Hands-On With The Yellow Gold Rolex Perpetual 1908 On The Settimo Bracelet
When we introduced you to the new combination of a Rolex 1908 in yellow gold paired with a Settimo bracelet on April 1st, the price of the full-gold ensemble was CHF 33,400. On that same date, the cost of gold was reported at US$3,120.93 per ounce. As I write this on June 10th, the price of gold per ounce is approximately US$3,329.85. The price went up by 6.7%, but with great pleasure, I can inform you that the price of the full-gold 1908 has not followed that trend or risen in price. Well, not yet. Life has certainties, like death, taxes, and Rolex price increases. But now, with the price out of the way, let’s focus on the watch that received the Midas touch and walked away better for it. Let’s go hands-on with the yellow gold Rolex Perpetual 1908 on the lush Settimo bracelet.
The bracelet makes the watch. This is the case for plenty of watches, and it certainly is for the Perpetual 1908, which debuted in 2023. The 39mm yellow gold, white gold, and platinum watch is a good-looking timepiece on a leather strap, but it’s nothing spectacular. I know, the 1908 is not meant to be spectacular since it’s Rolex’s idea of a traditional dress watch, but it could still do with a bit more pizzazz. The seven-row Settimo bracelet in yellow gold brings just that.
The yellow gold Rolex Perpetual 1908 on the Settimo bracelet has pizzazz
The Perpetual 1908 collection replaces the Cellini, and it does so with a bit more punch than its predecessor. The dress watch features a 39 × 47 × 9.5mm case in yellow gold, white gold, or platinum and a partly domed and partly fluted bezel. The platinum version has an ice-blue dial with rice-grain guilloché, while the gold references have either a black or white dial. The new Settimo bracelet is only available for the 18K yellow gold versions of the 1908, and the reference number is 52508-0007 for the black one and 52508-0008 for the white. The latter is the more subtle iteration. Okay, “subtle” might not be the best word to describe the difference between the two, but the version with the white dial showing applied Arabic numerals and stick markers does give off a more traditional and sophisticated vibe.
The blingy and smooth seven-row bracelet
The seven-row Settimo bracelet is not just “bling,” although its links are fully polished; it’s also silky smooth. This is partly because of the shiny, polished finish, but most of the credit goes to the bracelet’s impeccable construction and finishing. The Settimo bracelet has five rows of links in the middle that are slightly narrower than the two on the outside. It’s also thin and supple, and instead of pins, Rolex uses 18K gold screws to make adjustments easy and reliable.
You might also notice the bracelet ends don’t curve to hug the case. Rather, they curve only slightly, leaving a noticeable gap. This provides a slightly more retro touch that lightens the overall look of a “heavy” watch. I didn’t bring my scale, but this full-gold creation is heavy. Luckily, the watch has a good balance on the wrist and even better finishing, so the heaviness doesn’t cause any irritation. Instead, the weight of the precious metal adds another sensation to the watch’s already luxurious appearance.
In its full-gold form, this 1908 is a bit too outspoken to compete in the most introverted class of dress watches. However, it can compete with other full-gold dress watches. The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse is often considered a classic best in class, but that iconic creation on a rose gold chain-style bracelet, the reference 5738/1R, is also not exactly a wallflower of a watch.
The Perpetual 1908 on a Settimo bracelet couldn’t lose, but it did…
In a recent Sunday Morning Showdown, the full-gold 1908 went head-to-head with the full-gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Yes, the Reverso has a bracelet made of 16 meters of gold thread, but although that’s an impressive number, the result is not impressive enough to prefer it over the seven-row Rolex bracelet. Maybe the deciding factor is the very elegant and concealed Crownclasp. Rolex constructed something nearly invisible, while JLC did quite the opposite. Still, the Reverso took the victory. Perhaps that is also because the 1908 is not a typical Rolex, but the Reverso is very much a typical JLC.
This watch has oomph
Apart from the Settimo bracelet, nothing is new. So, behind the transparent case back of the Rolex Perpetual 1908, you will find the slim caliber 7140. This automatic movement features a Chronergy escapement with a Syloxi hairspring for optimal resistance to magnetism. It is rated to ±2 seconds per day and provides an autonomy of around 66 hours. The 4Hz movement has 38 jewels, and like all Rolex calibers, it will probably be a carefree power source for many years to come.
If I were in the market for a top-class dress watch with extra visual oomph, would I consider the full-gold Perpetual 1908? Yes, I would. This watch is like the Spanish inquisition. It is an unexpected creation that somehow manages to be traditional, contemporary, blingy, and flamboyantly elegant all at once. Wearing it feels good. Rolex’s Midas touch works on the 1908, putting a big smile on my face.
What are your thoughts on this full-gold Rolex Perpetual 1908? Please let me know in the comments.
