Hands-On With The New Pragma P1 – Perseverance In Solar Stainless Steel And Tantalum With A New Azurite-Blue Dial

In the case of Pragma, being called a goody two-shoes is a plus. Typically, the moniker describes someone who is prudish and self-righteous. A goody two-shoes is an ambitious overachiever striving to be perfect; remember that one teacher’s pet in your class in high school who nobody liked? Behaving excessively virtuously can be off-putting in personal interactions. Still, when a manufacturer gives its all to outdo and outshine the competition in different fields of the watchmaking realm, it becomes admirable. After all, the result of its ambitions is a silent object rather than an uncommonly good and therefore annoying person who’s probably too vocal. Let’s find out if the new Swiss Pragma P1 – Perseverance in solar stainless steel and tantalum, featuring an azurite-blue dial, is a bearable goody-two-shoes watch.

When you exceed the standards for “Swiss Made” certification by producing watches 100% manufactured in Switzerland from 82.7% recycled materials, you’re behaving like the teacher’s pet. Nobody wants to sit next to you, nobody wants to be your friend, but since Pragma is a watch brand, not a classmate, those are not necessarily limiting factors for successful living. On the contrary, in a competitive world, standing out gets you noticed. Still, in a highly emotional and subjective world, such as luxury watchmaking, objectively presenting the highest “grades” isn’t a mathematical formula leading to the highest success rate. Let’s find out if the goody-two-shoes Pragma P1 – Perseverance in solar stainless steel and tantalum is a watch you want to befriend, no matter how overtly ambitious it is.

Pragma P1 – Perseverance in solar stainless steel and tantalum

For the full story on Pragma, please read the introduction article from June 2024. In short, Pragma believes that transparency is fundamental to integrity and essential for earning the trust of its customers. This commitment begins with 100% recycled solar steel sourced from Panatere, produced in the company’s two solar furnaces at its La Chaux-de-Fonds facility. The steel is used for the cases and pin buckles, developed in collaboration with Voutilainen & Cattin. Comblémine manufactures the finely detailed, graphic CuZn28 brass dials, featuring applied gold indexes. These two-part indexes are carefully designed to complement the industrial-style hands, as well as the distinctive sub-seconds display at 6 o’clock and the date window at 12, resulting in a highly cohesive aesthetic. Completing the watch, Atelier du Bracelet supplies the Cordura re/cor straps made entirely from 100% recycled materials.

The automatic, chronometer-precise caliber Pragma 1031-1 is the result of a collaboration with Chronode. The 272-part movement looks fantastic and boasts 100% recycled Grade 5 titanium bridges and plates, with the variable-inertia balance sourced from either Atokalpa or Nivarox, while Crelier crafts the jewels. It’s a 4Hz movement with a central, open-worked rotor and a power reserve of 60 hours. The movement’s design language is very much in line with the look of the case. The P1 – Perseverance, as a sporty luxury watch, also has a practical 50m water resistance rating

Complete transparency is the hallmark of Pragma. When you examine the young brand’s website, you will find full disclosure regarding the origin of the materials, the manufacturing processes, and the suppliers used. You will also learn how the brand uses 82.7% recycled materials for this watch.

Steel, tantalum, and a lavender-blue dial?

The latest iteration of the Pragma P1 – Perseverance subtly utilizes two metals — steel and tantalum. The case is made of steel, while the intermediate case, case back, and crown are crafted from tantalum. The heavy tantalum adds a bit of weight, resulting in a 66g watch (including the strap), but it also provides a subtle visual twist. The matte alloy, with its dark gray color, contrasts nicely with the polished steel parts, most visible when viewed from the front of the watch. When you take a closer look at the side of the case, you will notice how four tantalum parts from the intermediate case create a look somewhat similar to Japanese wood-joinery techniques. These subtleties are a clear sign that Pragma is not about cutting corners.

Apart from the addition of tantalum, the dial is also new. Pragma calls the hue “azurite” after the deep blue copper carbonate mineral, but I can’t help but think of lavender when I look at it. The slight sparkle, however, is more like a mineral than a flower.

The two vertically placed sub-dials of the P1 – Perseverance are contrasting eye-catchers. The one at 12 o’clock displays the date, and the one at 6 shows the seconds. Instead of using traditional hands, Pragma’s co-founder and designer, Kai-Hsuan Liu, came up with two turning discs featuring a radial groove and a recess to reveal the date or act as a seconds hand. He’s also responsible for the long, two-part markers and the matching, industrial-looking hands. It results in an integral design that’s modern without being futuristic.

The steel and tantalum Pragma P1 – Perseverance on the wrist

Wearing the steel/tantalum P1 – Perseverance wasn’t all that different from wearing the purple-dial all-steel version I tried earlier this year. I didn’t weigh that watch, but it must have been lighter because of the absence of tantalum. FYI, tantalum has a density of about 16.69 g/cm³, making it roughly twice as dense as standard steel (around 7.75-8.05 g/cm³).

Ensuring wrist comfort is a case with a 39mm diameter, a 10.4mm thickness, and a 47.5mm lug-to-lug. These dimensions tell of well-balanced proportions and excellent wearability. While proportions can be expressed numerically, how they are perceived ultimately comes down to personal taste. Elements such as the bezel width and the generously detailed crown contribute to an overall presence that extends beyond mere numbers. Their visual impact is inherently subjective.

In my view, both the bezel and the crown suit a watch that draws inspiration from architecture, for example. Notably, the crown’s design echoes the aesthetic of the remarkable indexes, reinforcing a sense of balance and visual coherence. On a more tactile level, the black Atelier du Bracelet strap, made from 100% recycled material, wears well. The look of the strap also complements the timepiece’s aesthetics very well.

More than a sum of its parts

The dedication that led to the watch is impressive, and luckily, it shows in a not-too-extravagant way. The P1 – Perseverance, even with a striking blue dial, is a slow burner. It takes time to find and appreciate the details. The movement, a chronometer caliber according to the ISO 3159 standard, is also a key attraction. The 100% recycled Grade 5 titanium bridges and plates are a joy to behold.

Having the origin story and the brand philosophy in the back of your head also helps. Not only does it help to understand the watch from a material and conceptual perspective, but it will also explain the retail price of CHF 34,500. Often, a watch from a young watchmaker or brand is perceived as the sum of its parts. Even more often, consumers don’t know where the components come from. In the case of Pragma, the P1 – Perseverance is more than the sum of its parts. Pragma’s concept combines artisanal craftsmanship, original design, and a progressive vision of sustainability and transparency. This is a new approach in the world of high-end watchmaking. I applaud this goody-two-shoes strategy and the watches that result from that “annoying” overachieving mentality.

Now the question remains: what are your thoughts about the brand Pragma? What do you think of its goody-two-shoes philosophy? And what about the result, the P1 – Perseverance in steel and tantalum? Do you feel that this high-end watch is just for people like Patagonia’s billionaire boss, Yvon Chouinard, who gave his fashion firm away to fight climate change? Or can you also get behind the message and willingly pay the price for sustainable and qualitative luxury? Please leave your answers and comments below.