Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 4 — Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Vs. Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026

As we continue our quest to find the definitive dress watch of 2025, it’s time for the fourth match of this first round of Fratello Dress Watch Season. Today, Nacho and Ben go head-to-head with two heritage-inspired contenders from Swatch Group brands. It’s the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 versus the Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026. Will it be the classically sized Omega that advances to the next round? Or will the Breguet’s single-handed charm take the win? The choice is yours, so be sure to read the case made for each watch and vote below.

For those of you late to the party, here’s a quick catch-up. It’s Dress Watch Season. Here at Fratello, we want to find the defining dress watch of 2025. We kicked things off with a general vote among 34 selected contenders. The Fratelli cast their votes, and the top eight watches made it to the showdown. We’ve already witnessed the first three matchups. The fourth contender to make it to the semifinals will be selected in today’s final battle of round one. So, once again, be sure to vote for the watch you’d like to see make it to the next round. Without further ado, it’s over to Nacho and Ben!

Nacho: Breguet Classique Souscription 2025

There’s something quietly powerful about the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. It doesn’t rely on flash or novelty. Instead, it draws from 250 years of horological heritage to deliver a watch that feels both timeless and deeply personal. Inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet’s original souscription (“subscription”) pocket watches, this modern reinterpretation brings that concept to the wrist with style, grace, and the watchmaking prowess that defines the brand. It’s no coincidence that Breguet chose this watch to kick off its 250th anniversary. Now, both the Breguet Classique and Omega Seamaster take inspiration from the past. Omega draws inspiration from classic dress watches within its Seamaster and Constellation families, dating back to the 1950s. On the other hand, the Breguet is inspired by a pocket watch from 1796. That in itself is a flex, as few brands can look back that far for inspiration.

The brand has masterfully reworked the concept of that timepiece and translated it into a wearable piece of its history. This transformation makes it feel like a new watch altogether. It maintains the original dial layout and single time-telling hand. This was a feature that Abraham-Louis Breguet incorporated into his souscription pocket watches to make reading the time as simple as possible. The combination of this watch’s 18K Breguet gold case, Grand Feu enamel dial, and heat-blued hand stands out, especially in contrast to the Seamaster’s more run-of-the-mill 1950s look. The Classique Souscription 2025 is not just elegant; it’s also a conversation piece. Take away the logo, and you’d still know you were looking at a Breguet. And that’s without even flipping it over to see the movement.

Celebrating 250 years of fine watchmaking

Like any Breguet watch, it’s not just the dial that’s worth talking about. As you flip the Classique Souscription 2025 over, you’ll notice the brushed mid-case and distinctive scroll-like shape of the lugs. The latter reminds me of the decorative capital of an Ionic column. You’ll also see the signed, oversized, and flattened onion crown, a nod to the pocket watches that inspired it.

The case back’s sapphire crystal is held within a decoratively engraved golden ring. However, you could be forgiven for not noticing that, as your eyes will likely be drawn directly to the Breguet VS00 movement. It’s a beautiful, golden landscape composed of wheels, bridges, screws, and springs. There’s a lot to take in.

This manual-winding caliber operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, offering an impressive 96-hour power reserve from a single barrel. It is equipped with 21 jewels and treated in gilded brass, finished in the same shade as Breguet gold. Each movement bears an individual number and the “Breguet” signature. It incorporates 12 blued steel screws and comes fitted with a patented Nivachron balance spring with a Breguet overcoil. The mainplate and bridges are finished with a fine blasted texture, and the ratchet wheel is engraved with a reproduction of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s writings. It’s as much of a joy to look at as it is to wind, something you’ll look forward to doing every three days or so.

Now, this is where I’d love to write about how this compares to the Omega’s movement. Unfortunately, that’s hidden behind a case back featuring a rather large golden depiction of the Milano Cortina Winter Olympics logo. I’m not sure about you, but I know what I’d rather look at.

Time on the wrist

With a 40mm diameter, the Classique Souscription 2025 is relatively large for a dress watch. That said, it’s the kind of watch you have to try on before condemning it on the merits of a single measurement. Having had it on my wrist, it’s far from unwieldy, especially with its 10.8mm profile. Its slim, downturned lugs make it wearable as an elegant dress watch. And though by no means petite, it has plenty of charm and presence. I’m also not sure how much sense a pocket-watch-inspired watch would make if it were a lot smaller. As you can see, on Daan’s slightly smaller 17cm (6.7″) wrist, it certainly doesn’t look one bit out of place.

Now, I will admit, today’s contenders are comparable. Both feature solid 18K gold cases and Grand Feu enamel dials. Overall, though, I find the Breguet to be a more elegant watch. Sure, at €53,800, it’s significantly more expensive than the €21,400 Seamaster, and the dimensions push the boundaries of traditional dress watches. However, details such as the movement, numeral typeface, one-handed dial layout, and deep-rooted heritage put it a cut above the Seamaster. By contrast, the Omega’s association with the Olympic Games makes it feel somewhat gimmicky and puts a slight damper on what would otherwise be a great vintage-inspired dress watch.

Vote Breguet!

There you have it, folks. I don’t think there’s much left to say. Breguet clearly went all out this year to mark its 250th anniversary. And though we’ll have to wait to see if the brand has left the best for last, I think that the strong start with the Classique Souscription 2025 remains my favorite, especially when compared to Omega’s dressy celebration of the 2026 Winter Olympic Games a year ahead of their start. While the Seamaster 37mm is certainly a nice watch, it’s far from the showstopper that the Classique Souscription is. I think most of you will agree. And if that is the case, be sure to vote for the Breguet. Now, over to Ben to make his case for the Omega.

Ben: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026

I find formal events quite awkward at first. You engage in small talk and try to find commonalities to make yourself sound interesting and elegant. An anecdote on recent stag do (or “bachelor party”) antics is probably not a good place to start, although, as lips loosen, it could be a funny story for the end of the night. But that’s why I find watches to be a great conversation icebreaker. So, if you’re wearing an interesting watch, such as the Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026, you will have plenty to talk about.

This 18K Moonshine Gold Seamaster continues a tradition of Omega releasing Olympic-themed timepieces somewhat prematurely. Such examples include five limited-edition Speedmasters that came out nearly three years before the Tokyo Olympic Games actually took place in 2021. Sure, Omega could not have predicted a one-year delay in the games, but the Tokyo Speedmasters were long sold out before any shot was put or any hammer was thrown. Omega announced this Seamaster a whole year before the 2026 Winter Olympics in Milan and Cortina. After this release came the new Speedmaster 38, marking the 100-day countdown to the opening ceremony. But this is a battle of dress watches, and a gold time-only wristwatch with an enamel dial and alligator leather strap certainly fits the bill.

A taste of optimism

That’s the brief, but what about the watch? First of all, the style is glorious. Making a round, three-hand watch that stands out is a considerable achievement. To grab attention, Omega leans on its past creations, invigorating a contemporary construction with vintage flair — namely, the aesthetic of the 1950s, which came with a sense of optimism. The most striking feature is the dog-leg lugs. This angular lug design highlights a functional yet often rudimentary element in wristwatches. By accentuating the lugs with exquisite polishing on all facets, Omega showcases high-quality design with an eye-catching appeal.

Getting toasty

Continuing the geometric styling is the hexagonal crown and raised 18K Moonshine Gold kite-shaped hour markers. Despite its angular form, this Seamaster remains a sophisticated and subtle watch. It’s perfect for sipping mulled wine in an alpine chalet during Milan’s winter events. Adding to the warmth is the off-white Grand Feu enamel dial. Enamel is tricky to work with and has a high failure rate, but the result is a dial with an everlasting sheen and depth. Another aspect is the handmade feeling of the dial. Even experienced enamelers will leave tiny maker’s marks on the dial when applying glass paste and heating it to a very high temperature.

Adding to the tricky dial material is gray Petit Feu enamel for the minute hashes and vintage cursive Seamaster logo. This gray shade reduces the contrast and makes the Seamaster appear less clinical than if it were black against a bright white dial. All these details result in a comforting and warm charm that complements the post-slope alpine lifestyle. Flipping the watch over is where I may lose some ground to the Breguet. The solid 18K Moonshine Gold case back is wonderfully finished with a grainy base surface. But let’s be honest: this Olympic logo is not the most stylish. To me, it looks like an uppercase “Z” and lowercase “b” instead of “26.” There were plenty of naysayers for the London 2012 logo, which is still contentious. Yet, people do seem to remember the logo’s design more than if it were a bit more traditional and generic.

Vote Omega!

Another contentious element is that the solid case back conceals Omega’s caliber 8807. This is a well-decorated movement with a 55-hour power reserve and 35 jewels, and it deserves an exhibition window. The embossed logo on the back also adds a bit more thickness to the case. Featuring a raised, boxy vintage-style sapphire crystal, this Seamaster has an 11.35mm profile. This dimension is on the top end of the scale when it comes to time-only dress watches. But it’s the angular details, including the razor-sharp dauphine hands with sumptuous polishing, that give the watch its luster. The old-school Omega logo and warm enamel palette also distinguish the Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 as a dynamic and refreshing dress watch for the modern collector. It is definitely worthy of your vote.

Time to vote

So, you’ve heard both Nacho and Ben’s cases for their contenders. Will it be the celebratory and storied Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 that gets your vote? Or will the classic looks and proportions of the Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 tip the scales? Only you can decide. Be sure to cast your vote below, and join us next week for the first matchup in the semifinal round!