Hands-On With The Ultra-Slim Christopher Ward Twelve 660

Christopher Ward is not scared to go against the grain with its new releases. It has become a big part of its success. The brand seemingly slapped purists in the face with a manual-winding integrated-bracelet sports watch not too long ago. In itself, that’s nothing spectacular. However, if you are a Gérald Genta devotee, you know this was not part of the man’s original concept. But what if this clever twist delivers an impressively slim watch? The result challenges my purist ideas about Genta’s work in more ways than one. Let me explain.

If you are a fan of Gérald Genta’s trilogy of sports watches with integrated bracelets, you know there was more to the concept than just great looks. Genta devised an idea based on several factors that make his trilogy such a revolutionary series. It all started with drawings, of course, where the exploration of shapes took place. From octagonal (Royal Oak) to square (Nautilus) to round (Ingenieur), Genta played with rudimentary shapes to make them work. In line with that, he also designed the integrated bracelets to transition smoothly into the case. Additionally, Genta also wanted a slim profile to guarantee good daily wearability.

The brilliance of Gérald Genta’s original concept

These ideas all make sense and are easy to put into words. But while Genta’s concepts are genius, what came after was the biggest challenge. Executing the modern daily wearer of the future was the biggest hurdle. The stories of getting the Royal Oak’s bracelet just right are no industry secret. It proved challenging to execute it exactly as Genta had envisioned.

Another important factor was finding an ultra-thin automatic caliber. Thinness was imperative for proportionally matching the case and bracelet for a naturally flowing design and great daily comfort. Furthermore, an automatic movement would amplify daily comfort by eliminating the need for the wearer to wind it by hand. This is a very short and incomplete explanation of Genta’s concept, but you will understand that there is a genius to it that is hard to achieve. In 2023, Christopher Ward introduced its take on the idea with the Twelve, a watch that garnered much critical acclaim.

How Christopher Ward challenges Genta’s original concept

With the original Twelve, Christopher Ward neatly checked all the Genta boxes. It was another affordable option in the intergrated-bracelet genre that stood out for the usual reasons the British brand is often praised. The design and execution are spot on, and with a price tag under €1,500, it is one of the best options currently out there. But the team at Christopher Ward must have thought, “How can we shake things up and make a Twelve that’s different and ruffles some feathers while making it even more impressive?”

Enter the Twelve 660. This version of the Twelve is a new take on the watch, but it’s not a line extension of what was already there. While it resembles the original Twelve in style, it is an inherently new approach to the concept. Dave explained that the designers started building the Twelve 660 from the ground up. The goal was to create an ultra-thin version of the Twelve, but doing so meant altering the overall concept. The brand decided to swap the automatic caliber for a manual-winding one. Is it pure blasphemy or simple genius? I got the chance to find out.

Impressively thin compared to its peers

Let’s quickly run over some specs to create some context. The new Christopher Ward Twelve 660 has a 38mm stainless steel case with a 43.3mm length and a mere 6.6mm thickness. The diameter is in line with the original model, but the slimmer case profile makes this version impressive straight out of the box. Additionally, it has a more reserved aesthetic compared to the automatic models.

The design team at Christopher Ward made the bezel slightly wider to add character and removed the crown guards. Also, the mix of linear brushing, polished bevels, and sandblasted accents gives the regular stainless steel Twelve 660 a visual brilliance that makes it stand out immediately. We also had the blacked-out version in the office, and that model has a stealthy quality that is completely different but no less impressive in its simplicity.

The toned-down dials of the Twelve 660

Christopher Ward created four versions of the new Twelve 660. Three come in regular stainless steel with a white, blue, or green dial. Lastly, there’s a black-coated version that also features a black dial. The dials were also completely redesigned compared to the original Twelve and feature a soft, grainy texture with clear lacquer on top. They are matched with applied hour markers and hands in the style of the original models, but once more, they appear simpler.

The simple open minute track accompanies the hands and markers, emphasizing that effect. Additionally, the brand’s applied logo and the “Swiss Made” designation on the lower half of the dial keep the text to a minimum.

Compared to the original dials of the Twelve, this is much more toned down in style and appearance. Having said that, there are plenty of details to enjoy, and the finishing of the hands and markers provides the necessary visual sparkles. I like the toned-down aesthetic over the regular dials of the automatic models.

The key to creating the ultra-slim Twelve 660

The cases of all four versions match familiar bracelets, but these were also completely redesigned. The single-piece screw-fastened links are now just 2.9mm thick, and the clasp is 4.2mm, keeping it very thin.

I especially like the push-button mechanism. It is neatly integrated for a natural look, and it keeps the bracelet’s profile slim. This results in a watch that flows really nicely from the case to the clasp, ensuring that it wears very comfortably.

Thanks to the manual-winding Sellita SW210-1, the designers could shave 3.35mm off the case thickness compared to the automatic versions. The caliber looks quite attractive through the case back’s sapphire display, showing skeletonized train bridges, rhodium plating, and added brushed and diamond-polished finishes.

This movement operates at a 4Hz frequency, has a 45-hour power reserve, and keeps time within a tolerance of ±20 seconds per day. While the specs might not be revolutionary, it’s all about what the caliber made possible in design and ultimately offers in comfort and wearability.

Wearing the Christopher Ward Twelve 660

That brings us to the crux of the new Christopher Ward Twelve 660. Has the manual-winding caliber led to a brilliant daily wearer? The short answer to that question is “yes,” but I have to go into detail about that. As explained, we received the two models you can see in the pictures for review. I prefer the stainless steel version with the blue dial, and that is also the one I wore extensively over seven days. The black one could not quite tickle my fancy at first. When a watch is blacked out and modest in appearance, it runs the risk of seeming too thin. With the right outfit, however, it does work quite well.

The stainless steel models have a more luxurious appeal, and the material shows the brilliance of the angular case design and all its details. It offers the contrast that I prefer to make an ultra-thin model like the Twelve 660 impressive from every angle.

Upon picking up the watch, the top-notch production quality immediately stands out. I have praised Christopher Ward for this on multiple occasions. As you can imagine, with an ultra-thin watch like this new Twelve 660, there is an extra emphasis on that quality because it is so thin.

A matter of all the small details

But every little detail is considered and executed tremendously. After sizing the bracelet — you need a screwdriver with a small head because of the smaller screws used for the slimmer links — it wraps comfortably around your wrist. Only then do you realize how skinny the watch really is. It truly is nothing short of impressive. This becomes especially clear once you see how little space is between the thin crystal and the dial, indexes, and hands below.

I was genuinely surprised by how often I returned to the watch to admire its slim profile. But despite that, it feels excellent on the wrist. Not once was I phased by the idea that the Twelve 660 could not be a perfect daily wearer.

The 38mm diameter hits the sweet spot, and the bracelet tapers so nicely from the case to the clasp, where it is 16mm wide. The svelte profile ensures that it effortlessly slips under any cuff, and the lower weight makes it super easy to wear without losing the reassuring feeling of wearing a special watch.

Is the Christopher Ward Twelve 660 the best Twelve yet?

I could go on for a bit, for instance, about how nice the feel of the push-pull crown is when you operate it. It feels nice to leave it in its standard position to wind the caliber or pull it out to set the time. Especially when setting the time, there is zero play, and the hands turn smoothly, giving the same quality feel you get when simply wearing the watch. I know I’m starting to sound like a broken record, but Christopher Ward has created an impressive series of watches with the new Twelve 660.

Which brings me to the critical question: is a manual-winding caliber conceptual blasphemy or the key to an even better daily wearer? As a Genta purist, I would debate the conceptual compromise and the impracticality of having to wind the watch regularly. I admire Genta’s work on the concept for the Royal Oak and all that came after, and you would think I would have significant reservations. I certainly had them going into this review. A manual-winding version of the Twelve just seemed too simple.

Final thoughts on the new Christopher Ward Twelve 660

But this new Twelve 660 is not just a standard Twelve with a hand-wound movement. The Christopher Ward team created a new series that stands out for more than being slim by using an ultra-thin caliber. After wearing the stainless steel model for over a week, I greatly enjoyed the svelte profile and the toned-down dial. They create an aesthetic that is quite distinct from the automatic models.

As a result, this Twelve 660 feels like a whole different watch and is impressive from the moment you put it on your wrist. And honestly, the fact that it has a manual-winding caliber is not a dealbreaker for me. Sure, I would have preferred an automatic movement for daily practicality, but there is something to be said for the interaction with your watch that you get in return. The conceptual blasphemy has resulted in a wonderful daily wearer. And in the end, that is what I want from a great watch.

Is it hard to stay a purist?

If you consider the €1,805 price for the steel models and €1,955 for the black model, it’s hard to dispute that Christopher Ward has outdone itself again. Sure, you can criticize the looks based on personal preferences or debate the manual-winding movement all day long. But you can’t argue that the brand did not create an impressive series of ultra-thin modern sports watches. The Twelve 660 will surely find its way to fans. I can say that I have become one of them. It’s pretty remarkable because, when it comes to Genta’s concept, it’s hard for me not to be a purist. The fact that Christopher Ward made me reconsider this proves that the Twelve 660 is truly special.