Here’s Why The Rolex Datejust 16234 Ticks All The Boxes

This year marks the 80th anniversary of the Datejust, which, according to my colleague Gerard, is “the mother of all modern wristwatches.” And I don’t disagree. When Rolex introduced this watch in 1945, it set a new direction for the company, and many other brands followed (much later). A wristwatch for everyday use, with a date window at 3 o’clock, self-winding movement, and an incredibly comfortable steel bracelet. Just put a very early Datejust next to a current one, and you can see they’re very much related. However, this trend does tend to apply to most Rolex models.

1989 Rolex Datejust 16234 with ivory (cream) dial. Image via Chrono24/Huntington.

Rolex Datejust 16234

We run a series of articles on Fratello to highlight the Rolex Datejust. Several editors pick their favorite references, and you will see why we’re doing this exercise at a later stage. My “ultimate” Datejust reference is the 16234, and has been for a long time. Although I don’t own one (more about that in a minute), it’s the one I would buy today if I were shopping for one.

My preference for the Rolex Datejust 16234 is linked to when I first started getting into watches. It was the go-to watch for anyone wanting a Rolex and remains one of the most recognizable models today. In this article, I will explain why the long-discontinued Datejust 16234 is my absolute favorite.

The Datejust reference 16234 was introduced in 1988 and was in production until 2005. It had two significant improvements over the previous generation (references 16030/16013/16014, for example): a sapphire crystal instead of plexi and a new movement (caliber 3135). More about the movement later. The sapphire crystal is not to everyone’s liking, especially if you’re into vintage watches, but it offers a bit more carefree joy of wearing your Datejust.

A ca. 2000 Rolex Datejust 16234 with a porcelain-white dial. Image via Bulang & Sons

The 162xx is the sweet spot of Datejust references

With the 162xx series, the case design stayed the same as its predecessors. At some point, Rolex removed the lug holes, which I like aesthetically, but makes it less convenient. On the other hand, why would you want to remove the Jubilee bracelet? My point is that I love it much more than the later Datejust references, and that it has clear technical advantages over the former references. The 162xx is the best of both worlds.

Rolex Datejust 16234 with a tapestry dial from ca. 1991. Image via Langedyk Vintage Watches.

I own a Datejust 1600, a graduation gift from my mother. However, I have often considered getting an additional Datejust, like the 16234. The reference 16234 offers a wide range of dial options, a big plus for this watch. For a long time, the salmon pink dial with applied white gold Roman numerals was my absolute favorite after seeing it in Gerard’s pre-owned watch shop in The Hague many years ago. And what about the tapestry dial variation? Amazing! My favorite is the ivory dial version with Roman numerals, which has gradually become a creamy color over time.

Rolex Datejust 16233. Image via Manbodh Watches.

Bi-color is definitely an option

There’s also the gold and steel version in this series, with reference 16233. The bracelet has yellow gold center links, and the watch has a gold bezel and crown. You could consider the Datejust in two-tone as the typical 1980s iconic watch. It is often mistaken for the watch on the wrist of Patrick Bateman in American Psycho (that was a Seiko with Datejust looks), but it can be found in many other movies and series.

Rolex Datejust 16233. Image via Manbodh Watches.

The Datejust 16234 is a bit more low-key, but the white gold fluted bezel and polished center links on the Jubilee bracelet add that extra playfulness in the sun.

Caliber 3135

Caliber 3135

Inside is, as mentioned above, the Rolex caliber 3135 movement. Where its predecessor, the 3035, was a relatively big step up from the caliber 15xx series with its higher beat rate and a quickset mechanism for the date, the new 3135 had a few additional tweaks. The 3135 has a balance bridge rather than a balance cock, for improved stability. The 3135 is also slightly thinner and uses four more jewels. The caliber 3135 had some small improvements during its lifespan, such as a Parachrom hairspring, but early 3135 movements still had the Nivarox (Swatch Group) hairspring. Not only did the Datejust use this movement, but the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and Yacht-Master also had caliber 3135 inside.

Rolex Datejust 16234 with ivory (cream) dial. Image: Bulang & Sons

Why I don’t own one (yet)

If the Rolex Datejust 16234 (and 16233 as a second) is my favorite reference, then why don’t I own one? I’m not exactly sure, and I do think that my Day-Date 18238 has replaced the need to own a 16234. It could be a nice addition to my 1600 Datejust (which I fitted with a white gold fluted bezel from a 1601) on Jubilee, but it’s also very similar. That said, this article and the series on the Datejust by my colleagues inspired me to look for my favorite one and reignited my interest. It’s just an excellent everyday watch, more suitable than a Day-Date or four-digit Datejust, I would say.