Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna — Nailing It On The First Try?

The new Tudor 1926 Luna marks an unexpected first for the brand — a moonphase complication. We have come to expect new variations within the Black Bay or Pelagos lines. This time, though, Tudor chose its most understated collection for a milestone complication. The result is a 39mm dressy number with the brand’s very first moonphase display.

The 1926 line has always been about quieter, more formal models, and the moonphase complication suits it perfectly. Tudor launches three colorways, one of which is designed in collaboration with Taiwanese singer/songwriter/actor/director Jay Chou. The new model costs €2,630 / US$2,800 / £2,210. Let’s have a closer look!

The Tudor 1926 line

The 1926 line is probably not the first to spring to mind when you think of Tudor. Named after the year Hans Wilsdorf founded the brand, the collection features dressier models. Unlike the spotlight-stealing Black Bay and Pelagos families, the 1926 models focus on more classical refinement and value for money. The latter is emphasized by the use of Sellita-based calibers, rather than Kenissi variants.

The 1926 range is commercially important for Tudor in Asia, particularly in the Chinese market. The launch is timed to coincide with the Chinese tradition of the Mid-Autumn Festival. Put all of this together, and the Luna version of the 1926 starts feeling less out of left field.

Tudor 1926 Luna specifications

The 39mm case comes in polished 316L steel with a smooth bezel and domed sapphire crystal. Tudor rates its water resistance at 100 meters. The model comes on a seven-row bracelet. Unfortunately, we get no micro-adjustment or quick-release spring bars.

Inside ticks the T607-9, a chronometer-grade automatic movement with a moonphase display at 6 o’clock. It sits hidden behind an all-steel case back. The caliber is basically a Tudor-branded Sellita SW280-1, which makes sense at the price. Note that “chronometer-grade” does not mean “chronometer-certified.” I suspect the movement will meet COSC standards, but it comes without certification. The movement runs at 28,800 beats per hour and offers a 38-hour power reserve.

Tudor ambassador Jay Chou

Finally, there’s the Jay Chou connection. Chou is both a Tudor ambassador and a creative collaborator. His input shaped the champagne-colored dial, complete with a golden moon disc that reveals itself through a black cutout as the phase changes.

Initial impressions of the Tudor 1926 Luna

I have to make two disclaimers before I share my hot take on the Tudor 1926 Luna. The first is that I haven’t yet seen these watches in real life. Consequently, I can only comment on the concept, photos, and specs we have. Second, I am a Western European watch enthusiast, and the press materials make it pretty clear that the model is focused on the Chinese market. Therefore, my interpretation may not be as relevant or as appropriate as I like to think.

You may have gathered by the above that I am not about to heap praise on the Tudor 1926 Luna. Let me start with some positives. I think the Jay Chou version is actually quite cool. The black-on-gold dial looks like a refreshingly modern take on an otherwise classical layout. This leads me to a major issue I have with the other two. Tudor made the sub-dials housing the moonphase discs the same color as the moons. This means that, at a glance, you don’t actually see the phase of the moon but, instead, a cloud-shaped silver or gold blob. It breaks with tradition but not for the right reasons, if you ask me. From a distance, it puts an odd kidney-shaped bright spot on the watch that isn’t quite as clean as a contrasting fully round sub-dial, for instance.

My second gripe is more conceptual. I would love to see Tudor apply its significant watchmaking prowess to something daring and new — a brand-new line that breaks the 13-year hegemony of the Black Bay and Pelagos, something to propel Tudor into the future of fine Swiss watchmaking. A moonphase version of the 1926 doesn’t feel like that watch.

Closing thoughts

Perhaps I am missing the point. The market has been crying out for more affordable offerings, and Tudor obliged, so I don’t think we can be overly critical of the lack of quick-release pins, micro-adjustability, and chronometer certification. If you want those features at this price point, you have to look at smaller brands, and there are plenty of those.

I am sure the build quality and finishing will be spot on. They always are with modern Tudors, so these will be easy recommendations too. Lastly, I am sure Tudor sees an opportunity in the Chinese market for the 1926 Luna, and the brand is grabbing it. That’s fair. It is just that, as a Tudor fan, I find that these don’t quite make my heart skip a beat.

What do you think of the new Tudor 1926 Luna? Let us know in the comments section below!