Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 Polished Steel Bezel Collection
Doxa is back again with a new release! This time, it’s a variant of the popular and affordable Sub 200. The 42mm dive watch was released in 2019 at Baselworld, and this is the first major update.
While in Geneva for Watches and Wonders and the adjacent events, we visited Doxa on our first night. We were able to see all of the Sub 250T GMT models, but the brand held a second case of watches on the back table until the second half of the meeting. Those pieces were under embargo for another month, but we had plenty of time with the new Sub 200. How is it new? The bezels lose the sapphire insert and gain a polished stainless steel version. This small change is welcome and makes a big difference.
The Doxa Sub 200 polished steel bezel
Doxa kept the current Sub 200 case dimensions for the latest models with polished steel bezels. This translates to a 42mm by 45mm 316L stainless steel case with a 14mm thickness. As the name implies, the watches have a 200m depth rating. Typical diving accouterments, including a screw-down crown, a steel screw-in case back, and a sapphire crystal, help bolster the water resistance.
Regarding the variants, Doxa is sticking with what works on the existing Sub 200 — yes, the models with sapphire bezels will remain in the catalog. A total of eight dial variants are part of the regular catalog and include the orange Professional, black Sharkhunter, silver sunray Searambler, yellow Divingstar, dark blue Caribbean, white Whitepearl, turquoise Aquamarine, and green sunray Sea Emerald.
Each variant contains a generous application of blue-glowing Super-LumiNova on the applied indexes and polished metal hands. The unidirectional bezel has a luminous arrow to aid timing as well.
Loads of choices
Doxa offers the Sub 200 on a textured FKM rubber strap with a stainless steel pin buckle as standard. For an extra €40 (more on pricing shortly), the watch will come with a stainless steel beads-of-rice bracelet with a wetsuit-extension clasp. The green Sea Emerald is the lone model offered on a one-piece nylon strap instead of rubber.
A reliable automatic movement inside
Doxa keeps its options open and doesn’t mention the provider of the automatic movement inside the Sub 200. However, we’re pretty sure the Sellita SW200-1 is ticking away. It has a frequency of 28,800vph and approximately 38 hours of power reserve. It also hacks and has a quick-set date function.
Does the polished bezel make a difference?
Trading out the sapphire bezel insert for a polished stainless steel version doesn’t sound like a big deal. On paper, it’s not! However, the option makes a huge difference in person. The Sub 200 transitions from a serious-looking tool watch into a brighter, more elegant piece. These haven’t suddenly become dress watches, but they are cleaner and more suitable for a wider variety of environments. By the way, Doxa isn’t alone with this move. Omega did it in the past with the Seamaster 300M, and Tudor gussied up the Submariner with a mirror-like bezel in the ’90s. The look works, and I expect it to find success for those who wish to wear a Sub 200 to the office and the beach.
Pricing and final thoughts
The great thing about the latest Sub 200 pieces is that the pricing is consistent with the sapphire-bezel-equipped models. The Sea Emerald on the nylon strap sells for €970, the pieces on FKM straps cost €1,110, and the bracelet option runs €1,150. There’s nothing to argue about with these prices, and, better yet, the watches are all available on the Doxa site and at authorized retailers. Again, it’s a small change, but a worthy one! Let us know your thoughts on the polished stainless steel bezels!
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