Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB005
Yes, it’s that time again — time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! This week, we picked two technologically impressive watches. The first is the Rolex Land-Dweller, which debuted during Watches and Wonders in April of this year. The Land-Dweller will go up against the Grand Seiko SLGB005 that was introduced in September of this year. Both watches not only look amazing but also represent a technological step forward for both brands. Let’s see which of the two will come out on top in this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown.
When we first started considering this week’s matchup, the logical pairing in terms of aesthetics was the white-dial Land-Dweller versus the blue-silver-dial SLGB003. There was one issue, though: the Rolex is stainless steel, and the Grand Seiko is titanium, which is a potentially unfair difference. Plus, it makes perfect sense to test the Land-Dweller’s divisive dial against a Grand Seiko with an impressive one. While it might not be everyone’s cup of tea, will it still be the favorite against the Land-Dweller? Let’s find out!
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Before we let Mike and Jorg make their respective cases, let’s look back at last week’s showdown. In that matchup, we pitted two affordable dress watches against each other. The newly introduced Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage ended up taking 63% of the votes versus 37% for the Serica Parade 1174. For us, it was a rather surprising result. It wasn’t that we didn’t think Raymond Weil could win; on the contrary, we are well aware of the brand’s popularity. However, the margin by which the Toccata Heritage won was rather surprising to us. In the comments, we saw sentiments echoing the votes, resulting in a clear victory for the new Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage. With that out of the way, let’s get into this week’s battle.
Jorg: Grand Seiko SLGB005
Picking this week’s favorite was easy for me. I had the pleasure of spending time with both watches, and I must admit that both are truly impressive. I even picked the Land-Dweller in a previous installment of our Sunday Morning Showdown series against Patek Philippe’s much-debated Cubitus. That choice was also a no-brainer for me. Additionally, I wrote a lengthy article comparing the two available Land-Dweller sizes to determine whether the 36mm or 40mm version was better for me. In that article, I also expressed my main “issue” with the Land-Dweller. If Rolex introduces updated dials for the Land-Dweller, choosing between today’s contenders will be a lot tougher.
Both in design and technology, the Land-Dweller is impressive. The ’70s-inspired design revives the fan-favorite Oysterquartz aesthetic, which I love. Additionally, it is hard to deny that the new high-beat caliber 7135 is a technological tour de force, featuring a ceramic balance staff and Dynapulse escapement. But what if I tell you that my Grand Seiko SLGB005 is equally impressive thanks to its new 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber? The movement is accurate to approximately ±3 seconds per month. As a result, it is the most accurate mainspring-powered wristwatch caliber available today.
Furthermore, the SLGB005 has a beautifully sculpted Evolution 9 case paired with a stunning purple dial. All this results in a watch that is the complete package, whereas the Land-Dweller hasn’t reached its full potential. It made the choice a reasonably easy one in today’s matchup.
The story of the Grand Seiko SLGB005
Let’s go into more detail. If you are not familiar with Grand Seiko’s quest for the ultimate precision, read my introductory article about the SLGB001 and SLGB003. The two watches are the first powered by the groundbreaking new 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber and were introduced at Watches and Wonders this year. In that article, I explained more about the Grand Seiko V.F.A. (Very Fine Adjusted) series. This special line was in the brand’s catalog from 1969 to 1975 and showcased a unique level of craftsmanship in creating the ultimate wristwatches.
With the U.F.A. series, Grand Seiko picks up its quest for accuracy with a slightly different name. The U.F.A. moniker stands for “Ultra Fine Accuracy.” It marks the brand’s next superlative degree in watchmaking precision. While Grand Seiko rates the Spring Drive caliber 9RB2’s monthly accuracy at ±3 seconds, the brand also states the yearly accuracy is ±20 seconds. On top of that, this movement retains the typical 72-hour power reserve. But an equally impressive feature is that Grand Seiko has kept the dimensions limited to a 30mm diameter and 5.02mm thickness. This opens the door to smaller Spring Drive-powered models, like this new SLGB005.
The details of the impressive SLGB005
The SLGB005 has a 37mm Ever-Brilliant Steel case with an 11.4mm thickness and a 44.3mm lug-to-lug. It makes this Grand Seiko a perfectly proportioned daily wearer for a variety of wrist sizes.
The beautifully sculpted case shows great design sense with its perfect balance of longtime familiarity and modern-day relevance. The finishing is nothing short of impressive, as we would expect from Grand Seiko, emphasizing the case’s faceted lines.
But where the Grand Seiko truly wins for me is the dial. I am well aware that not everyone likes the SLGB005’s very purple dial over the Land-Dweller’s white one, which is much easier on the eye. Nevertheless, I adore the beautiful purple dial, with its refined tree-inspired texture. The color transitions from a slightly lighter shade in the center to a super dark, almost blackish purple at the edges of the dial.
On top of that, the presence changes depending on how the light hits the dial. It looks deep, dark purple in darker conditions and, from some angles, almost looks grayish black. But as soon as you move the dial, the rich purple shade reveals itself. The level of detail and the richness of the color make this one of Grand Seiko’s best.
But there is so much more to it than just its purple tone. Look at those beautifully faceted hands and markers! They are executed meticulously, creating a dial that feels perfectly balanced.
The Grand Seiko SLGB005 is magic on the wrist
This Grand Seiko SLGB005 really is the full package. If I had the necessary €11,000 floating around somewhere, I would spend it on this watch without hesitation. On the wrist, the watch truly comes to life. There, you see the perfect marriage between the beautifully sculpted case and that wonderfully stylish dial.
And yes, I would take the lack of micro-adjustment in the clasp for granted. Admittedly, it is a peculiar realization that the titanium model introduced earlier comes with the redesigned clasp, whereas this steel model doesn’t.
However, after trying the watch for the review, it doesn’t bother me. I was able to wear it without any issues, and that is what matters. I genuinely adore this Grand Seiko SLGB005 for all that it has to offer. That’s why it was one of my favorite hands-on experiences this year and why I would pick it every time over the Rolex Land-Dweller. But do explain why I am wrong, Mike.
Mike: Rolex Land-Dweller 36
Once again, I find myself in a tough battle with my old nemesis, Jorg. He has picked a stonker of a rival to the Rolex Land-Dweller 36 with his Grand Seiko U.F.A. SLGB005. I’ve seen the watch in the metal, and it is a beauty. In fact, the U.F.A. in any color is probably one of the best releases from Grand Seiko within the last several years. So, what could challenge such a fantastic watch? Well, Rolex would like a word.
It was somewhat of a poorly kept secret leading up to Watches and Wonders 2025 that Rolex would re-enter the market of integrated-bracelet sports watches. What we didn’t know, however, was that the new line would introduce a new movement worthy of attention.
Dial details and a design to rival the Grand Seiko
Admittedly, the Land-Dweller’s dial design has caused a fair amount of consternation among the brand’s normally faithful fans. For sure, it’s a unique look with its patterned motif and combination of baton indexes and Arabic numerals. I wasn’t sure at first, but after handling and trying on the watches, I was convinced that the overall design works well. Plus, like Grand Seiko, I imagine that Rolex will introduce additional colors over time.
General construction and finishing
Where Rolex continues to have an edge over Grand Seiko is in the general fit. First, the Land-Dweller 36 is just 9.7mm thick compared to 11.4mm for the SLGB005. Then, there’s the bracelet. Neither of our contestants has a micro-adjustment option on the clasp, but this flat Jubilee is like wearing metal fabric. It’s so smooth and supple, whereas the Grand Seiko still needs to return its bracelet to finishing school. No one makes a bracelet like Rolex, though, so competing here is a tall order. Additionally, while Grand Seiko is renowned for its famed Zaratsu polishing, Rolex isn’t slouching when it comes to the work done on this case. Clean, well-defined lines, a beautiful white gold fluted bezel, and a lovely transition from case to bracelet are highlights of this watch.
An innovative movement takes on another one
The Rolex 7135 is the new chronometer-certified automatic caliber within the Land-Dweller. With a silicon hairspring, Dynapulse escapement, and ceramic balance staff, the 39-jewel movement has 66 hours of power reserve. For certain, it cannot compete on the accuracy front with the partially electric movement from Grand Seiko, but it’s a major step forward from Rolex. While not quite a natural escapement, the movement promises less friction and an impressive 36,000vph frequency. I’m a fan of both movements within our competitors, but if forced to choose, I’m always on the side of a purely mechanical caliber.
Time to pick
At €14,550, the Rolex Land-Dweller is priced within shouting distance of the SLGB005 from Grand Seiko. Money really isn’t a factor here, so it’s down to choosing the type of movement and the watch that’s most appealing. There’s no wrong choice, but you must select an option. As always, let us know why you chose the way you did.
