Pre-Owned Picks — Two-Tone Dive Watches From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko
The oxymoron of a professional tool with luxurious precious metal elements is a profoundly odd concept. Yet as I have discovered, the combination of gold and steel traces back much further than I previously acknowledged. My watch selections today consist of two-tone divers with serious street cred.
All these watches were selected carefully by me without any influence from Chrono24. I chose the topic and found suitable wristwatches that related to the topic. I only request the high-resolution photos from Chrono24 without the watermark. As these are only my suggestions, it is advised that you carry out your own research on the watch details and the seller. Ask as many relevant questions you feel are necessary for the watch, and a good seller should answer with accuracy and honesty.
Without further ado, let’s get into my Pre-Owned Picks from Chrono24.
Rolex Sea-Dweller 126603 two-tone
Three years ago, Rolex unveiled the Sea-Dweller in an updated 43mm case, with cyclops date magnification and red text for “Sea-Dweller”. The cyclops window was certainly a talking point back then and hasn’t quite subsided yet. But there is no disputing the demand for this watch massively outweighed that of the outgoing Sea-Dweller 4000 that it replaced.
In 2019, Rolex extended the range with a two-tone steel and 18k yellow gold option — or “Rolesor”. This is the first time a Sea-Dweller, the most professional of its professional watches, has been rendered in precious metal. However, Rolex still passes it off as a homage to its original Deep-Sea prototype from 1953. An interesting fact is that this prototype included these gold parts because the tools of the time could not machine steel to the exactness required. The specifications called for intricate details to survive the depths of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
The 2017 Sea-Dweller forms the platform for this model with the fully graduated 60-minute bezel in black Cerachrom having gold-toned numerals and gold Sea-Dweller text on the dial adding an overall more luxurious feel. The bi-color Sea-Dweller can reach the same depth of 1,220m as the Oystersteel counterpart though the added heft of the gold on this watch may get you there sooner.
The price of the two-tone Sea-Dweller at retail is €15,000. But you’ll be happy to know the listing I’ve found on Chrono24 is only at a slight premium of €15,976, without the waiting list.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 two-tone
If my previous pick sends you to the deepest trenches, then my next choice punches you through the seabed to the Earth’s core. The Spring Drive GMT Diver range saw an expansion this year with smaller diameter offerings. Balázs gave an excellent overview of the new SBGE models here. But as this is the Sports collection from Grand Seiko, I am going full heavyweight with the hefty 44mm SBGE248. The blue and 18k gold details throw discretion out of the window.
Putting the striking details aside, the underlying tech powering the piece is positively outstanding. The Spring Drive movement still maintains a mechanical mix of gears with a quartz oscillating regulator. All of this comes at €12,500 when bought new. This listing on Chrono24 has an example in brand new condition, still with the stickers on, and box and papers for €8,496.
Omega Seamaster 300 two-tone
I’ll admit I was a bit slow on the uptake of the Seamaster 300 range. I think it comes down to my confusion surrounding the terminology. The Seamaster 300 is a heritage model that bases the looks on the original Seamaster 300 from 1957. It’s not a direct homage akin to the Seamaster 300 “Trilogy” that replicates the CK2913. Instead, it beefs up the case with more modern dimensions.
Neither is the Seamaster 300 related to the Seamaster Professional 300m. That “m” makes a big difference. It spins off an entirely new diver-centric collection that debuted in 1993 — even though all the models mentioned above are technically diving watches. Are you confused yet? Yeah, that was me.
Naming aside — and I do think Omega should freshen up its naming categories — the Seamaster 300 is a glorious watch. It’s got the heritage chops but with a modern sheen. Immensely wearable in a variety of scenarios, the Seamaster 300, takes you from pool to panorama bar without hesitation. As with my previous picks, I am selecting the two-tone offering for a bit of flair. But not the steel and yellow gold option. I like ‘90s design aesthetics, but the yellow gold and steel is just a tad too “Wall Street” for my tastes. Instead, the Sedna gold has the delicate balance of restraint and flash and maintains the gold-tone theme with the shark-tooth indices and hands.
Price is currently €11,890 from Omega, but once again, Chrono24 has your back with an example for €8,118.