Hands-On With The New Atelier Wen Ancestra Jiāo
Atelier Wen has created some of my favorite watches over the past several years. The brand’s Perception series fits like a dream and is beautifully finished. Plus, the company is never content to leave well enough alone. Once a model has been released, the team continues to make minor updates to improve fit and quality. Today’s release isn’t about a minor change, though. The Ancestra Jiāo is an entirely new model line, the third for the young company, and it looks fantastic.
A month ago, during London Watch Week, I had the opportunity to meet with Robin Tallendier, one of Atelier Wen’s founders. In addition to production pieces, Robin brought a handful of unreleased prototypes. Among these was the new Ancestra Jiāo, a decidedly different watch than the Perception. This one is more of a dress watch, but it boasts a multipiece case, an impressive enameled dial, and a Swiss movement.
The Atelier Wen Ancestra Jiāo
The latest Atelier Wen model is a 904L stainless steel watch with lovely dimensions. A 38mm diameter comes together with a 46mm lug-to-lug and an 11.3mm thickness. The double-domed sapphire crystal features an impressive five layers of antireflective coating. The reason for this, as we’ll soon see, is to allow an unhindered view of the dial. Other specifications include a screw-down crown and a display case back affixed with four screws. All of this security supports a water resistance rating of 100 meters. As I always mention with dressier pieces, it’s best to swap out the leather strap — in this case, a 20mm-wide taupe Epsom one — for a more water-ready option.
A uniquely designed case
Atelier Wen worked with designers Sifan Guo and Alfred Chan to create the Ancestra. The result is a case that’s very different from the Perception. Finely polished and brushed surfaces can be found throughout the case, along with well-defined chamfers. The highlight of the finished product, however, is the construction of the detached lugs. These are fastened to the case via a flush-mounted and signed screw on each lug. It’s a clean design with sharply delineated edges. Overall, I credit the creators for coming up with something instantly likeable that isn’t immediately recognizable as a copy of another watch.
A hand-hammered silver and Grand Feu enamel dial
With the Perception, the artisanal craft on display was primarily guilloché. The Ancestra Jiāo changes course and employs more than one fine decorating process. Kong Lingjun, an enamel artisan in China, creates these works of art over 20 days, all while working with a 50% rejection rate. Each dial begins as a 925 silver blank. Kong and his team then use a martelé, or hand-hammering, process to delicately achieve the small surface craters. After this, the artisans mix quartz, feldspar, borax, and other materials.
First, the concoction undergoes a high-temperature heating process to create glass. Next, this glass is crushed into an enameling powder. The powder is mixed with water, applied to the dial, and fired at high temperature six times to reach the correct color concentration. Finally, the dials are hand-polished to achieve the right surface texture.
Calligraphy and diamonds
Elaine Wong, a Hong Kong-based calligrapher, adds the hour markers on the odd hours. These symbols alternate with baguette-cut diamonds. Yes, a second version will come next with Arabic numerals and diamonds. However, the numerals will display the even hours. Rhodium-plated leaf-shaped hands complete the dial.
A French movement inside the Ancestra Jiāo
Atelier Wen’s Ancestra Jiāo becomes the brand’s first watch with a French caliber, and it’s a worthy debut. Each piece features a Pequignet EPM03 automatic movement. To the brand’s credit, the calibers are adjusted in six positions and at three temperature settings. As a result, buyers can expect chronometer performance of -4/+6 seconds per day with an actual average of ±2 seconds. Other interesting details are a patented winding assembly that reduces wear over time and a Pellaton winding system. The movement ticks at a frequency of 28,800vph and offers a healthy 65-hour power reserve. Also, the rotor is plated with 5N gold, and the three-quarter plate is adorned with a microetched poem of the Chinese manuscript Questions to Heaven by Qu Yuan.
Lovely on the wrist
The Ancestra is a supremely comfortable watch on the wrist and could easily work as a daily piece. While looking dressy, it also has the right amount of heft to avoid feeling overly delicate. Frankly, I’d like to see a simple bracelet as an option, as I think it would transform the look. Regarding the inclusion of diamonds, it’s a bold move, and upon hearing about it, I wasn’t so sure. After all, diamonds remind me of Datejusts and watches for a different generation. Yet, when I tried the watch on and took it to the window, the diamonds added the right level of shimmer to the dial. Oddly, I think the dial would be a tad too quiet without them, so chalk a win up for the hint of ice on this watch! Regarding the combination of enameling and a hammered texture, it needs to be seen in person because it’s exquisite. It’s deep and looks like a challenge to produce.
Final thoughts, availability, and pricing
Atelier Wen will offer the Ancestra Jiāo for seven days. The brand will then produce all orders and begin shipping during the second quarter of 2026. Considering the level of manual finishing, case design, and movement work, the US$5,850 price offers a lot of watch for the money. Yes, it’s more expensive than the Perception, but this feels like an even more mature offering. Let us know your thoughts on this latest Atelier Wen piece and whether you like this new direction for the brand.
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