Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 — Jorg’s Picks From Serica, RZE, And Traska

Leaving the obvious and going for different

March 25, 2024

comments 41

Well, after much deliberation, I’ve found what I subjectively consider the three best watches under €1,000 today. As Fratello’s resident list nerd, that should be a walk in the park, right? I have made tons of lists, including multiple ones about watches in this price category. But finding the five or ten best currently available watches in a certain price bracket is inherently different than finding the three watches that I love and would buy. The truth is, we are simply spoiled for choice. Now, let me explain my picks for this list.

Thomas, RJ, and Daan already had a go in this series of articles. After reading their lists, I was happy to find that they picked none of my options. Robert-Jan did pick the brilliant Christopher Ward C65 Dune Automatic. It deserves to be one of the watches we pick, but I’d prefer to buy it on the bracelet. Unfortunately, doing that brings the price to €1,165, making it too expensive. So what watches would I go for, then?

Picking the best watches under €1,000

First, I had to solve two puzzles. If you were to wake me up in the middle of the night and ask me what watch I would buy for €1,000, the answer would be the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80. It’s the obvious answer because the watch is truly extraordinary. I own a black-dial version and love that watch dearly. It looks amazing, has a reliable movement, and punches way above its weight class. As I said in my review, the watch gives you the feeling of wearing a proper luxury watch three times more expensive than its current €795 list price. But in the intro to this article, I mentioned that I wanted to pick watches I would buy. As I already own a PRX and have featured it many times before, I decided to skip it for this list.

The second puzzle to solve was whether I would want to pick three watches sharing a theme. Some of you will know I am very interested in GMT watches, so that would be an easy theme for this list. But that would also mean I’d close my eyes to many other great options, which I didn’t want to do. Unsurprisingly, GMTs are a part of the list, but I chose to keep an open perspective. All right, I have rambled for too long already. Without further ado, here is my list of the best watches under €1,000!

RZE Fortitude GMT

My immediate first pick was the RZE Fortitude GMT. I had the pleasure of wearing this watch not too long ago for a hands-on review. As I explained in the article, I wore this watch constantly despite having the chance to review some heavy hitters in the office. Everything about the Fortitude GMT is done right, making this a no-brainer as the perfect sub-€1,000 travel watch.

The Fortitude GMT features a 41mm satin-finished Grade 2 titanium case with a 12mm thickness, 47mm lug-to-lug length, 20mm lug spacing, and 100m water resistance rating. It comes on a super comfortable titanium bracelet with a fully machined clasp and an easy-to-use toolless micro-adjustment mechanism with four positions.

The design of the Fortitude stands out thanks to its many details, which give it a distinct presence that I fell in love with. The knurled bezel immediately draws the eye, but so does the sandwich dial with its grainy texture and crosshair flowing nicely into the date window’s frame. Additionally, the oversized crown balances out nicely against the round-shaped case.

The 24-hour GMT scale is placed on the rehaut, with the yellow GMT hand indicating the home time. Overall, there’s quite a bit going on here, but it all makes perfect sense once you have the watch on your wrist. Inside the case, RZE equips the watch with the Miyota 9075 flyer-style GMT movement, which offers 42 hours of power reserve. I suggest you read my review to find out more about this brilliant RZE Fortitude GMT, and you will understand why this watch was my immediate first pick at a spectacular pre-order price of US$649 (roughly €600).

Traska Venturer GMT

My next pick is the Traska Venturer GMT. Yes, it’s another GMT, but it’s an absolute beauty of a watch. Traska has quickly become a well-known name among watch fans. The Floridian microbrand released the Venturer in late 2022. Vincent’s review of it came online in early 2023, and he was impressed by what the watch had to offer.

It has a 38.5mm stainless steel case that is around 12.5mm with the domed crystal, 46mm long, and 20mm between the lugs. The watch is also water resistant to 150 meters and has a screw-down crown and case back. For a watch with this movement and specs, a 12.5mm total thickness is quite reasonable, and it’s only about half a millimeter thicker than the Rolex GMT-Master II.

The Venturer GMT was one of the first non-Citizen Group watches equipped with the Miyota 9075 caliber that also powers the RZE Fortitude. This flyer-style GMT caliber seems like it’s gradually taking over the microbrand universe. Traska was an early adopter of this movement, and it helped make the Venturer GMT a big success.

The watch was initially available with four dial options (white, black, blue, and dark green) and fitted with a stainless steel bracelet with an on-the-fly micro-adjustable clasp. Later, the brand added a mint-green dial option that looked super sexy. If you have followed Traska, you know that all Venturer models sold out quickly. However, the brand will bring back the first four dial colors on April 7th. That is when you can reserve your Venturer GMT for US$720 (approximately €677). I will probably join some of you to ensure I can get one.

Serica 6190 Field Chronometer

My last pick is the Serica 6190 Field Chronometer introduced last year. This updated version of Serica’s 4512 field watch features a series of great updates that make a great watch even better. The most important changes are the redesigned case and dials and the updated COSC-certified automatic movement that replaces its predecessor’s hand-wound caliber.

What has stayed is that incredible vintage charm that made the 4512 such a great watch. In my opinion, Serica updated the design brilliantly while connecting the new 6190 to the brand’s 5303 diver and 8312 GMT through the new chamfered lugs. The case has become less chunky at 37.7mm wide and 10.4mm thick. It’s a nice case with a slim profile that sits nicely on the wrist.

When it comes to the dials, Serica offers three variants. The first is the Commando dial, which has a full set of Arabic-numeral hour markers. The second is the Denali dial, featuring the brand’s trademark lume dots placed further toward the dial’s center. Lastly, there is the updated California dial. My favorite is the pictured Denali dial with the typical Serica style that adds more charm.

Inside the case, the COSC-certified automatic Soprod M100 has a 42-hour power reserve and replaces the manual-winding STP1-11 of the 4512. The 6190 Field Chronometer comes with an updated stainless steel Bonklip bracelet that is comfortable and has a distinct presence. At €990, this is the full package. Most of all, the 6190 Field Chronometer has a ton of standout character, which is crucial in a universe of watches with similar designs.

Two quick honorable mentions

Besides my top three picks, I have two honorable mentions. The Certina DS Action Diver Titanium is a fantastic modern dive watch with plenty of character to stand out from the crowd and deliver gloriously on specs. There’s just one problem: on the bracelet (as pictured), the watch costs €1,095, so it doesn’t qualify. However, on the black and turquoise NATO strap, it comes in at €995, making it the perfect honorable mention. Sure, you’d want to get this watch on the bracelet, especially since it’s only €100 more expensive. But seeing those amazing looks with the combination of the darker titanium color with the brown bezel insert and the blue lume, there is no reason not to mention it.

Another option I would love to mention is the Nezumi Aviera GMT. Thor reviewed the watch last June, and at the time, it used the Seiko NH34 caliber. But the Swedish brand recently updated this watch with the Miyota 9075 flyer-style GMT movement that powers the first two picks on this list. Nezumi offers this incredible vintage-inspired watch with a great set of hands that looks stunning, especially when paired with the off-white Malta FKM rubber strap that matches the lume color. At €490 (before taxes and shipping) on the rubber strap, it is worth mentioning the Aviera GMT to close out my subjective list of the best watches under €1,000.

There you have it — my list of three options plus two bonuses. What are your thoughts on the watches I picked? Let me know in the comments section, and keep an eye out for more articles in this series soon.

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 — Jorg’s Picks From Serica, RZE, And Traska

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Andrew says:

Mar 25, 2024 at 08:49

My only comment on this list is that I recently bought a related Traska (The Commuter 34). I was truly impressed with the quality for the price asked. A really nice watch, and I’m sure that the GMT watch featured here will be as well made and finished.

Reply
1. DG
  GoldenYears says:
  
  Mar 25, 2024 at 12:59
  
  Hi Andrew,
  What color dial did you get?
  Thanks. 😊
  
  Reply
  1. Andrew says:
    
    Mar 25, 2024 at 13:33
    
    Sandstone yellow. A bit different but I like it! It’s a muted yellow- not in your face.
    
    Reply
    1. DG
      GoldenYears says:
      
      Mar 25, 2024 at 13:38
      
      Good to know. Thanks, Andrew. 👍🏻
      
      Reply
  2. Andrew says:
    
    Mar 25, 2024 at 14:14
    
    I bought my Commuter 34 to replace a 34mm Rolex Air King which I foolishly sold about 9 years ago (a big mistake as my tastes have got simpler over time!) I thought that the Traska would be a poor substitute, but not at all!
    I have a 36mm Datejust, and it was interesting to make a detail comparison of the Traska with the Datejust. Obviously, the Traska has a cheaper, non chronometer movement, so there is no arguing that the Rolex is superior in that department. But does one always need a chronometer watch?
    But in some other ways, the Traska is superior (in my opinion) to the Rolex. The Rolex has an all-polished case (except for the back) with an OK-ish transition between surfaces, but not as sharp as a Grand Seiko. The Traska has polished flanks and a brushed top surface to case and lugs, with a very nicely resolved transition between the two- closer to GS than Rolex. And then the Traska bezel has a radial brushing which looks very cool in an “engineering” sort of way.
    On close examination of the dial, the Traska holds up well against the Rolex also. The Datejust has identical length minute and seconds hands which just touch the inside of the minute markers, the Traska has a second hand slightly longer, so that the minute hand touches the inside of the minute markers and the second hand the outside of the markers- it’s very neat.
    Bracelet wise, I like the Traska. The links are solid but less thick (and therefore lighter) than the Datejust, and the female end links versus the male on the Rolex makes the Traska bracelet fit very comfortably. Cool also is that the Traska bracelet “concertinas” in on itself to make a dense and compact “brick” which is great to store when travelling.
    And then overall, the Traska appears less “shiny” than the Rolex due to greater use of brushed finishes. How you feel about that is an individual taste. I’m beginning to feel that Rolex’s are getting too shiny, so I prefer the more muted look. And the thinner movement in the Traska means that the watch is overall thinner than the Datejust. I don’t have a 34mm Air King to measure against, but I suspect the Traska is again thinner. When you get down to 34mm watches, the thickness becomes much more critical to stop a watch looking out of proportion, and the proportions of the Traska are really well resolved.
    So, of course the Traska is not a Rolex, but for the money you are paying, it is really nicely made, and my Commuter 34 has stopped me missing my old Air King.
    
    Reply
    1. DG
      GoldenYears says:
      
      Mar 25, 2024 at 19:28
      
      Thanks, Andrew. Appreciate all your perspectives and insights as an owner.
      Means a lot, thanks. 😊
      
      Reply
AC
Ade_C says:

Mar 25, 2024 at 09:11

“But yes, you read that right: the Venturer GMT is only 10mm thick.” Why are Fratello perpetuating this marketing fluff? Consumers rely on you to give the full story which this isn’t. The case is 10mm but that’s without the crystal. Reviewers that have got calipers out seem to list its total thickness as anywhere between 11.9mm and 12.5mm. It ‘s still excellent and in the same realm as the benchmark Rolex GMT but lets not pretend it’s somehow magically thinner than the benchmark.

Reply
1. Brandon says:
  
  Mar 25, 2024 at 09:25
  
  Thank you for pointing that out, and as the copy editor, I apologize for letting that slip through. I have updated the text.
  
  Reply
2. Enuona says:
  
  Mar 25, 2024 at 10:48
  
  You’d have to add 11.8mm to the list of possibly wrong measurements by bloggers.
  
  It is not a marketing bluff, and 10mm is not a case measurement. Case and bezel combined is 10mm.
  
  That’s what Traska provides in their spec drawing for the watch. 38.5, 46, 20 and 10.
  
  For the Commuter 38 their drawing shows 8.75mm case+bezel, the difference apparently caused by both a different bezel and sapphire as it needs less space being short of GMT/hands/rehaut.
  
  They are sold out by the way, and opens a reservation window for the Venturer Sunday April 7th.
  
  Not sure I’d pick a mint green for short term ownership though, it’s the last one available of the last commuter 38 (batch), and whilst pricing may have something to do with it (I consider the price fair and not a showstopper), it seems like the mint green venturer is harder to move on than other colours. Less versatile in my book.
  
  Reply
  1. AC
    Ade_C says:
    
    Mar 25, 2024 at 11:08
    
    How about we just say that the metal bits are a verified 10mm thick and the glass bits add an unverified 1.8-2.5mm? This may be because bloggers can’t use calipers correctly but it could just as easily be because the crystal fitting process on a budget product simply isn’t consistent enough to declare a verified total thickness for the watch to 0.1mm.
    
    Reply
    1. Enuona says:
      
      Mar 25, 2024 at 11:43
      
      I don’t really care. Only responded because you claimed there were some marketing mumbo jumbo. Which it isn’t.
      
      For these, the mm’s in question doesn’t matter to me at all in practical terms, it got more to do with the aesthetics and visual impression. For that I’d rather look at reviews and good pictures/video of the watch on a wrist more or less resembling mine and with clothing/cuffs resembling what I’d wear, than adding mm’s of sapphire. If it looks bad, it probably isn’t for you. Or me. Regardless of mm sapphire.
      
      My pick from Traska would be the white Commuter 38.5 which as far as I’m aware has the same thickness as the 34 and 36 (all are 8.75mm + sapphire, I haven’t bothered to check out the sapphire which may be different as one can use thinner for same strength at a smaller diameter).
      
      The difference between them at same thickness is that the 38.5 appears slimmer and is sleeker due to the thickness/diameter ratio. Chubby, normal, sleek. In appearance.
      
      Reply
      1. Andrew says:
        
        Mar 25, 2024 at 13:38
        
        The other plus about Traska is the bracelet. It’s nicely tapered and with female end links. It makes it fit really comfortably. It’s great value for what you are paying.
        I know that the Commuter looks a bit like a knock off of a certain product from the Crown, but it is very nicely detailed and there are some elements which are better considered than in that much more expensive watch- the female end links on the bracelet and the lengths of the hand set and their interaction with the chapter ring as two examples.
        
        Reply
        
        DG
        GoldenYears says:
        
        Mar 25, 2024 at 14:44
        
        Thanks for sharing, Andrew.
        
        I actually like that the Commuter looks like a certain unnamed product 🤪 from the Crown. I also appreciate that it’s a 34mm watch with 100 m WR.
        
        If I could go back a few years, I would buy the white dial 34mm Oyster Perpetual. I didn’t buy it because of the movement but in hindsight that was flawed reasoning.
        
        Reply
        
        Enuona says:
        
        Mar 25, 2024 at 14:49
        
        The looks is pretty generic, and I don’t really think they can be confused with the “claimed owner” of such designs. It would have bothered me if I were to walk around with “a fake” with a different logo, and some brands does that.
        
        Worth mentioning that the 34 uses a different clasp to the Venturer , Seafarer and Commuter 38/36, without the micro adjustment, but most commenters seems very pleased with the bracelets for the price and above. I would probably keep these on the bracelet.
        
        Hopefully, they will provide a similar clasp to the 34 at a later stage.
        
        I consider them good value for money.
        
        I’m not really that into bracelets as a preference, but one thing I’d like to see more of would be clasps having the same width as the bracelet.
        
        Reply
        
        DG
        GoldenYears says:
        
        Mar 25, 2024 at 19:33
        
        I’m not a bracelet lover either and I have a number of 19mm leather straps collecting dust. 😊
        
        Reply
        
        Enuona says:
        
        Mar 25, 2024 at 20:07
        
        If the Nick Mankey hookstraps works out, I probably will stick to those for field/diver/tool.
        
        I was looking for organic cotton/hemp straps for a while, but ran into synthetics everywhere. They wear out faster, but straps are consumption parts and fine if not stretching their life cyclus. The comfier they get, the harder to toss away…
        
        Reply
  2. DG
    GoldenYears says:
    
    Mar 25, 2024 at 19:30
    
    The mint green dial is too trendy in my opinion with very short-term appeal.
    
    Reply
    1. Enuona says:
      
      Mar 25, 2024 at 20:02
      
      Yeah, that’s my idea of it too.
      
      Available 2nd hand in good condition for months at fair price, no one is having a go at it, whilst Commuters and Venturers in other colours vanishes as soon as the price is right.
      
      A similar thing with the coloured Sinn 556 iterations, the owners expect a premium for limited editions, but they just don’t move in this market. They’ll probably will close to normal 556 2nd hand prices as they are well treated, but I wouldn’t go for it unless the intention is enduring ownership. Those have nicer hands/indices though. Applied, not printed.
      
      As far as colours and trends goes, grey has been prominent for a long time now. Cars, furniture, buildings outside/inside. I believe that has been exploited long enough, and if grey was/is a megatrend, I think of it as on the rebound. Would not purchase grey dial watches unless I thought of it as exceptional. And that’s not to be found within my budget brackets 🤣 If paintshops want to sell paint, they’ll have to get on with a new trend.
      
      I’d stick to boring colours for Traskas. Subtile is a great feature for Commuters. Would have liked off-white/ivory/eggshell but as it is now, the very white would be it. A tad too much shine from the black dial edition. Almost matte would be better.
      
      Reply
      1. DG
        GoldenYears says:
        
        Mar 25, 2024 at 20:41
        
        So what color dial for the 34mm Commuter?
        
        Reply
        
        Enuona says:
        
        Mar 25, 2024 at 21:30
        
        The one most to my taste would be the Sandstone Yellow with Aegan Blue number 2. It is a bit too yellow in my opinion, but I have seen a (very) few pictures that might indicate that it is somewhat less pronounced in reality.
        
        The colour is very different on the pictures taken by Fratello than on their site. It kind of baffles me, as I have a hard time figuring out whether it is the same watch with the same dial or not.
        
        If the Fratello pics are representative, I have no hesitation about the Sandstone Yellow colour whatsoever. The Traska pics makes me more reluctant. Then again, the photos of the BP FF Act III had me confused in a similar manner.
        
        Have a look at the Fratello pics:
        https://www.fratellowatches.com/hands-on-with-the-new-traska-commuter-34-and-38/
        
        Reply
        
        DG
        GoldenYears says:
        
        Mar 25, 2024 at 22:23
        
        Yes, I saw those and other pictures. Thanks.
        
        For me, it’s either the sandstone yellow or the agean blue as well. Sure wish white, black and gray would be available. I’ve come to the conclusion that any watch below 1,000 € is going to be a compromise and tradeoffs need to be made. Either that or I need to spend a whole lot more.
        
        Reply
MG
maciej-g says:

Mar 25, 2024 at 09:20

It’s cool to see the Oris PPX bezel being copied by… sorry–inspiring others;-)

Reply
1. Kitab_Paul_Shah says:
  
  Mar 25, 2024 at 10:47
  
  They say imitation is the highest form of flattery!
  
  Reply
MB
MarkBu says:

Mar 25, 2024 at 10:27

Three strong contenders and I can’t pick a fault in any of them although I’d definitely have the Serica with the ‘Commando’ dial layout. That Nezumi looks like a considerable amount of watch for the money.

Reply
1. Enuona says:
  
  Mar 25, 2024 at 11:07
  
  I’d go (9 o’clock) commando as well. Besides, that’s healthy in tropical areas too. Sarongs are great.
  
  Don’t really need GMT, but I keep the 38 Commuter on my list within this price bracket. Would be interested to see a PM80 competitor to that one besides the Murph.
  
  Reply
  1. DG
    GoldenYears says:
    
    Mar 25, 2024 at 19:34
    
    Would you choose a Commuter over a 38mm Murph?
    
    Reply
    1. Enuona says:
      
      Mar 25, 2024 at 20:59
      
      I find that a difficult choice really.
      
      Would most certainly prefer PM80 to Miyota as I never ever would have expected such precision at this level. If I hadn’t experienced it, I simply wouldn’t have believed it.
      
      I picture both as a supplement to dive/field and not a replacement, and I picture the Commuter as more versatile on this side of suit’n tie, as a daily beater. Less sensitive to scratches (regardless of being hardened), whereas I believe the Murph might get more of a tired look than the appearance of “provenance”.
      
      It will also be nice to break with black dials – which I prefer for field/dive, steel blue or most likely white would be legible enough for a daily, and it comes on a half decent bracelet, which provides variation.
      
      So….. I’d probably pick the 38 Commuter wishing it had PM80 inside.
      
      ….besides, the will leave me with an excuse to explore vintage Omegas for suit and tie – which I almost never wear 🤣
      
      …at a different level and at a very different budget, what I picture for this usage segment is actually Thomas’ green VPC. That one really chalks off a lot of boxes and keeps growing on me. I know. Budget brackets.
      
      Reply
      1. DG
        GoldenYears says:
        
        Mar 25, 2024 at 22:25
        
        Hmmm. Thanks. 👍🏻😊
        
        Reply
DG
GoldenYears says:

Mar 25, 2024 at 10:38

My first choice from Jurg’s choices would be his “honorable mention” – the Certina DS Action Titanium on the NATO strap. I don’t like the long male end links on the Titanium bracelet so having it on a NATO strap is my first choice of straps. For me, I could walk into a local watch shop and buy it for a 20% discount and have a two year walk in warranty and super inexpensive service and maintenance costs. I could avoid VAT, customs fees, etc. by buying locally.

My second choice (mentioned in the comments) would be Andrew’s Traska Commuter 34. This pick is out of my comfort zone but it’s on my short list of microbrand watches I might buy. Just wish they offered a 34mm version with a black, dark grey or ivory dial.

Reply
1. Enuona says:
  
  Mar 25, 2024 at 11:15
  
  Traska tends to update their dials once in a while, but I don’t know how well the 34 is doing. All iterations are still available, which may be an indication of different Traskas selling faster. My impression is that they sell out before making new batches, and if they are slow sellers, they would likely change dial colours or drop it. Just speculation.
  
  Reply
  1. DG
    GoldenYears says:
    
    Mar 25, 2024 at 12:57
    
    Yes, thanks. Traska if you’re reading this …how about the 34mm Commuter in Arctic White or Jet Black?
    
    Reply
2. JASON P says:
  
  Mar 25, 2024 at 14:51
  
  I’ve been so interested in the Commuter in 34mm that I signed up to Traska’s newsletter, which said that the 34mm Commuter was selling quite bad. Infact, I’m sure it inferred that they wouldn’t be making any more in that size ( even though it’s ‘my type of watch’, it’s no wonder other brands don’t pursue such a design). I too wished they had made a slate grey .
  
  The only things putting me off is a) any issues then returning from over the pond & b) the rotor issue of the Miyota movement. I’ll just have to save up for the crown version…possibly…
  
  Reply
  1. DG
    GoldenYears says:
    
    Mar 25, 2024 at 19:45
    
    Hmm. Thanks for the insight. Interesting that Traska may stop making the 34mm size Commuter. In my opinion, there aren’t very many good 34mm watches under € 5,000. I wish there were more.
    
    I recently returned a watch to France. Besides the cost of returning the watch with insurance one also has to pay VAT on the watch going back. Unless the watch is truly defective, I would be reluctant to send it back.
    
    Reply
  2. Enuona says:
    
    Mar 25, 2024 at 20:28
    
    The Miyota rattle or hum…. Not sure whether it is louder through the grapevine than on the wrist, and some are more sensible to this kind of noise than others.
    
    Probably wouldn’t bother me for a daily driver like these. For field usage, it may be considered a drawback as wildlife may react to it. I like to observe natural behaviour rather than influence their reactions.
    
    Reply
    1. Andrew says:
      
      Mar 25, 2024 at 21:43
      
      If it helps to think this way, a unidirectional winding rotor is a very smart choice, technically. In use, they wind pretty much as well as a bidirectional rotor, and making it unidirectional avoids a lot of engineering complexity, wear components and bulk.
      And unidirectional rotors are nothing new- the ETA/Valjoux 7750 has had a unidirectional rotor from its inception decades ago.
      Making the rotor unidirectional is one of the reasons that the Miyota 9-series is so thin, and that’s a good thing…..
      
      Reply
      1. Enuona says:
        
        Mar 25, 2024 at 22:39
        
        I’m rather pragmatic to it in daily life, but I sometimes am in situations where wildlife comes really close, and they react to mechanical noises. I’m normally careful to ensure wind is towards me from the wildlife which reduces the effect of the noises, but I prefer to avoid the risks as they sometimes comes very close. Not that much at it anymore, but I want gear to be up for it.
        
        Reply
DA
DavidA says:

Mar 25, 2024 at 12:30

Not interested in a Serica + Soprod union until I’m certain the issues that affected the Newton are fully ended.

Reply
1. Andrew says:
  
  Mar 25, 2024 at 14:25
  
  The Soprod M100 is based off the Seiko 4L series, which Seiko licensed out. It is a nice movement and should be trouble free. It’s a close equivalent to the ETA 2892/ Sellita 300, albeit with a different “Japanese” architecture.
  The Newton, by comparison, was an in-house design intended for a lower price point, and as you say, has not been without issues.
  I would be sufficiently confident to buy the M100 were I shopping for another watch (which I’m not- I’m downsizing- mostly….!)
  
  Reply
ES
Neloms says:

Mar 25, 2024 at 15:56

Couldn’t agree more about Traska and Serica, two of my favorite micros! Summiteer is in the mail.

Reply
RW
Richard says:

Mar 25, 2024 at 16:41

Excellent list, Jorg. All excellent choices. The only one I would have added is the Raven/Nodus TrailTrekker. The watch looks excellent, in a unique colorway.

Reply
1. Enuona says:
  
  Mar 25, 2024 at 18:09
  
  Haven’t looked into Raven and their collabs, but having taken a liking to Nodus in the past, the brand provided me with an opinion as far as microbrand caveats goes. I know it’s no walk in the park, but still:
  
  If someone (me) identifies a watch for purchase, someone (me) becomes annoyed when it is gone (fast), not being able to figure out when it will return or if it will return and if it will return, what to expect.
  
  I get that designing watches is great fun, but if there is no consistency, repeatability or predictability, their watches can be good/great/fantastic and it doesn’t matter. Can’t be bothered.
  
  As far as good/great designs goes, if a (micro)brand comes up with something good, it is generally a fairly good idea to keep it and carefully hone it to perfection. Big changes, and it deserves to be reconsidered more or less as a completely new design. No common design language, different dials, different hands, different indices, different cases, different crowns, different lugs, different bezels.
  
  That’s where I believe something is to be learned from Traska. They got off to a good start and are getting increasingly better on honing their designs and improving details, steadily improving and broadening the availability of watches (stock). That’s why I believe they stand a good chance of establishing themselves as survivors. RZE apparently tries the same thing with some of their watches. Progress in a predictable direction.
  
  I have no idea where the Nodus rabbit jumps, and I don’t belive the Nodus rabbit knows either. I have no idea about their economy historically or present, but I do seem to remember they earned themselves respect from a wider microbrand audience before Traska did?
  
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