omega added several Moonwatch variations in the past six years. Since 2019, the brand has released the updated standard Moonwatch with caliber 3861, one model in Canopus Gold and two in Moonshine Gold, a Silver Snoopy Award 55th Anniversary edition, a white-dial Speedmaster Professional, two bicolor Moonwatch variants, a new First Omega in Space, and a Speedmaster Calibre 321 in stainless steel and one in white gold. I will leave all the non-Moonwatch variations out of scope.
Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary
Caliber 3861
Omega updated the regular Moonwatch after many years. The previous 1861-powered Moonwatch with the typical Speedmaster bracelet was in production for nearly 24 years, minor iterations aside. The Biel/Bienne-based company’s Moonwatch update brought it closer to the original Professional model used on the Moon (refs. 105.012 and 145.012).
This included a new case design, which could also already be found on the Apollo 11 editions from 2019 and the Silver Snoopy Award, an updated movement (3861), and a new bracelet. Some elements had already been used in some of the limited or special editions in recent years before 2021.
Caliber 321 introduction
Omega has left the reintroduced caliber 321 relatively alone since its introduction in 2019. In the current Calibre 321 lineup, we only find the platinum Moonwatch, the steel re-edition of the 105.003 “Ed White” (but “Gene Cernan” would be more appropriate), and the Canopus Gold Broad Arrow based on the original CK2915.
The watchmakers at Omega who work on these three variations work separately from the regular production lines in the manufacture in Biel/Bienne. A special atelier is used to work on these watches, and the only other Omega timepieces manufactured in this workshop are the tourbillon models.
Recap of the platinum Moonwatch
The Speedmaster Calibre 321 Platinum is based on the original Speedmaster Professional ref. 105.012, but it uses luxurious materials, such as platinum (Pt950 with some gold in the alloy) for the case and onyx and meteorite for the beautiful dial.
Omega opted to use a two-layer dial. This was to achieve the look of a step dial, which the Speedmaster had from 1957 to 1974. The applied white gold hour markers are shaped in such a way that they touch both the outer dial and the central portion.
The sub-dials, made of lunar meteorite, have sunken surfaces with white gold rims surrounding them. What makes this watch stand out, in my opinion, is the onyx dial’s pitch-black shade.
Gene Cernan’s Speedmaster with caliber 321, as worn on the Moon (Apollo 17)
Based on the second-generation caliber 321
As for the movement, the caliber 321 was the only Speedmaster movement used on the Moon. Omega’s caliber 321 is derived from the Lémania (mind the “é”) 27 CHRO C12 movement that debuted in 1942. Omega started developing its specific version of that movement in 1946 and called it the caliber 321.
This column-wheel chronograph movement had a screwed balance oscillating at 18,000vph, a power reserve of 44 hours, and 17 jewels. It powered the Speedmaster CK2915 when it came out in 1957 and was kept in the Speedmaster until 1968, when Omega replaced it with the cam-actuated caliber 861. Like other Omega movements at the time, the 321 had a copper finish, and there were two “major” versions.
German silver
The Speedmaster Platinum Calibre 321 movement is based on the second-generation 321. You can easily identify this by the shape of the clutch bridge.
Asymmetrical bridge
Lémania’s clutch bridge had a symmetrical shape in the first generation, and in the second generation (1964 onwards), it was asymmetrical. It’s the bridge to the right of the column wheel in the picture above, and it has an awkward greenish color. Omega made this bridge out of German silver.
Sedna Gold instead of copper
The modern caliber 321 might look like it has a copper finish, as the original did, but it doesn’t. In fact, it is Sedna Gold, Omega’s proprietary rose gold alloy.
Calibre 321 pricing
Price-wise, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in steel is €17,100, the platinum Moonwatch is €72,300 (or €107,500 with the platinum bracelet), and the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold is €101,200.
Although the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in white gold with the bracelet trumps the price tag of the version we have here, the platinum edition is a Moonwatch variation instead of a tribute to the CK2915.
Also, add the platinum bracelet, which is even more costly than the Canopus version. On top of that, its onyx dial has meteorite sub-dials. Each sub-dial is unique, and you’ll notice quite a few (color and motif) variations of them. To many enthusiasts, the platinum Speedmaster Calibre 321 is the endgame Speedmaster.
A rare breed
There is no official number for the annual production of the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in platinum. Still, I highly doubt Omega is producing the 1,000–2,000 caliber 321s that the brand casually mentioned during the introduction of this caliber in 2019.
Omega probably allocated a very small amount of that quantity to the platinum and Canopus Gold models. While I spot regular Speedmasters on the wrists of people quite often, the only times I see these modern 321-powered watches outside the manufacture or boutiques are during Speedmaster events.
Of course, there are more expensive pieces (Chrono Chime, anyone?), but the platinum Speedmaster with its onyx parts and 321 movement is perhaps the ultimate tribute to the 42mm Moonwatch. Is this the Speedmaster Professional to rule them all, or would you rather have another model? Let me know in the comments.
