Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r
Sometimes you run into watches that are in a different category of appreciation. The moment I saw the inaugural Toledano & Chan B/1 with the lapis lazuli dial, it triggered my appreciation for design, not only in watches but also in general. The beautifully sculpted case, wonderfully detailed bracelet, and stunning lapis lazuli dial made for a creation that I appreciate as much more than a handsome watch, especially knowing that architecture inspired its design. With the new B/1.3r, the concept has only become more interesting. This new version of the watch comes in lightweight titanium, is slightly smaller, and features a dial made of solid 18K gold. I had a chance to find out more about this latest offering from Toledano & Chan.
The one thing I regretted about the first few Toledano & Chan B/1 releases was missing the chance to try them for myself. That often happens with new watches, but with those especially, my curiosity to find out more never disappeared. Therefore, I was delighted to find out I had a chance to go hands-on with the new B/1.3r. Usually, multiple variations of the same release can feel similar. But Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan have made sure to offer plenty of new elements and details to admire with every release. Granted, this is only the fourth public release of the B/1, but there are some great new details to keep things interesting. I would even say it’s more interesting than ever.
The story of the Toledano & Chan B/1.3r
For those not familiar with Toledano & Chan, it is the brainchild of design duo Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan. The two men found a shared passion for 1970s watches and brutalist architecture that led to the creation of the first B/1. Of course, that is a very short version of the story of how they joined forces to start a brand.
But if you want to read more, read Thor’s intro article on the first Toledano & Chan B/1 from 2024. After that inaugural release, the B/1.2 swapped the lapis lazuli dial for one in mother-of-pearl, giving the watch a slightly softer presence. Additionally, a new asymmetrical sapphire crystal added a ton of character and visual brilliance.
This new B/1.3r is the third regular release, and it changes things up again. Technically, though, it is actually the fourth public release. As some of you might know, Toledano & Chan created a B/1M prototype in meteorite that was auctioned in 2024. The founders then decided to create a small run of production models of that meteorite version.
Additionally, we saw a unique piece made of copper-infused carbon fiber and a B/2 prototype using a new case and a 24K-gold-plated dial. Both of these watches were also auctioned in 2024 and 2025, respectively. So while this new B/1.3r is the third regular release, we have seen quite a bit from Toledano & Chan.
The details of the Toledano & Chan B/1.3r
Let’s go over some of the details to see what is different from previous models. First, the new B/1.3r’s case and bracelet are lightweight Grade 5 titanium. As a result, the watch is much lighter than the B/1 and B/1.2, which were stainless steel. On top of that, titanium has a different tone than stainless steel. It is a darker gray that looks very stylish, especially in combination with the solid 18K gold ripple dial.
This new titanium version is also slightly smaller. It has a 32mm diameter, a 31.5mm length, and a 9.1–10.4mm thickness, with the last being due to the asymmetrical design. While the diameter has only seen a 1.5mm decrease, that makes the watch slightly sleeker. What has stayed is the destro layout, with the crown on the left. As you know, great design is all about the little details, and I love that the two founders went over each one and optimized them where they considered it necessary.
Another standout detail is the overall finishing of the case and bracelet. The vertical brushing shows beautiful detail, adding even more character to the overall presence. Knowing how hard it is to machine and finish titanium, I felt so impressed by the sculpture and finishing of this new B/1.3r, as did many of my Fratello colleagues.
The new 18K gold ripple dial
As mentioned, this lightweight titanium version also has a new dial. This one takes a step away from the stone dials of the first two models. While using a different stone would have been logical, the two men decided it was too obvious. Instead, they opted for an 18K yellow gold dial with a pattern inspired by water’s ripples. Additionally, the gold displays a beautifully detailed texture that adds incredible depth. Finishing the look are the two asymmetrical, razor-sharp hands that nicely suit the design.
Especially in combination with the beautifully faceted sapphire crystal, the dial creates great visual drama. It was mesmerizing to see it for the first time. A nice detail is the laser-engraved “Swiss” text on the crystal. The dial and crystal are two signature elements that make this watch so alluring.
It’s truly something else, and it creates an excitement I haven’t felt in a long time. Every time I put the watch on my wrist, it brought a massive smile to my face. I could go on for a bit about the little angles, corners, and other remarkable details that make this Toledano & Chan B/1.3r one of the most impressively designed watches currently available, but I’ll let the pictures do the talking.
A familiar movement
Inside the titanium case sits the Sellita SW100, the same movement that powered Toledano & Chan’s previous releases. This 25-jewel automatic caliber operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 42-hour power reserve. The movement is based on the ETA 2671, and thanks to its smaller size, it can be used in smaller and odd-shaped watches. It has proven to be a reliable option that fits the Toledano & Chan creations perfectly.
The bracelet makes the B/1.3r a joy to wear
Once you put the watch on your wrist, you also get a good idea of how special the asymmetrical bracelet is. It is beautifully designed, with a natural flow that tapers beautifully towards the hidden butterfly clasp.
On top of that, the individual links differ in thickness and design, making it a joy to behold. You’re not only going to admire the face of the watch once it’s on your wrist. Indeed, every angle of the case and bracelet is beautifully designed and meticulously finished. Sizing the bracelet is easy thanks to the central screws on the inside, which add great practicality.
Wearing the Toledano & Chan B/1.3r
Once sized, the bracelet reveals that it is not merely a beautifully designed part of the watch. Thanks to the clever interplay of the links, it also wraps comfortably around the wrist. Although this doesn’t happen often, from the moment I closed the clasp for the first time, I was utterly smitten with the watch.
The use of lightweight titanium not only suits the design perfectly but also makes the B/1.3r a joy to wear. As I didn’t have a chsuits try the stainless steel models, I don’t know how they compare, but for me, the titanium suits the B/1’s design to a tee. Combined with that spectacular gold dial, it creates a fantastic watch that almost wears like a bracelet.
As you will know by now, I had an absolute blast spending time with the Toledano & Chan B/1.3r. Not only was it a great first hands-on experience with one of the Toledano & Chan pieces, but it was also one of the best times I spent with a watch in a long while. When a watch pushes the design boundaries past being a practical tool and into the territory of a beautifully designed object, I click with it differently. The B/1.3r constantly made me smile and appreciate that I was wearing a truly special timepiece.
Final thoughts on the new Toledano & Chan B/1.3r
If you loved Toledano & Chan’s previous releases, you will also adore this new titanium B/1.3r. If you weren’t a fan, though, this latest release will not change that. Still, considering the previous releases’ popularity, I’m sure that all 300 pieces will quickly sell out for US$10,200 (ex. taxes).
I would love to be one of those 300 people because the number of smiles this watch brought me when I wore it was priceless. For now, it was one of my favorite hands-on experiences in a long time. Additionally, it is an early highlight of this new year that will undoubtedly end up on my best-of-2026 list in December.
Every year, there is at least one watch that leaves a deep impression on me before Watches and Wonders. Last year, it was the stainless steel version of the Vacheron Constantin 222. This year, it is the Toledano & Chan B/1.3r.
While the watch has already left our office, it still makes me smile when thinking about how special it is. That is something very few watches can do, and it’s the best compliment I can give to Toledano & Chan with the release of this brilliant new B/1.3r.
