I’m in the market for a go-anywhere, do-anything watch. My search begins with a set budget of between €4,000 and €5,000 and a list of must-have features, including a GMT function, a depth rating of at least 100 meters, and an automatic movement. Apart from a measurable amount of money and spec list, there are also very important yet much less tangible factors at play. There’s personal taste, for instance, but also a history with watches of different brands, which means my view on watches is clouded by brand experience and perception. I have a good idea of what’s on the market, at what price, and what’s to my taste. Still, a bit of advice can’t hurt anyone, right? And that’s why I decided to ask AI to find me a new watch. Let’s find out if it’s the exact watch I picked.

Which AI tool should I use? Well, why not use a couple? I settled on ChatGPT and Google Gemini. There were plenty more to choose from, but these two should suffice for this article, which would otherwise run way too long.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT on its side

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

I ask AI to find me a new watch — Selecting the right tools

If you ask a friend for watch advice, you can do so in a conversation over a nice cup of coffee. You will have a good time, for sure, and it contributes to the feel-good vibes that should accompany the steady process of buying a new luxury watch. AI doesn’t drink coffee, nor does it care about having a good time. It will, however, provide answers when asked a question. It has to be the “right” question, though — the more detailed the question, the more precise the answer. In AI, the question is the prompt, the starting point for the AI tool to process and generate results, from simple questions to complex requests. “What is the capital of Bangladesh?” is simple, but “How do we achieve world peace?” is very complex. We will soon find out how to categorize the question “What watch should I buy?”

Norqain Freedom 60 GMT with a leather strap

Norqain Freedom 60 GMT

Defining my prompt

Now, how will I formulate my prompt? How much personal info will I put in there? “As much as I dare” is the correct answer, so here goes:

I’m a watch journalist with approximately 20 years of experience, and I’m seeking a new, not pre-owned, mechanical watch priced between €4,000 and €5,000. I’m looking for a comfortable watch around 40mm that I can wear every day, travel with, and swim with, while keeping track of time zones. I want it to look good with a T-shirt but also not look out of place when I wear it to a more formal event. The watch must be from a Swiss or Japanese brand. It doesn’t necessarily have to be an established brand; a microbrand with a solid reputation could also be an option.

Propped up Grand Seiko GMT Moondrop SBGM257

Grand Seiko GMT “Moondrop” SBGM257

First up, ChatGPT

After feeding the prompt to ChatGPT, it took 44 seconds to “think” and also shared its “thought process.” This is the result:

Nice — great extra detail (microbrands allowed). Below is a tightened, ready-to-act shortlist of mechanical GMT / world-travel watches from respected Swiss or Japanese houses (including solid independents/microbrands). All are wearable daily, swim-capable, and fall within your €4,000–€5,000 price range (I note whether they’re typically new-retail, likely pre-owned, or easily within budget).

Shortlist (quick specs, why it fits, price guide):

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT on a bracelet

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

1) Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

What: Compact GMT from a respected Swiss house; 39mm × 12.8mm, 200m water resistance, 24-hour GMT bezel, and local-hour quickset.

Why it fits: Very comfortable for long wear, sporty yet tidy enough for smart casual/formal occasions, proper 200m WR for swimming, and straightforward travel usability. New retail sits well within your budget (and the pre-owned market shows many listings within €4k–5k). Tudorwatch

Estimated pricing: Commonly found around €4,000– 4,500 on the market, depending on the strap/bracelet and region. Chrono24

Formex Reef GMT with different bezels

Formex Reef GMT

2) Formex Reef GMT — best microbrand travel/diver

What: Swiss independent microbrand; the Reef GMT is a purpose-built travel diver with 300m WR, COSC options, quick-set GMT, and robust case/bracelet system (42mm but very wearable).

Why it fits: Excellent value for a GMT diver (swim-safe to 300m), with a sporty yet restrained design that pairs well with a T-shirt and can pass muster at smarter events; boasts a strong reputation among enthusiasts. The price and new availability put it well under €3k, so it’s comfortably within your budget if you want to reserve room for other options. Official FORMEX Swiss Made Watches®

Estimated pricing: ≈ €1,800–2,800 (new / depending on specs). WristRebels

Seiko Prospex LX Collection SNR033

3) Seiko Prospex LX Spring Drive GMT (SNR033 / LX line)

What: Seiko’s high-end Prospex LX series using Spring Drive GMT (cal. 5R66 or similar), titanium options, robust construction; many LX GMTs offer 200m+ WR.

Why it fits: Unmatched daily accuracy (Spring Drive), excellent travel ergonomics with GMT, and durable for swimming (some LX models are made of titanium and are very comfortable for travel). New retail can sit around or slightly above €5k, but pre-owned/AD deals often bring examples into your €4k–5k window. MyWatch EN

Estimated pricing: new often near €5k+; used/gray market ≈ €4k–€5k depending on reference/date. MyWatch EN

Norqain Freedom 60 GMT on the wrist

Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Opaline

4) Norqain Freedom 60 GMT (or equivalent Freedom GMT models) — Swiss independent

What: Swiss independent brand with robust, travel-oriented GMT pieces (40mm Freedom 60 GMT variants). WR typically ranges from 100–200m, depending on the model.

Why it fits: Independent Swiss manufacture, clean vintage/sport design that suits both casual and smarter looks, and GMT functionality for travel. Good quality and brand story — increasingly respected. Many limited/standard editions are priced within the €3,500–4,500 budget range. Norqain

Estimated pricing: ≈ CHF/€4k–4.2k for many Freedom 60 GMT editions; some special editions vary. Norqain

Oris Aquis GMT Date omn a pink background

Oris Aquis GMT Date

5) Oris Aquis GMT Date

What: Tried-and-true Swiss sport diver with a GMT ring (43.5mm typical), 300m dive capability on many Aquis models, in-house-ish caliber ecosystem (Oris 798 and variants).

Why it fits: Outstanding daily comfort and durability, substantial value for a Swiss GMT diver, easily swim-safe 300m WR, can be dressed up or down. It’s well under your cap, leaving room for straps or a second watch. Oris

Estimated pricing: retail ≈ €2,500–3,500, approximately, depending on specifications and dealer. Chrono24

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere on the wrist

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere

6) Montblanc 1858 Geosphere (world timer/travel complication)

What: Montblanc’s distinctive world-time/Geosphere complication (visual dual hemispheres + city ring). Many versions are 100m WR (so swim-capable for casual swimming, but check the model).

Why it fits: If you want an instant world-time readout (instead of a GMT-only option), the Geosphere is one of the most legible and distinctive choices; it’s versatile in style and travel-centric. New flagship pieces can be priced above €5k, but many market listings and some variants fall within the €4k–5k range. Chrono24

Estimated pricing: Varies widely — often €3k–5k on the secondhand market; some new editions exceed €5k.

Tudor Black Bay GMT up close

What did Google Gemini find for me?

The answer to my question started with a nice compliment:

That’s a fantastic set of criteria, and with your 20 years of experience, you know exactly what you need in a versatile, reliable timepiece.

The combination of GMT functionality, 40mm comfort, water resistance for swimming, a mechanical movement, and a budget of €4,000–5,000 from a Swiss or Japanese brand points clearly toward some of the best-value luxury travel watches on the market.

Based on your requirements for a daily, travel, and semi-formal watch, we have compiled a list of top-tier recommendations from established and reputable brands that meet your specifications.

Top Recommendations for a GMT Watch (Swiss/Japanese):

Tudor Black Bay GMT

Tudor Black Bay GMT

1) Tudor Black Bay GMT (Swiss)

Size: 41mm (it wears quite comfortably, slightly over your 40mm, but is a staple daily watch)

Movement: Calibre MT5652 (COSC-certified, “True” or “Traveler” GMT function)

Water Resistance: 200m (Excellent for swimming and diving)

Aesthetics: The iconic “Pepsi” or “Root Beer” bezel variants offer a sporty yet classical look that is highly versatile. It’s robust enough for a T-shirt and has enough presence for a formal event, especially on a bracelet.

Why it fits: It’s the benchmark in this price range for a mechanical, water-resistant, “true” GMT from an established Swiss brand, and it is built for precisely the type of daily, versatile use you describe.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm flat lay

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm L3.802.5.53.2

2) Longines Spirit Zulu Time (Swiss)

Size: 39mm (Perfectly meets your size requirement)

Movement: L844.4 (COSC-certified, “True” or “Traveler” GMT function, silicon balance spring)

Water Resistance: 100m (Safe for swimming and water sports)

Aesthetics: This modern take on a vintage pilot’s watch boasts superb finishing, making it appear much more expensive than its price tag. The legible dial and often-ceramic bezel offer a clean, sophisticated look that is easily dressed up or down.

Why it fits: It offers a strong value proposition with a certified chronometer “Flyer” GMT movement in a perfectly sized 39mm case. It’s sophisticated and comfortable for daily wear and travel.

Grand Seiko SBGM245 and SBGM247 side by side

Grand Seiko SBGM245 and SBGM247

3) Grand Seiko Mechanical/Spring Drive GMT (Japanese)

Size: Models vary, but look for the 40mm and 40.5mm cases (e.g., SBGM221, SBGM247, or certain Sport GMTs)

Movement: Mechanical 9S (Hi-Beat) or Spring Drive 9R (High-accuracy, unique glide motion)

Water Resistance: Varies, but many Sport GMT models are 100m or 200m.

Aesthetics: Grand Seiko is renowned for its Zaratsu polishing, which makes its watches look stunningly sharp and formal, even in a sporty configuration. They excel at “dressy-sport.”

Why it fits: It’s a Japanese powerhouse known for high-horology finishing. While some models may retail slightly above €5,000, excellent examples can be found in the €4,000–5,000 range, especially on the secondary market. The quality and unique movement technology are exceptional.

Monta Skyquest GMT

Monta Skyquest GMT

Microbrand consideration

Since you mentioned microbrands, some options meet some of your criteria; however, few currently breach the €4,000–5,000 price point, as that is usually reserved for established luxury brands.

A highly regarded microbrand for tool watches is Monta (US-based but uses a Swiss-made ETA movement). Journalists and enthusiasts often praise the Monta Atlas GMT or Monta Skyquest series for their finishing and comfort.

Monta Skyquest GMT: ~US$2,500 (approx. €2,300). 40mm, 300m water resistance, Swiss ETA 2893-2 movement. While well under your budget, it offers incredible quality and hits all your functional requirements (GMT, 40mm, swimming) with an excellent reputation.

Given your budget, the established luxury brands, like Tudor, Longines, and Grand Seiko, offer a combination of brand cachet, in-house or chronometer movements, and finishing that is hard to beat.

Longines Spirit Zulu GMT 39mm Titanium

Longines Spirit Zulu GMT 39mm Titanium

My pick

Now, what watch did I pick using my natural intelligence? Was it a recommendation by either ChatGPT or Google Gemini? Well, ChatGPT didn’t suggest it, but Google Gemini did, although it doesn’t specify if it was the steel or the titanium version. My watch of choice is the 39mm Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium ref. L3.802.1.53.6, priced at €4,500. Why? It features a 39mm diameter, a Grade 5 titanium case and bracelet, and an automatic “flyer” GMT movement that offers a 72-hour power reserve. The additional fact that it is a certified chronometer, resulting in an accuracy of between +6 and -4 seconds per day, also helped me pick this watch.

Grand Seiko GMT "Moondrop" SBGM257

Grand Seiko GMT “Moondrop” SBGM257

Did either AI tool make me change my mind? Well, Google’s Gemini suggestion for Grand Seiko did make me look up the suggested references. But the great SBGM247 is more than €1,000 above my maximum budget, so that one is out of the question. The “Moondrop” SBGM257, however, is just €200 above budget, but it wasn’t suggested.

The Monta rang a bell, but that microbrand GMT looks too much like the “OG” Rolex GMT-Master to me. ChatGPT told me to take a look at the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere on Chrono24, as you can find these watches new and unworn on there for around €5k, although it knows the retail price is well above that. That’s clever because it also tells you a new watch can be purchased through different channels. The 43.5mm Aquis GMT Date is just too big and tells me that ChatGPT thinks bigger is better.

Dial of the Longines Spirit Zulu GMT 39mm Titanium

I ask AI to find me a new watch — Final words

Small conclusion: AI can help you find your watch based on a personal prompt, but it also often doesn’t “respect” boundaries in terms of price and size. It could bring to attention watches you didn’t think of, but that’s also what talking to kindred spirits can do. As I see it, the quest for a new watch is about the fun and emotion on the road to the final purchase rather than simply buying it as quickly as possible.

What do you think, and where do you stand on the use of AI in the search for a new watch? Would you ever ask AI to find you a new watch? Please let me know in the comments.