In the words of the great Huey Lewis, “It’s hip to be square!” Just as the lyrics of this ’80s hit refer to it being cool to be conventional, the Nomos Tetra celebrates the traditional square dress watch in style. But there is a twist to both the song and the watches. As Lewis explained, his lyrics were written in the third person and parody the celebration of normality, so the song is far from a statement against the rebellious and bohemian. The same applies to the Nomos Tetra lineup. At first glance, these dress watches appear somewhat more austere than the brand’s other offerings. However, their clever dials are a welcome twist and make the Tetra collection far more interesting than a glance might suggest. The Tetra Origins series is more proof of that.

The story of these dials is pretty straightforward. The colors of nature inspired the Nomos design team to choose a series of muted hues. However, as the designers so aptly apply to many Nomos watches, all four of these dials feature a welcome color twist. It makes the Tetra Origins series a nice addition to the brand’s lineup, which I recently praised for its innovative use of colors. As you will understand, I was more than happy to go hands-on with all four models.

Nomos Tetra Basalt on top of white marble square, crown up

The details of the Nomos Tetra Origins series

Let’s start with some specifications and details. All four Tetra Origins models feature a 29.5mm square stainless steel case with beautifully stepped lugs, resulting in a 40.5mm length from tip to tip. The lugs bring character to the Bauhaus-inspired Tetra, giving it a lovable charm.

Nomos Tetra Origins case profile, crown side

The case also has a modest 6.5mm profile, making the watch extremely slim and a joy to wear. Additionally, the watches are rated water resistant to 5 atm, which Nomos specifies as “splash-proof.” It’s probably not the best idea to jump into water with these Tetra models, but at least they should be able to handle some rain.

Nomos Tetra Ochra flat-lay on white marble square

The Tetra Origins series comprises four dial variations that follow previous designs, featuring numerals for the even hours and a sub-dial for the seconds at 6 o’clock. The first of the four dials, Ochra, is golden yellow with black numerals and has a lighter yellow sub-dial with bright red markings and a vibrant yellow seconds hand.

Nomos Tetra Salvia, head on

The second model is the Tetra Salvia with a muted green dial with black numerals. Additionally, it features a blue sub-dial with yellow markings and a slightly lighter blue seconds hand. Out of the four models, this one has the most subdued colorway.

Nomos Tetra Terra flat-lay on white marble square, diagonal view

The two most surprising dial options are the Terra and Basalt dials

The third model is the Tetra Terra, featuring a terracotta-red dial and a lavender-colored sub-dial. Yellow markings and a light blue seconds hand contrast with the muted purple look of the sub-seconds register. I was quickly drawn to the combination of red and lavender, as it creates a surprisingly nice color palette.

Nomos Tetra Basalt flat-lay, head on

The last model, the Tetra Basalt, seems like the most conventional of the four options. Zoom in, though, and you will find that it’s pretty detailed as well. The anthracite sub-dial is contrasted by fuchsia markings and a bright yellow seconds hand, making for a rather intricate dial option. All four models feature sharp, rhodium-plated hands, which contrast especially nicely with the lighter dial colors.

Nomos Tetra Terra on top of white marble square, crown up

Beyond the dials

Additionally, all four watches come fitted with a nice 18mm beige vegan velour strap with a stainless steel buckle. If you are not a fan of this strap, you can also opt for a stainless steel bracelet that makes the watches look much sportier. I usually would pick a stainless steel bracelet, but for this neat series of dress watches, I would always choose a strap.

Nomos Tetra Origins case back and movement

If you turn the watch around, you get a clear view of the in-house-built caliber DUW 4001. That is, if you choose the case back with the sapphire display. Nomos also offers an all-steel case back, and if you don’t want or need to see the movement, this will save you a bit of money.

Nomos Tetra Origins case back and movement

Either way, the 17-jewel manual-winding caliber operates at 21,600 beats per hour and offers a 53-hour power reserve. It’s a neatly finished caliber with tempered, blued screws, Glashütte stripes on the upper plate and bridge, perlage on the mainplate, and snailing on the ratchet wheel.

Nomos Tetra Salvia pocket shot

Wearing the Nomos Tetra Origins series

On the wrist, the new Tetra Origins models are interesting. Nomos predominantly targets ladies with these, and considering the smaller case size, I understand that choice. Having said that, if the size fits your wrist, you should not have any issue wearing these Tetras.

Nomos Tetra Basalt on wrist

Honestly, I love wearing these models because of their compact size, and large square watches tend to be less comfortable. Additionally, these Tetras have plenty of wrist presence, making them fun to wear.

Nomos Tetra Ochra wrist shot

What immediately stands out are the nice proportions of the Tetra. I have worn the brilliant quartet of remarkably named models that Nacho reviewed, and I adore those. I was immediately reminded of how much I love them and how comfortable they are on the wrist. The cases will be too small for some people, but I found them to be perfect for my 18.5cm (7.3″) wrist.

Nomos Tetra Terra on wrist, holding strap closed

Final thoughts on the Nomos Tetra Origins series

What is left to say other than that I love these Tetra models and that they’re a great second pick on my Nomos wishlist after the much-praised Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer? To answer which of the four versions I prefer, I must say that it’s a close call between the black Basalt variant, with its nice bright hints of color in the sub-dial, and the red Terra, with its surprising combination of colors.

Nomos Tetra Salvia on wrist, arms crossed

With dial colors that are both comfortable and stylish, the Tetra Origins series feels like a perfect addition to the Nomos catalog. The small color accents are nice touches that command a closer look. They are the personal details that make me appreciate them more.

Nomos Tetra Basalt pocket shot

Do the new Origins models beat the previously mentioned quartet of “Die Unerreichbare,” “Die Wildentschlossene,” “Die Fuchsteufelswilde,” and “Die Kapriziöse?” I must admit that those four stole my heart due to their outstanding dials. However, if you prefer a more subdued Tetra that blends in a little better and features subtle hints of color in the sub-dial, one of the Origins variants could be the perfect choice for you.

Nomos Tetra Ochra on wrist, lifestyle shot

The new Tetra Origins models cost €1,960 on the strap with an all-steel case back. With a display case back, each retails for €2,180. If you prefer the bracelet, you can purchase it at an extra €60, which is quite reasonable.

Nomos Tetra Terra pocket shot

All in all, the Nomos Tetra Origins series confirms that the German brand is the go-to choice for well-thought-out and unique color combinations. What makes these new Tetras stand out is that these color combinations are quieter and less obvious than those used for previous models. It’s a clever choice that shows Nomos leads the way in the use of color.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Tetra Origins
Reference
437 (Ochra) / 438 (Terra) / 439 (Salvia) / 440 (Basalt)
Dial
Golden yellow with light yellow sub-dial (Ochra), terracotta red with lavender sub-dial (Terra), or muted green with light blue sub-dial (Salvia), all with black numerals and markings, or black with anthracite sub-dial (Basalt) and beige numerals and markings
Case Material
Stainless steel
Case Dimensions
29.5mm (diameter) × 40.5mm (lug-to-lug) × 6.5mm (thickness)
Crystal
Sapphire
Case Back
Stainless steel with sapphire display or all stainless steel, affixed with four screws
Movement
Nomos DUW 4001: manual winding with hacking seconds, 21,600vph frequency, 53-hour power reserve, 17 jewels, Glashütte stripes, perlage, snailing, blued screws
Water Resistance
5 atm (splash-proof)
Strap
Beige vegan velour (18mm width) with stainless steel buckle
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, small seconds)
Price
€1,960 (steel case back) / €2,180 (display case back)