Video: Hands-On With The New Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional “Reverse Panda”
On this second (Speedy) Tuesday of the year, Omega introduces two new additions to the Moonwatch collection. After introducing a white-dial Speedmaster Professional in 2024, it’s now time for a reverse-panda configuration. These watches feature a glossy black dial with white recessed sub-dials and are available in 18K yellow gold and in steel.
Click the play button in the image above to watch our video review, or continue reading to discover all the details of these exciting new Moonwatch variants.
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional 310.30.42.50.01.004 (steel) and 310.60.42.50.01.002 (gold)
In 2019, Omega introduced its new Speedmaster Professional case, based on the fourth generation of Speedmasters (ref. 105.012), with limited-edition Apollo 11 models in full 18K Moonshine Gold, steel with a Moonshine Gold bezel, and platinum. While the last housed the 321 movement, Omega introduced its caliber 3861 in the other two Apollo 11 LEs. Then, in 2021, the standard steel Speedmaster Professional underwent a comprehensive upgrade, including a fourth-generation-style case, caliber 3861, a new bracelet, and more.
The 2019 Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary, the first watch to have the caliber 3861
The current collection of Master Chronometer Moonwatch models
A while later, Omega launched the new 42mm Master Chronometer-certified Moonwatch in Moonshine (yellow), Sedna (red), and Canopus (white) Gold. Additionally, the brand introduced two more bicolor Moonwatch models featuring steel combined with Sedna or Moonshine Gold. And before I forget, Omega (finally) introduced the classic Moonwatch with a white dial. Are you still with me?
To make things a bit easier, here’s a picture of the Moonwatch collection before today’s release. The first two seem the same, but one is the classic Speedmaster Professional with a Hesalite crystal, and the other is the version with a sapphire crystal on the front and back. The latter is also easy to identify by the applied logo and polished intermediate links in the bracelet.
Omega Speedmaster FOiS ref. 310.30.40.50.06.001
The other Speedmasters
Today, Omega introduces two more models to “complete” the standard collection. I write “standard,” as there are also many Speedmaster variations out there, including the Calibre 321, First Omega in Space, Silver Snoopy Award, Broad Arrow in Canopus Gold, etc. Omega categorizes these as the “Heritage” collection. And then, of course, there are the X-33 models, Dark Side of the Moon collection, and the Speedmaster 38 line. I know that it’s easy to get lost, so forget about those for now, and let’s stick with the Moonwatch collection (although there are some gems in the other categories as well).
Two new additions to the Moonwatch collection
In addition to the nine models pictured above (excluding all strap variations), two reverse-panda models will join the Moonwatch lineup. One is in stainless steel, while the other is in Omega’s yellow gold alloy, Moonshine Gold. These are essentially identical to the existing Moonwatch models in the Omega collection, but they feature new dials consisting of two layers. The recessed sub-dials are now slightly deeper in the dial. Also, the stainless steel model has the same thickness as the Hesalite version of the standard Moonwatch. Additionally, both references feature a ceramic bezel insert instead of an aluminum one.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional 310.30.42.50.01.004
The Speedmaster “Reverse Panda”
A reverse-panda dial is not new to the Speedmaster. The look was available in the “Reduced” models, but it also made its way into the Professional series via our Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday limited edition from 2017. That watch was a tribute to the Speedmaster Professional used during the Space Shuttle missions in the 1980s, recognizable by its radial dial.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional 310.60.42.50.01.002
A two-layered dial construction
This new Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional “Reverse Panda” is different, as it has a glossy dial. This consists of two plates, with the top one in polished black with a varnished and lacquered finish to create a sheen. It also includes rhodium-plated sub-dial frames.
The base layer for the sub-dials is white, also with a varnished and lacquered finish. The minute track is transferred in white on the main dial, while the sub-dials feature markings transferred in black. There over twenty layers of lacquer on the dials.
That’s gold, Jerry! Gold!
As you can see, the Omega Speedmaster “Reverse Panda” in Moonshine Gold also features gold hour markers with a diamond-polished finish. The gold bezel of this watch contains a ceramic insert with a tachymeter scale, including the classic Dot Over Ninety (DON), filled with white enamel. Additionally, the hands are solid Moonshine Gold, except for the chronograph seconds hand, which has a Moonshine Gold PVD coating due to weight considerations.
Of the 215 grams that this watch weighs, 185 grams are solid gold. Indeed, it is a hefty piece of precious metal on the wrist.
The stainless steel version weighs 144 grams on the “Nixon”-style bracelet. Despite the weight and price differences, the design remains the same, featuring 20mm end links and tapering to 15mm links at the clasp. Inside that clasp is a sliding mechanism that allows for an additional 2.3mm adjustment in two steps.
Caliber 3861
Caliber 3861
Both Speedmaster references have the same caliber 3861 ticking inside. This movement, which enables the watch to be certified as a Master Chronometer, has a Co-Axial escapement and a silicon balance spring. Thanks in part to the latter, it’s also resistant to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss. Omega’s caliber 3861 ticks at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a 50-hour power reserve.
The decoration and finishing are similar to those of the other 3861 movements found in the Speedmaster Professional line. That means this rhodium-plated caliber has arabesque Geneva waves, circular graining, gold-plated engravings, and a satin finish on the chronograph components, as well as polished, beveled edges. Both references feature a see-through case back, allowing you to visually appreciate the chronograph caliber.
The new Moonwatch “Reverse Panda” on the wrist
Although my eyes were first drawn to the Moonshine Gold version, which quickly found its way to my wrist, the stainless steel version is, of course, the one that will see the most buyers. The glossy black main dial, recessed white lacquered sub-dials, and black printed numerals create a lot of depth.
You can’t say it’s simply a mix of the regular Moonwatch model and the white-dial Moonwatch (“Craig White”) because of the high-gloss black dial. The rhodium-plated hands have a diamond-polished finish, providing sufficient contrast to read the time easily. Occasionally, we heard complaints about the Speedy Tuesday “Tribute to Alaska III,” at least at the time of introduction, that the brushed hands were not very legible.
A luxury touch for a classic
The box form sapphire crystal, applied hour indexes and Omega logo, and rhodium-plated hands (on the steel reference) make this a “modern” Moonwatch variation. While purists might prefer printed hour markers, a matte or grainy black dial, an aluminum bezel insert, and white baton hands, this watch adds a touch of luxury to the classic 42mm Speedmaster Professional.
The white sub-dials add depth
Although I have my share of standard Hesalite Speedmasters, I enjoyed wearing this new “Reverse Panda” version. It simply looks good on the wrist, and the depth that the white sub-dials bring is a very welcome touch.
Which Moonwatch to buy?
The most frequently asked question I get is which Moonwatch someone should buy. That’s not an easy one to answer if you don’t know the person who’s asking. And with this “Reverse Panda” edition, the answer will not be getting any shorter (or easier). It’s a terrific addition to any existing Speedmaster collection, but it could also work perfectly as one’s only watch.
As for which one I prefer, that’s not easy to answer either. My colleagues here often mock my preference for gold watches, but I wouldn’t mind owning this one. That said, the stainless steel Speedmaster “Reverse Panda” is an incredibly cool-looking chronograph.
The micro-adjustment mechanism inside the clasp
The Moonshine Gold version is perhaps the cream of the crop. It is very impressive on the wrist, but it’s certainly not for everyone. The difference in weight between the gold and the steel versions alone might be a decisive factor for some.
The hands and dial feature Super-LumiNova
Pricing
The retail price of the new steel Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional ref. 310.30.42.50.01.004 is €10,200 (inc. 21% VAT) / CHF 8,100 (ex. VAT) / US$10,400 (ex. sales tax). The gold version, ref. 310.60.42.50.01.002, has a retail price of €48,600 (inc. 21% VAT) / CHF 38,400 (ex. VAT) / US$49,300 (ex. sales tax).
What’s your impression of the new Speedmaster “Reverse Panda,” and which one do you like better? Let us know in the comments!
