Trying On New Colorways Of Two Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Models
Hamilton has a rich tradition of creating rugged military tool watches, and the Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer line is a prime example of this heritage. This collection draws from both World War II navigation instruments and the practical wristwatches delivered to pilots in the decades that followed. Today, we take a closer look at two refreshed references within this collection, the 38mm Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer and the 40mm Mechanical Chrono.
Both Hamilton watches have received new dial and strap combinations worthy of a closer look. Join me, then, to give them just that!
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer history
The Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer models pay direct tribute to Hamilton’s legacy in military aviation timekeeping. During World War II, the brand produced the Model 23 chronograph pocket watch for US Air Force navigators, setting a benchmark for reliability under demanding conditions. This functional DNA carried over into later pilot’s watches worn by military aviators worldwide. Famous models from the Vietnam War might ring a bell with enthusiasts.
The modern Pilot Pioneer collection channels this heritage through vintage design cues, including box-shaped sapphire crystals, large Arabic numerals, and overall case shapes. Today, the collection consists of many competitively priced models, most of which are vintage- and military-inspired.
The two watches I’ll go hands-on with today are both new colorways of existing models. Since we haven’t all memorized the entire Hamilton catalog, let’s start with a quick refresher course on both watches.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chrono
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph has a 40mm by 49.8mm stainless steel case with a 14.3mm thickness and a 22mm lug spacing. Its brushed surfaces contrast with the polished pushers and crown, while a box-shaped sapphire crystal with double antireflective coating provides a vintage-style view of the dial beneath. Hamilton rates the watch’s water resistance to an ample 10 bar (100 meters).
Inside ticks Hamilton’s H-51-Si caliber, a hand-wound mechanical chronograph movement offering a 60-hour power reserve and a 28,800vph beat rate. The silicon balance spring ensures added resistance to magnetism. This Hamilton caliber finds its technical roots in the Valjoux 7753.
Today’s new Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph comes with your choice of two options — a vegetable-tanned brown leather strap or a stainless steel mesh bracelet with a folding clasp. My press sample came on the leather strap, as you can see in the pictures.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer specs
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer takes a more compact approach while upping the vintage vibes. Its stainless steel case offers a 38mm diameter, an 11.4mm profile, and an 18mm lug spacing. Here, too, the water resistance is rated at 100 meters. Again, we find a sapphire crystal on top, featuring a double antireflective coating. Surrounding the crystal is a bidirectional bezel. Feel free to use it for dead reckoning, timing your pizza, or both.
Inside ticks Hamilton’s H-10 automatic caliber at a reduced 21,600vph. This movement provides a Swatch Group-standard 80-hour power reserve and uses a Nivachron balance spring. The spartan caliber is also visible through a display case back.
While the model already existed in black, we now get variants with dark green or burgundy bezels and eggshell dials. My sample, as you can see, is the green one.
The new colors
OK, on to today’s news — the colorways. Let me start with the chronograph. While the original came in matte black with a large dose of faux patina, the new model comes in a sunburst blue with crisp white. The result is markedly different, looking fresh, modern, and significantly less retro. While the look may not completely gel with the vintage military theme, I find the watch very appealing. It looks a little more authentic and original without the beige lume.
The Pilot Pioneer in dark green is an interesting offering. The eggshell dial and the cool shade of green give it a very classical look. It somehow reminds me of old leather-clad hand-bound books. The combination is quite original, and I cannot think of any other watch with this precise pairing of eggshell and green. I do wonder if you wouldn’t perhaps tire of it, though, since it is quite outspoken.
In a sense, these releases go in very different directions. The chronograph in blue is a fresher, more modern version of an existing model. The Pilot Pioneer, on the other hand, turns a vintage-style watch even more old-world. Chances are, one of these approaches will resonate with you.
Closing thoughts
With the latest additions, the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer series gets even broader. While it is unlikely that all models will be to your taste, there should be something for everyone within the large scope of offerings.
Both the 38mm automatic and the 40mm hand-wound chronograph remain solid choices, offered at competitive prices. The chronograph comes in at CHF 1,995 on leather and CHF 2,075 on the mesh bracelet. Meanwhile, the Pilot Pioneer costs CHF 950.
For enthusiasts seeking an accessible, historically grounded pilot’s watch with modern reliability, these latest Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer models continue to make a compelling case. In my book, the chronograph especially makes for an appealing offering.
What do you think of these new Hamilton Pilot Pioneer series colors? Let us know in the comments section below.
