Keeping It Simple: Why The Archetypal Rolex 1601 Datejust Is King

When I shared my “Five Facts You Probably Did Not Know About The Rolex Datejust” article a few weeks back, I promised we would do more to celebrate 80 years of the Datejust. Well, here we are! I get to kick off a series of articles in which each Fratello writer shares his favorite Rolex Datejust of all time.

Mine may not come as much of a surprise to my regular readers, but I will try to make a good case for it once again. Let’s dive into why the steel reference 1601 is my favorite Rolex Datejust of all time!

My Rolex Datejust story

In case you are wondering why I am taking the lead on these 2025 Datejust celebrations, it is because the DJ holds a special place in my heart. This starts with my love of simple do-it-all-style watches. Because of this, I naturally gravitate towards the Explorers, Oyster Perpetuals, and the Datejusts within the Rolex collection.

But it goes a little deeper. Back when I was a vintage dealer at Amsterdam Watch Company, I decided to specialize in the vintage Rolex Datejust. It was the most popular model in the store by some margin, so I felt it would be good to learn as much as I could. The fact that I loved the watch made it an effortless project.

This eventually led me to write my book, The Vintage Rolex Datejust Buyer’s & Collector’s Guide. That book opened up a lot of doors for me professionally, including RJ asking me to join Fratello. It was a bucket-list project for me and one that I look back on with great fondness. Naturally, the Datejust itself is a big part of that fondness. I am not trying to plug anything here; I have since sold out all the books, and it will not be coming back (you can still get a copy at Amsterdam Watch Company, though). But I guess you can see why the Datejust means a little more than any other watch to me.

My favorite Rolex Datejust of all time

Because I wrote the book, people often assume I have a massive collection of Datejusts. The opposite is true. Although hundreds have passed through my hands, I only ever added one to my collection. It is my favorite Rolex Datejust of all time, and because of that, I put it on the cover of my book. My Datejust of choice is the steel reference 1601.

I am a massive fan of base-model watches. As much as I can appreciate complications and métiers d’art, I often feel a watch design sings in its most basic form. In this vein, I think the archetypal Rolex Datejust is reference 1601 in steel with the white gold fluted bezel.

To me, this is what I think of when I envision a Rolex Datejust. The fluted bezel, the Cyclops on the crystal, the Jubilee bracelet, and the pie-pan dial all define a watch that has had such a big impact on watch design since its inception.

My favorite Rolex Datejust of all time set the template

If you know a thing or two about the Rolex Datejust’s history, you might identify reference 1601 as the one that set the template. The Datejust changed quite a lot in the 1940s and 1950s. It started without the Cyclops, with a reeded bezel, in precious metals only, and with several different (and rather classical) styles of handsets. Even the name “Datejust” wasn’t printed on the dial for much of the first decade of the model.

Then, around 1959, Rolex introduced the 16xx generation. Although you may find early ones with alpha hands, it wasn’t long until Rolex added the baton handset. And when it did, the template was set for all future Rolex watches to date.

To me, a period of radical and quick changes ended with reference 1601. After that, the watch evolved much more slowly. In fact, while earlier 4xxx, 5xxx, and 6xxx references look distinctly old-world, the 1601 looks almost the same as today’s Datejust. You could even argue that things went downhill after that. The five-digit references that followed, for instance, came with simplified, flat dials. I strongly prefer the Datejust ref. 1601’s pie-pan dial and the visual depth it creates.

A joy to own and wear

Another great advantage of my favorite Rolex Datejust is that it is easy to own, even in 2025. While earlier models tend to be quite delicate and hard to get serviced due to a lack of available parts, the Datejust 1601 is a breeze to keep running. These vintage watches are rugged, dependable, and very easy to service.

The wearing experience is equally wonderful. While a vintage 36mm watch may scare off some, a silver-dial version is about as versatile as watches come. Within the GADA (go anywhere, do anything) world, it leans towards formal/dressy. This means it works with absolutely any outfit, from three-piece suits to swim trunks and flip-flops.

A good 1601 offers tons of vintage charm, from the thick box-style acrylic crystal to the jangly Jubilee bracelet. Speaking of bracelets, keen observers might notice a mismatch on mine. The positioning of the Rolex coronet on the clasp indicates that this bracelet comes from the US. The no-lume dial, meanwhile, suggests the watch was sold in Japan. Therefore, while the bracelet is true to the period, it was most likely paired with the watch in later years.

Closing thoughts on my favorite Rolex Datejust of all time

There you have it — my favorite Rolex Datejust of all time. I am sure mine did not come as much of a surprise to regular Fratello readers. And while I am sure many will agree on the “simpler is better” mantra, I am sure many others feel this is an uninspired and boring choice. Well, luckily, I have a bunch of colleagues coming up with their “Favorite Rolex Datejust Of All Time” articles soon! I am sure there will be some more daring choices among them.

For me, the Datejust ref. 1601 is simply one of the best watches ever made. Yes, that is a bold statement, but it is how I feel. This watch has inspired numerous other designs since its inception and has become one of the most iconic watches of all time. My reference 1601 is one of the few watches I consider unsellable.

What is your favorite Rolex Datejust of all time? Let us know in the comments section below!