Introducing: Two Very Different “Watch Beasts” From Jaquet Droz And Franck Muller

Unfortunately, there’s no In-N-Out Burger in The Hague. Since the American regional chain of fast food restaurants has locations primarily in California and some parts of the Southwest, having a burger at an In-N-Out is a very geographically dictated fast-food privilege. That’s a real shame because I once had the pleasure of having the much-talked-about “Animal Style” burger at In-N-Out in LA. “Animal Style” refers to a mustard-cooked patty, and the burger includes grilled onions, pickles, and an extra spread of Thousand Island dressing. Now, to the “Animal Style” watches you see here. We’re introducing two very different “watch beasts” from Jaquet Droz and Franck Muller. One is the watch equivalent of Haute Cuisine, while the other is more like an off-menu burger you can only get if you know the password.

We should start with the unique piece featuring a dragon. Jaquet Droz is a brand that operates mainly in the shadows nowadays. But occasionally, something very special leaves the atelier on the outskirts of La Chaux-de-Fonds. The brand focuses on bespoke, one-of-a-kind, complicated stuff, and the Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe” is no exception. The watch is made for an unknown collector — a person who is undoubtedly a big Tolkien fan and probably also had Jaquet Droz make him an automaton with nine mechanical animations. That unique watch featured a dragon on the dial designed by Canadian illustrator John Howe, one of the two chief designers of The Lord of the Rings trilogy. Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe” doesn’t have any moving parts on the dial, but the illustration of the dragon is again from the hand of the man mentioned in the name of the watch.

Two very different “ Watch Beasts” — Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe”

Jaquet Droz’s Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe” is the result of three main factors — client, artist, and watchmaker. The client approaches the watchmaker/brand with a special wish that includes work from a desired artist, and the brand makes it happen. This is quite a position to be in as a watch collector. As money is not a limiting factor, dreams can come true. And if you’re a big Tolkien fan, owning a themed Haute Horlogerie one-of-a-kind piece with a piece of original artwork on the dial is within grasp.

The Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe,” in its 43mm white gold case, is the ultimate movie “merch” featuring John Howe’s artwork. The Canadian illustrator defined Tolkien’s visual language first in print and later as artistic director for The Lord of the Rings film trilogy. The dial is a faithful miniature adaptation of one of Howe’s large-scale paintings, meticulously transposed to wristwatch dimensions.

Is it Smaug?

While the artistry is a key visual element, the watch is equally compelling from a horological standpoint. Powering it is the 25JD, a movement featuring a flying tourbillon, automatic winding, and a robust seven-day power reserve. Developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker and AHCI co-founder Vincent Calabrese, the 25JD is a technically sophisticated caliber with a Blancpain heritage. Its architecture and finishing complement a watch that marries mechanical ingenuity with fantastic artistic expression.

The flying tourbillon at 12 has an inverted construction, with the balance off-centered relative to the rotation axis. You need to be somewhat of a movement expert to tell, but this construction can be mistaken for a carousel regulator. It isn’t; this is a veritable tourbillon. The finishing is to Haute Horlogerie standards, but that goes without saying. As the icing on the cake, on the backside of the watch is a pink gold oscillating weight with a black onyx insert bearing John Howe’s logo in The Lord of the Rings typography.

Still, no matter the original flying tourbillon or the signed rotor, the dragon is the main character. You might think the dragon on the dial is Smaug, the fire-drake of the Third Age. The menacing star from The Hobbit trilogy was the last great dragon of Middle-earth, who, for 171 years, hoarded the Lonely Mountain’s treasures to himself. But Smaug isn’t on the dial. Smaug is reddish gold, and the coiled dragon on the dial is blue. The meaning of the creature cradling a glowing globe is something only the owner knows. Nevertheless, the handmade artwork looks fantastic. Not many watches have left Jaquet’s Droz’s “kitchen” lately, but the brand did “cook up” one hell of a dragon special this time. Check, please!

Two very different “Watch Beasts” — Franck Muller #Fr2nck Muller Vanguard Beach

The Franck Muller #Fr2nck Muller Vanguard Beach has an uncommon style but is not one of a kind. This limited-edition watch, which comes in Heatwave Red, Surf Blue, and Tropical Green, is an acquired taste and restricted to the Asia-Pacific region. But thanks to the internet, even geographically limited watches can be seen and acquired globally (if only it worked that way with hamburgers too…). This is not the first time Franck Muller has collaborated with Japanese streetwear brand #FR2, also known as Fxxking Rabbits. A black-and-white watch debuted two years ago, showing two very busy rabbits on the dial. The same two rabbits are at it again, but this time, they’re on a surfboard, on the beach, and under a palm tree.

The #Fr2nck Muller Vanguard Beach has a case made of glass fiber composite with a 41mm diameter, 49.95mm length, and 12.2mm thickness. The watch is available in three marbled colors, each with a dial featuring a pair of long-eared lagomorphs living their best lives in relief. This watch doesn’t take itself too seriously, and neither should you when you wear it. The colors and size will not let you get away with flying under the radar. But that’s not what you want when strapping this to your wrist. You want to have people notice it and think your watch game is on point. And once they see the rabbits upon closer inspection, it should inspire a provocative conversation between kindred spirits.

What goes on behind the rabbits

Although this pop-culture watch is lighthearted, paying S$18,800 / US$14,700 is only fast-food fun when you can easily afford it. You don’t get this creation for its horological magnificence. Inside the colorful case, for instance, beats the Franck Muller caliber 2536-SCDT2H. It’s an in-house automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve that powers the watch’s three hands and date function. This 4Hz movement will not leave the discerning movement fan in awe. Not that it has to, though, because it’s the rabbits’ job to do the seducing. Three hundred pieces of each color are available. They each have a printed, leather-lined white nylon strap with a hook-and-loop closure. If you want to acquire one, check out Franck Muller’s Asia Pacific website.

So, hypothetically, if you had a choice, would you go for the dragon “cooked” in the most elaborate and delicate style, the Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe,” or would you use the secret password (“Fratello”) and go for something that satisfies your craving for something fast and funky, the Franck Muller #Fr2nck Muller Vanguard Beach? Please let me know which “Animal Style” you prefer in the comments.