Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K — Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More
The time has come to wrap up our Best Watches Under €10K series, and I have the privilege of closing out this latest run. Doubling the budget from €5K unlocks a wealth of possibilities, and today, I’ll be looking to exploit those, even if it does call for a bit of finessing. Still, while I settled for three watches with our previous price points, I’ve managed to assemble five picks this time. And looking back at them now, it’s a slightly dissonant group of brilliant watches that come together to form a collection I’d be happy to own.
Now, €10K is a respectable sum to most of us. It’s certainly more than I’ve ever spent on a single watch. So it’s worth noting that these picks are my aspirational favorites. To me, they are “the best” at this price point, not necessarily because of specs, construction, or materials (although those things indeed play a role) but more so because they are watches that I connect with on an aesthetic and functional level. So remember that this is an entirely subjective draft and opinions may/will vary. Ultimately, as we have advised time and time again, you should always buy what you like, not what others tell you that you should like. Now, without further ado, let’s take a look at my first pick.
The best watches under €10K: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Ceramic ref. 210.92.44.20.01.001
I’m starting with a watch that is essentially just a classic with a twist (or two). At a glance, you’ll recognize the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M model. But after a few seconds, you’ll notice some details that set it aside, some more obvious and others quite subtle. You’ll likely notice the black ceramic case and contrasting titanium bezel edge, crown, and HEV. Spend a few more seconds staring at it, and you’ll spot the matte dial and lack of a date window. Finally, and this would only be obvious with the steel version nearby, you may spot that the case is just slightly bigger at 43.5mm wide. Having had it on my (17.5cm) wrist, I can confirm this is not noticeable as the black case makes the watch look smaller.
I’m not usually a fan of ceramic watches. I don’t like the idea of it being a material that shatters instead of deforming. But this Seamaster has always looked too good not to be a persistent guilty pleasure. Plus, I already own what I consider the best steel Seamaster reference out there (the 2254.50.00), so it could be nice to have a more exotic alternative. I also really enjoy the stealthy monochromatic looks and dateless symmetry. Other than that, it’s the winning Seamaster formula that we all know and love. At €9,900 on the rubber strap, it comes in just under the €10K limit and makes the most of the permitted budget. Check out Jorg’s hands-on review for more info on this ceramic Seamaster.
Zenith Chronomaster EP Original ref. 03.3200.3600/21.C903
Every good collection needs a great chronograph. And as much as it could have made sense to go with the classic Speedmaster, I’ve opted for something a little different. It’s the Zenith Chronomaster EP Original. This 38mm chronograph features the brand’s signature high-frequency El Primero chronograph movement and is, to me, a jewel in Zenith’s collection. It’s quirky yet cool and retro yet timeless. Its busy dial is certainly not for the faint of heart, but I love the harmony that exists within this chaotic collection of purposeful scales and markings. And whereas I’m not normally one to enjoy fauxtina, the slight hint of color that it provides here breaks the monotony in just the right way.
Now, you may notice that I’m only showing you the version on the leather strap, and that’s no coincidence. You see, when I spoke about “finessing” earlier, this is exactly what I was referring to. The Zenith Chronomaster EP Original will set you back €10,400 on the lovely flat-link steel bracelet. Would that be my go-to? Absolutely. But for the sake of staying within budget, I’m opting for the leather strap, which brings the price down to €9,900. Honestly, I will go on record as saying that this watch is one of the most appealing chronographs on the market today, and as such, it is worthy of a spot in this (or any) list of the best watches under €10K.
Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni ref. PAM00914
I’m including a Panerai on this list for a couple of reasons. The first is the brand’s heritage and history in creating watches designed for military divers, as well as the unique design that the problem-solving process to create a legible, water-resistant watch informed. The second is that after owning a PAM00055 for a few months last year, I don’t feel I’m quite done with the brand. Before owning one, I thought of Panerai watches as oversized and belonging on the wrist of over-compensating or juiced-up knuckleheads (likely due to Schwarzenegger and Stallone’s love of the brand). And though that may be the intro to a more recent chapter in the brand’s history, it’s unfair to boil it down to just that. As soon as you read into it, it’s easy to understand and become fascinated by the brand and what it once stood for.
Putting one on my wrist was an eye-opening experience and one that ended prematurely. But if I were to return to the brand, The Luminor 8 Giorni (PAM00914) would be a great way to do so. It has all the signature features that make a Panerai such a distinct watch, from the large 44mm case and crown-lock mechanism to the ultra-legible, lume-filled sandwich dial. Just like the Zenith, it’s a vintage-inspired piece with a hint of faux patina, but it somehow just works. The warm tone of the lume stands out beautifully from the grainy black dial, which gives it a special kind of warmth. Now, I’d be just as happy with a Base Logo, but given this list’s budget, it makes sense to go for the hand-wound eight-day model. For €7,200, you get a piece of military dive-watch history for your wrist and a perfect PAM.
Cartier Tank Américaine Large ref. WSTA0083
We’ll take a break from the sportier side of my desires to take a look at my dress watch of choice for this list of the best watches under €10K. Now, 99% of the time, you’ll spot me wearing a stainless steel or titanium sports watch. But when the mood strikes, I’ll occasionally grab something smaller and dressier from my watch box. Typically, it’ll be my quartz Cartier Tank Solo. But as much as I enjoy the Solo, I remain Tank-curious, and lately, the eye has begun to wander towards the Tank Américaine. For this, I entirely blame fellow watch journalist Kristian Haagen. After seeing him wearing his white gold ref. 1741 on a NATO strap, I was sold. If I were ever to make room in my “garage” for a second tank, it would have to be an Américaine.
As you can tell, I’ve decided to keep my picks within the realm of watches available new at retail today. And the stainless steel WSTA0083 is indeed available from Cartier for €6,800. However, I come to you with what I consider to be wise words of advice: go with a pre-owned 1741. These are widely available on Chrono24 for roughly the same price as the current 24.4 × 44.4mm stainless steel model (or at a slight premium). However, considering that you get the subtle flex of a white gold case, slightly larger 26 × 45mm dimensions, and a guilloché dial, it makes sense. You could argue that the new two-handed dateless version is slightly more subtle, but for roughly the same price, it’s good to know you can go either way and do no wrong.
Breitling Superocean Automatic 46 Super Diver ref. E10379D31L1 or E10379351B1E1
I must admit, I thought about leaving this final pick out of my list. It doubles up on dive watches alongside the Seamaster and is a bit redundant size-wise with the PAM00914 already on here. But the fact that it’s titanium and available on a bracelet convinced me to give it a pass. Also, having five picks at just below five figures felt right. Now, you may still be thinking I’ve lost my mind for including a 46mm dive watch on my list. If I hadn’t seen and tried this watch on in person, I’d be right there with you. However, I can say that although it is undoubtedly a large watch on the wrist, it doesn’t feel over-encumbering or unwearable. Would I prefer it was the 44mm or even 42mm version? You bet! But given the price point, I’m sticking with this titanium behemoth.
I was never too convinced by this latest vintage-inspired version of the Superocean. But when Breitling introduced these camo-dial models earlier this year, I found them quite charming indeed. They strike a nice balance between modern and retro, with a playful hint. The 46mm Super Diver is also the brand’s most serious dive watch today. It’s rated water resistant to 1,000 meters and equipped with a helium escape valve and heaps of lume. If you can stomach the size and the rather basic movement, you’ll pay €6,800 for this rough-and-tumble diver with a green or black dial on the matching titanium bracelet.
Final thoughts
After spending the last few hours writing this and daydreaming about some of the best watches under €10K (including those I considered but that did not make the cut), I’ve realized just how many amazing options are available at this price point. However, that should come as no surprise considering that this is a serious sum of money for many of us to spend on nearly anything, let alone a watch. That said, it’s good to look at the €5K–10K price point because, with a bit of saving and consolidation, it can be an aspiration within reach. Considering that a Rolex Submariner and Omega Speedmaster are also to be found within this price bracket, it’s clear that with 10 bands in your pocket, you’re spoiled for choice among some of the most venerated watches out there.
What do you think of my picks? And what would yours be at the sub-€10,000 price point? Let me know in the comments section below!