Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Vs. Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060

Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we put the new Omega Planet Ocean 600M to work. We’re not giving it an easy start to life, pitting it against the mighty Rolex Submariner “No-Date” ref. 124060. Jorg has the honor of defending the new Omega, while Thomas sides with the Rolex.

Now, before you pull out your pitchforks, we are aware that the Planet Ocean spiritually competes with the Sea-Dweller, while the Seamaster Dive 300 challenges the Submariner. After much debate, we opted to pit the PO against the Submariner nonetheless. Why? Because it is the most direct competitor in a realistic shopping scenario. After all, the Planet Ocean costs €9,100 and the Submariner costs €9,600, putting them squarely in each other’s crosshairs. Furthermore, Omega explicitly restyled the PO to be more of an everyday luxury watch. All of this combined moved us to pit it against the Sub.

But first, last week’s showdown

Before we let the boys loose in the ring, we have to look at last week’s showdown. The Citizen Super Titanium Zenshin Small Seconds defeated the Tissot PRX Titanium 38mm. It was a close call, though, at 52% for Citizen and 48% for Tissot.

Sifting through the comments, we noticed the Citizen scored points for a more outspoken, “funky” design. You also seem to appreciate the affordability, Super Titanium, and great lume. Meanwhile, the Tissot received points for a cleaner design and slightly better build. All in all, the scales tipped in favor of the Citizen.

And with that out of the way, let’s get into today’s showdown!

Image: The Watch Club

Thomas: Rolex Submariner “No-Date” ref. 124060

Good morning, Fratelli! And good morning, Jorg. This feels like a big one. The new Planet Ocean 600M represents a new generation for Omega’s hardcore diver. Meanwhile, the Rolex Submariner is arguably the benchmark for dive watches in this segment. Omega has explicitly described the design process as one of adding everyday luxury to the PO. As a result, it shifts closer to the Submariner and away from the Sea-Dweller in spirit.

So, today’s big question is: does it succeed? Does the new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M successfully blend hardcore-diving-tool vibes with luxury? Or should you still get your Rolex AD to jot down your name for a Sub if luxurious subaquatic shenanigans are your jam?

Naturally, I will argue that the Submariner lives up to this ambition better than the new PO. Let me present my case based on technical specifications first, before discussing design and purpose.

Image: The Watch Club

The Submariner bests the Planet Ocean 600M

Although the Rolex Submariner “No-Date” ref. 124060 is five years old, it still outperforms the brand-new Planet Ocean in terms of specs. Caliber 3230 in the Rolex ticks at 28,800vph for 70 hours straight on a single wind. Omega’s caliber 8920 has a lower beat rate of 25,500vph and lasts for 60 hours. Admittedly, such numbers mean very little in real life. Still, details matter. Rolex promises an accuracy of ±2 seconds per day, while Omega offers 0/+5 seconds.

The Planet Ocean 600M comes with the eponymous 600m water resistance, doubling the Sub’s 300m rating. It does so, however, at the expense of a 13.8mm thickness versus the Sub’s 12mm profile. If we’re talking about everyday luxury, thickness matters quite a bit.

I feel a bit dirty stating those dry spec-sheet metrics, as they don’t do justice to the experience of handling and owning a watch at all. I have one more technical aspect that makes a big difference, though. The new Planet Ocean’s bracelet comes with an absolutely massive clasp. Yet, inexplicably, Omega hasn’t managed to keep the toolless micro-adjustment internal. That means that, if you extend the clasp, you get a ghastly visible gap. Rolex’s Glidelock, meanwhile, is best in class.

Visual hierarchy

Okay, those were just a few minor jabs I wanted to get in before getting to my main point. Where things really start working for the Submariner is in design. I have the two watches side by side on my screen as I write this, and I can feel the muscles around my eyes relaxing as I shift my gaze from the Planet Ocean 600M to the Submariner.

The reason is visual hierarchy. The Rolex guides the eye naturally to the hour and minute hands; everything else is secondary. The Omega, by contrast, lacks such hierarchy in its visual elements. The bezel completely overpowers the dial. The polished numerals disappear or flash at you, depending on the light. Crucially, too many elements have the same weight, fighting for your attention. It makes the Omega look overly complicated, less legible, and — bottom line — less beautiful.

Image: The Watch Club

What makes a luxury diver?

If anything, these two watches demonstrate that luxury isn’t a matter of adding shiny facets. To me, the Planet Ocean 600M displays a bit of a split personality. There is still a hardcore diver in there somewhere, but there is so much bling surrounding it. This point is probably best illustrated by the controversial polished center links.

If you ask me, the Rolex Submariner “No-Date” shows how to do it. It feels more congruent and purposeful. The luxury element comes from superior construction and execution. I would argue that the Submariner looks more luxurious by not trying as hard. As a result, I find it prettier, more versatile, and more timeless. Perhaps I should leave it at that. Jorg, tell the good people why the Planet Ocean 600M is the one to get!

Jorg: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M

Thanks, Thomas! Let me start my rebuttal by saying that I don’t have the illusion that we will change people’s minds on their preferences. Besides the discussion about the watches, we both know that the bigger context includes general brand preference. This preference may be based on personal history with a brand or model, or it may simply be a bias due to what we conclude from a distance. Either way, we’re not likely to sway anyone with this Sunday Morning Showdown.

If we then zoom in on the Rolex Submariner, I don’t have many negative things to say about it. The one thing I could say is that it’s the obvious choice and therefore a bit boring. But is that really a bad thing? I love the Submariner just as much as you do, which is why I decided to take a different route. I want to focus on why the fourth-generation Seamaster Planet Ocean represents an incredible step forward for Omega. With this introduction, the Planet Ocean has finally become relevant to me after 20 years.

Exploring the new Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M

When the two Planet Ocean models we had first landed in the Fratello offices, I was happily surprised. At first glance, I was immediately drawn to the aesthetic, which I prefer over any of the previous generations. I like the 42mm Planet Ocean that Daniel Craig wore in Quantum of Solace (ref. 2201.50.00), but that sentiment is also driven by my love for 007. It’s the one model that stood out to me, but I still never considered buying one.

With this new Planet Ocean, we get a new design that is inherently different without abandoning its Planet Ocean feel. It is more modern, feels more relevant, and caters to my taste a lot better. Now, Thomas, we both know — and some of the Fratelli also do — that as resident Fratello design snobs, there is always a lot to discuss when it comes to design. Over the years, I have always enjoyed our lively conversations on the topic. One thing that has always stood out is that we sometimes differ in opinion about a simple thing: what constitutes design perfection? To us, I have found that it often means very different things.

Perfection in imperfection

Let me elaborate on that a bit. For me, perfection can also lie in imperfection. A great example is my Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT. We can discuss how we dislike something about that watch, and we would likely agree. I have gone on record multiple times admitting that I am not a fan of the brand’s logo, I don’t like the trident counterweight on the seconds hand, and the arrow-shaped hour hand is also far from perfectly balanced. But all three points became moot thanks to how the watch made me feel the moment I started wearing it for the hands-on review. It sparked a love that evolved into ownership, and it has become one of my most-worn and cherished watches in my collection, as you are well aware.

It goes to show that a rational explanation of why things do not work does not necessarily lead to the rejection of a watch. Reading your critique of the watch, I can agree with some of it. Like many people, I am not a fan of the polished center links. They add a glitzy detail to the design that the watch doesn’t need. Am I bothered by the idea of Omega “luxuryifying” the Planet Ocean? If that’s a principle to pick a Rolex, that’s comical at best. Additionally, the polished links didn’t bother me when I put the black Planet Ocean on my wrist. I was far more interested in discovering how the design was rooted in the brand’s past. The fact that I found multiple references in Omega’s rich history of dive watches genuinely excited me.

Finding references in Omega’s rich past

The new, angular 42mm case design is reminiscent of the wonderful Omega Seamaster 200 “SHOM.” However, the one influence I felt most strongly was the design connection to the brilliant Omega Seamaster 300 ref. 165.024. The dial design and the short-lugged compact silhouette of that watch resemble the feel of the new Planet Ocean. So, instead of analyzing all the different design elements in a vacuum, I connected with the new Planet Ocean immediately due to Omega’s rich history of creating some of the best dive watches ever.

Combine that sentiment with the optimized details, and I was super impressed when I tried the watch on. The new case sits very well on my 18.5cm wrist, the bracelet is super comfortable, and I think the watch looks great. And all of us, especially our fellow Fratello writer Daan, were surprised to see how well it fit his 17cm wrist. Secondly, I like the strong, compact look of the dial, referring to the classic Seamasters, in combination with the wide bezel. Like you, I am also not a big fan of the style of the numerals on the bezel, but once again, that did not bother me when I wore the watch.

The new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M just feels good

I could go on for a bit, making the same point repeatedly. Or I could focus on the details, but you have already pointed out the specs of both watches, so I will also refrain from that. However, I would like to wrap things up by returning to how I started my part of this argument. I don’t think we’ll convince any Submariner fans to pick the Planet Ocean, or vice versa, in this battle. But I can say that I love the new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M based on seeing it, wearing it, and connecting to it beyond individual details.

That connection got me really excited about the new Planet Ocean, and that’s why it is my pick in this matchup. Sometimes, the obvious choice is also the less exciting one. For me, a significant part of choosing a watch is my excitement for it. That’s exactly what the new Planet Ocean gives me, and that’s something I would have never expected from a new Planet Ocean line. It makes the impact even bigger, and I can say that Omega has done a great job converting me to loving the Planet Ocean. Especially knowing that I didn’t before that, it makes it a stronger personal statement for me than the current Submariner.

Time to cast your vote

There you have it — two great dive watches from two big luxury watch brands. Which one will you go for? Will it be the Rolex Submariner, the watch that set the modern standard for dive watches, or the brand-new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean that cleverly connects Omega’s rich past in dive watches with a crisp new design? Cast your vote, and make sure to let us know why you chose the watch you did in the comments below. We’ll see you back here next week for another Sunday Morning Showdown!