Hands-On With Two Praesidus Victory Watches — Champagne And Classic
About a month ago, Dave wrote about a new series of dress watches from Praesidus. This was a first for the young brand that usually focuses on military-themed field watches and chronographs. But even if it is a dress watch, it would not be a Praesidus without a link to a historical military event. The new Praesidus Victory Day Collection commemorates the 80th anniversary of V-Day, the end of World War II. We had a chance to go hands-on with two of the four available models and learn more about Praesidus’s first series of dress watches.
When the new Victory models landed on my desk, it caught me off guard to see a duo of dress watches from Praesidus. I must admit that I hadn’t read the press info yet, so you will understand why I had a surprised look on my face. But once I started reading about the new collection, all the puzzle pieces quickly fell into place. As Dave wrote in his introduction article, it feels like a milestone for the brand and its audience. The new Victory Day collection does not commemorate the important events on the battlefield but, instead, focuses on the peace and prosperity that came after.
The Praesidus Victory watches
You should read Dave’s article to learn the full story of the collection. In this review, I will focus on the two watches we had in the office for review and how they wear. Let’s start with some specs. The two watches feature cases made of 316L stainless steel with a gold PVD coating. These classically styled cases share a 38mm diameter, a 10.8mm thickness, and a 46.5mm lug-to-lug. Within them sits either a champagne-colored or black dial, but those only pertain to the models we received. Additional versions include a stainless steel model with a black dial and a gold PVD model with a white dial.
The dial designs of both models we received are similar, with large numerals at 12 o’clock and a mix of applied dots and triangular indexes for the remaining hours. The Champagne version’s dial uses gold for the numerals at 12 and markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, while the remaining markers are executed in silver.
At first glance, these dots also look gold, but that’s because they reflect the dial’s color. It’s a fun visual detail that I like. The only non-numeric text on the dial is the brand logo and the model name on the upper half in black. It matches the black minute track on the dial’s sloping outer edges. Other than that, the dial is nice and clean, and the gold dauphine hands top it all off.
Differentiating the Praesidus Victory models
The Classic version’s black dial is slightly different. First, it’s a matte dial that almost appears dark gray. To be honest, I like that look quite a bit. Additionally, all the details on the dial are gold colored, from the applied indexes to the text, minute track, and handset.
The overall look and presence mimic dress watches of the ’40s and ’50s, and it all feels correct for the period. It’s a look that has plenty of charm and will certainly appeal to fans of the brand.
Upon turning the watch around, we find a special commemorative case back. It has an antique silver plating, and the embossed portions feature a polished finish. Lastly, the olive branches, a symbol of peace, are plated with gold to add a touch of color. All in all, the case back tells the watch’s story. This makes these Victory Day models the kind of “if you know, you know” watches that I love. From the front, you really have to know what you are looking at to appreciate it.
Miyota inside
Inside the cases of these watches, Praesidus has placed the Miyota 9039 caliber. This automatic movement operates at 28,800vph, has 24 jewels, and offers 42 hours of power reserve.
As most of you will know, this movement is one of Miyota’s premium offerings. The 9000 series has become a go-to for many small brands because the movements are affordable and offer great reliability. This makes the 9039 movement perfect for this Victory Day collection as well.
Wearing the Praesidus Victory watches
On the wrist is where these watches truly show their charm. In short, they have plenty of vintage appeal but combine it with modern-day proportions. In the 1940s, most watches were much smaller, but making the cases for these new models bigger was a great move.
With a 38mm diameter, the cases are still modest in size, but they feel less awkward on larger wrists. When you pick the watches up, the brilliant brown leather straps immediately stand out. The quality of these straps is excellent, and they help the watches sit comfortably on the wrist.
Another detail that I loved is the angular gold PVD buckle. Stylistically, it is slightly different from the elegant case, but it is nicely made and neatly finished with a mix of brushed top surfaces and polished bevels.
Out of the two Victory models, I preferred the black-dial Classic version. I have gone on record here on Fratello explaining my love for the combo of black and gold, so it makes complete sense that I prefer that execution.
Final thoughts on the Praesidus Victory
All in all, these two Praesidus Victory models are fun to wear. Let’s be honest, though: if you were looking for a vintage dress watch that wears like a charm, you would most likely not end up with one of these.
I would resort to an actual vintage piece with a great story and that same appeal. But we also know that when it comes to Praesidus watches, it’s not solely about their appearance and comfort. There is always a story behind each model, and that’s why the brand has so many fans.
The story of this new series is somewhat different, even for Praesidus. Whereas the brand usually honors the battlefield events, these new watches tell a story of hope and new beginnings. This new narrative also suits a dress watch better than a military field watch. That’s why my initial amazement was quickly replaced by a smile and respect for what Oscar Chabrat, founder of Praesidus, accomplished with this new series of watches.
If you are a fan of Praesidus, you will probably like these new watches, which are available for pre-order for US$580 and will be delivered in November. Overall, the new Praesidus Victory Day collection looks like a step away from the brand’s usual offerings. Once you understand the meaning behind them, though, you’ll realize that they are a great extension of what Praesidus does so well.
If you are interested in these watches, you can find out more on the dedicated page on the Praesidus website.
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