British Watchmaker James Lamb Introduces The Linea Edition — A Joint Effort Between Artisans

Be honest: did you know of James Lamb before you saw this article on Fratello? Well, I certainly didn’t before I started researching the brand for this article. James Lamb is a British artisan watchmaker, and handmade silver watch cases and enameled silver dials are his shtick. The watches in his Origin Series are all inspired by the seasons and the elements. They feature beautiful colors, a ceramic sub-dial, and Argentium cases. Now, James introduces his new Linea Edition in collaboration with engraver Joanne Ryall and enameler Andy Roberts. Each watch in this artisanal series features a handmade silver case with an engraved titanium dial, 18K gold details, and an engraved and enameled case back.

After completing his watchmaking degree at the British Horological Institute and working in the engineering-technology industry for 15 years, James Lamb began designing and crafting watches in 2020. If, like me, you aren’t familiar with his work, it’s worth checking out his website and Instagram page, which feature examples of his previous projects.

Joanne Ryall is a renowned ornamental engraver who works entirely by hand under a microscope. On her website and Instagram page, you can find examples of all the various objects she engraves, like knives, Zippo lighters, and, of course, watches.

Finally, there’s Andy Roberts, who you might know from the enamel dials on the De Rijke & Co. Guy Allen Amalfi Series. Together, these three artisans created the James Lamb Linea Edition. Let’s take a look.

James Lamb Linea Edition

James Lamb’s new Linea Edition differentiates itself from his earlier watches with a fully hand-engraved titanium dial with 18K gold accents. In addition, the edition’s handmade Argentium case features a new design with broad lugs that protrude from the flanks instead of the more common straight lugs seen in previous editions. The 960 Argentium alloy boasts superior tarnish resistance, a brighter white color (closer to pure silver), better durability, and improved hypoallergenic properties compared to traditional sterling (925) silver.

The watch has a 40.5mm diameter and features a faceted mid-case. The lugs have a 47.5mm span from tip to tip and accommodate 22mm-wide leather straps. Including the pressure-fit case back made of solid 940 Argentium silver, the Linea Edition also has a 12.8mm profile. Andy Roberts engraved the case back with a geometric motif and a James Lamb logo. After that, he also meticulously filled it with black and gold enamel. Underneath the case back lies a high-grade Sellita SW210 hand-wound movement to power the watch. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and holds a 42-hour power reserve.

Hand-engraved titanium dials with 18K gold inlays

Finally, we arrive at the mesmerizing hand-engraved titanium dials featuring 18K gold inlays and a frosted ceramic sub-dial within a 14K gold rim. James told me that Joanne Ryall made him choose between stainless steel and titanium. Those materials are hard enough to cut while keeping a nice edge and firm enough to allow the gold inlay to be pressed in without damaging the motif. He decided to go for titanium because of its richer, darker tone that contrasts nicely with gold.

Within the Linea editions, you can choose between three versions. The first one is the Mitsuba, which is the Japanese word for “three leaves.” The pattern is a reinterpretation of the asanoha (hemp-leaf) motif, which traditionally stands for growth and protection. The leaves are adorned with fine layers of yellow, rose, and green gold inlays.

Next up is the Altair, which is also the name of the brightest star in the Aquila constellation. This one has a Moorish-inspired geometric motif with bright yellow gold stars at certain intersections. This design stands for clarity, restraint, and structural beauty.

Last but certainly not least is the Regent, which features the rich British tradition of scroll engraving, a discipline once reserved for the finest silver and sporting arms. The graceful motif, featuring very fine details, is also adorned with a subtle layer of gold, making it feel even more regal than it already appears.

All three versions include an off-center frosted ceramic sub-dial with a minute track, Arabic numerals, and a James Lamb logo. A 14K gold rim surrounds the ceramic sub-dial, and blued steel leaf-style hour and minute hands indicate the time.

An impression from afar

I haven’t seen these watches in person yet, but from afar, they look absolutely stunning. Everything you see, from the case to both dials and the case back, is handmade. Think about the months of work that go into each one of these watches and all that could go wrong in the process. It’s beautiful to see how three artisans combine their skills to create three breathtaking versions within the Linea Editions. The choice of titanium is a surprising one, as it’s a material I associate more with purpose-built tool/dive watches. However, as James said, it works very well because of the contrast with the gold inlays. In terms of design, the Altair is my favorite. However, the Regent truly showcases what master engraver Joanne Ryall can do.

James Lamb’s Linea Editions are limited to the trio’s production capacity, and each watch costs €22,000. To find out about ordering one for yourself, please check James Lamb’s website.

Let me know in the comments below what you think of these handcrafted marvels.