Hands-On With The New Aquastar Benthos Professional

If you’ve been sleeping on Aquastar, it’s high time to get on board and take a look at the brand’s dive watches. Since 2020, the revitalized company has released a flurry of watches under its two core collections. The Deepstar models represent the dawn of recreational diving during the ’60s. On the other hand, the Benthos references are inspired by the more hardcore pursuits of the ’70s. Regardless of the line, all are capable, comfortable, and surprisingly affordable. Those qualities are encompassed within the latest release, the new Benthos Professional, a set of watches that might rank as my favorites yet.

The original late-’60s Benthos 500 was a powerhouse of a dive watch. It had an impressive, slow-moving, chronograph-activated 60-minute hand for timing dives. That watch returned as a fantastic reissue last year with a special movement, but I’ve been just as pleased with how Aquastar has adapted the Benthos design language to simpler three-hand divers. The new Benthos Professional models follow this formula, but they do so with the thinnest cases yet. I’ve had the opportunity to spend time with both variants and will share my thoughts. First, though, let’s recap the models since 2023.

Aquastar Benthos H1

The Benthos back story

The first rerelease using the Benthos name was the H1. This model debuted in late 2023 as a robust dive watch with a 500m depth rating. It was limited to just 500 pieces and commands respect on the wrist with its 42mm by 47mm case and 16mm thickness.

Aquastar Benthos 500

After the success of the H1, Aquastar followed it up with a highly anticipated release, the Benthos 500. For this piece, the brand worked with La Joux-Perret to create a bespoke monopusher chronograph that functions like the original vintage version. Its 200m water resistance rating is impressive, and the pusher can be used underwater.

Aquastar Benthos H2

The most recent release came this January with the H2. Aquastar returned to a more affordable three-handed watch but added a screw-down helium valve at 4 o’clock. This 300m-rated diver had the look of a Benthos 500, but it featured a more compact 40mm by 44mm case.

The Aquastar Benthos Professional

I’ve always felt that previous Benthos models were comfortable, but there’s no denying that they’re relatively thick. The design is inherently vertical, and the case, especially on the H2, has a chunky profile. This is all fine for casual situations or if the watches are ever used for their original intention. However, some of us wouldn’t mind wearing a Benthos every day, including under a shirt sleeve in a business-casual setting. This is where the Benthos Professional fits into the collection.

As the head of Aquastar, Rick Marei has done a fantastic job of steering the brand back into relevance. His launches have proven to be far more than warmed-over rehashes, which is part of the reason he ensured the right level of heft on previous releases. However, even he is aware of the trend toward thinner watches. This gave way to development work on slimming down the traditional case. The result is a Benthos with the customary 42mm diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug case but a significantly slimmer 13.9mm thickness.

Two versions, each with a lovely case profile

The Benthos Professional is available with a traditional 904L stainless steel case or a black DLC-coated version. The rest of the design is as expected for this hallowed name. An external black unidirectional ceramic 60-minute dive bezel has the right amount of tension between its 120 clicks. Outside, the watch features a screw-down crown at 2 o’clock and a slightly protruding, non screw-down helium valve at 4 o’clock. Normally, I’m not a fan of helium valves and find them extraneous. On a Benthos, though, it’s warranted because it echoes the original 500’s design.

One of the most notable attributes of the Benthos Professional is its case profile. Earlier versions are thicker, whereas this model is slim and appears lightweight. Nonetheless, the 300m depth rating is still robust. It’s telling how a case redesign and an accompanying 2mm reduction can be so dramatic. The watch truly looks like it’s ready to do battle with the likes of anything from Doxa, Certina, or the like.

An unmistakable dial

Traditionalists will be pleased to know that the Benthos Professional keeps its ultra-legible dial. A semi-glossy black surface pairs with square and rectangular indexes. The latter ones have applied polished metal on the short sides, and the markers for the remaining hours are printed. Aquastar uses Super-LumiNova X1 with a yellowy hue that avoids fauxtina descriptions. The hour and minute hands are basic, polished metal rectangles with luminous stripes. A luminous-arrow-tipped seconds hand adds contrast and follows past models without a counterweight. One of my favorite details is the checkered black and white rehaut, which makes timing a clearer job. Notably, this watch does not contain a date function. All in all, there are no surprises on the dial, which is a positive. Covering all of this detail is a flat, AR-coated sapphire crystal that sits flush with the ceramic bezel.

An old friend in the engine room

Surprisingly, the Benthos Professional uses the ETA 2824-2 automatic caliber. This movement was a fixture before the Swatch Group stopped selling to most third parties in 2020. Rick mentioned that he has a healthy stock of NOS calibers and felt that using them for this watch would be appreciated by potential buyers. These 2824s are Elaboré grade and have been adjusted in five positions. While the 38 hours of power reserve won’t likely get anyone excited, the accuracy of ±5 seconds per day is a notable added value on a watch like this.

The Benthos Professional is a smooth partner on the wrist

There’s no denying that the 2mm drop in thickness makes a sizable difference on the wrist. The new Benthos Professional is flat-out comfortable and sleek. Because of this, it should appeal to general watch fans, whereas prior models felt more targeted toward vintage collectors. Another observation is that the watch is beautifully finished with clean case chamfers, edges, and brushed surface treatments. While I tend toward basic stainless watches, I can’t deny that the DLC version is incredibly cool on the wrist. Regarding the bracelets and straps, there’s some big news here too.

I received my Benthos Professional testers more than two months ago. This means that the standard ISOfrane VS 1969 strap wasn’t quite ready to ship. I’ve not seen it yet, but the photos look promising thanks to its more tapered shape. I plan to come back with a review of this strap because ISOfrane doesn’t come out with new models frequently. That’s not all, though, because this marks the first time I’ve tried Aquastar’s new beads-of-rice bracelet.

This new accessory has solid 20mm end links, quick-release spring bars, a machined push-button clasp, and (finally) toolless micro-adjustment. It comes with loads of removable friction-pin-fitted links, which should make it suitable for those with larger wrists. It’s a comfortable, relatively thin bracelet that is a large improvement over the brand’s existing bracelet. While it isn’t standard, it is available for US$199.

The big ask isn’t so big at all

I’ve always been impressed with the prices of Aquastar watches. The new Benthos Professional has a pre-order price of US$1,290 and a regular price of US$1,590. Considering the size, the adjusted movement, and overall build quality, I can’t find fault here. It’s infinitely more interesting than most entry-level big-brand divers, but it offers big-league capabilities. The watches, especially the stainless steel version, are also subdued enough to wear well in most situations. Overall, this is a great release, and it’s nice to see a brand listen to the market by making a more wearable model. Let us know your thoughts on the latest Aquastar Benthos in the comments below.