Hands-On With The Awake Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Collection
Awake has a hit on its hands with the Sơn Mài watches. The pieces, which feature traditional Vietnamese lacquerware dials, are hot! Now the latest batch of limited-edition releases is here. The Frosted Leaf collection consists of three models, all containing dials inspired by a view of Earth’s surface from space.
It’s been a whirlwind six months for Awake. The small independent brand showed us the first four Sơn Mài pieces last September, and they promptly sold out. Last month, the first two models in a movie-related series dropped and paid tribute to Jurassic Park. Today’s new watches aren’t related to films, but they embody inspiration from a subject around us. Our planet inspires the new Frosted Leaf trio, and we think, once again, these pieces will be positively received.
The Awake Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Collection
As we’ll soon see, the latest Sơn Mài watches offer more than new dial colors. For now, though, let’s roll through the basic specifications. A recycled 316L stainless steel case comes in with a 39mm diameter, 45.6mm length, and 11.8mm thickness, including a sapphire crystal. It also has a 50m water resistance rating. Blue, Moka (brown), and green dials are available and symbolize the water, fertile land, and forests when viewed from space.
The watches sit within a sweet spot size-wise and continue the crowd-pleasing with a 20mm-wide gray Delugs nubuck leather strap and skeletonized pin buckle. Regarding the case, the Frosted Leaf pieces have a polished top surface, which is harmonious with the polished dial hardware. The flanks are endowed with horizontal brushing and curved lugs that conform to the wrist.
A finely crafted crown has polished knurling to match the case. From the side, it has a polished Awake logo in relief set against a satin-finished background. None of these features are new to the line, but it shows how small details often take time to uncover.
Dials with depth and a new process
The Frosted Leaf dials bring something more than new colors. They are created using a Sơn Mài process like the previous releases, but there’s a new technique. The Chinese lacquer tree, or Rhus verniciflua, provides the sap for the dial’s base. Then, artisans add black pigment and silver leaf before manually sanding it to reveal textures on the dial. The difference between these watches compared to prior releases is an additional layer of silver leaf with more pigment. Once again, the dial is sanded, lacquered, and polished by hand. Each dial requires at least 15 hours of work.
The result is awesome. I’ve enjoyed the previous releases for their deep, textured appearances, but the Frosted Leaf models seem much more three-dimensional. Indeed, the logo and polished steel indexes seem to float on the surface. Regarding the colors, there’s little to dislike with any of the models. The blue stands out immediately as the safe choice, but the green shines and looks like a heavy canopy of trees in the Amazon. Brown is seldom my choice, but it’s different here due to the blackish patches.
Other dial details
Awake uses polished steel for the hands and indexes. Each has a molded underlayer of Super-LumiNova BGW9 that emits a blue glow in the dark. Once again, this provides a floating appearance that should please even the most ardent lume fans.
A La Joux-Perret G101 on display
The automatic La Joux-Perret G101 is finding its way into an increasing number of watches. That’s no surprise considering the impressive 68 hours of power reserve and 28,800vph frequency. Awake adds some nice engraving to the tungsten oscillating rotor and a laser-engraved border. The movement’s finishing is clean, displaying Côtes de Genève through a sapphire crystal.
Hard to deny on the wrist
The dials are lovely and unique on the Sơn Mài models, but the intrigue would fall short if the watches weren’t so bloody comfortable. The case sits nicely on the wrist, and the nubuck strap is a rare example of an OEM strap that won’t be changed moments after purchase. Most of all, though, the bottomless depth of these dials is impressive and turns each into a conversation piece. What if no one is around? That’s okay because the wearer will be guilty of staring endlessly into the well-like pool of each face.
The Frosted Leaf is limited but affordable
Once again, Awake is releasing a limited number of these watches. The brand will produce just 50 numbered pieces of each Frosted Leaf model. The price is for each is €2,150 (excluding taxes), which is barely more than the Jurassic references. That’s impressive considering the extra time spent on each dial. Once again, I predict these pieces will be popular, and each should sell out quickly. I’m happy for Awake; the company has discovered a winning formula and is offering it reasonably. Plus, if the release sells out too quickly or the colors aren’t exactly as desired, the brand will likely return with a new set of hues soon. For now, let’s enjoy these, and let us know your thoughts on them in the comments below.
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