Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89

Seiko unveiled the new SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89 only a few weeks ago. The new quartet is part of the Seiko 5 Sports lineup, more specifically, the so-called “SKX series.” But with that classification comes some mental gymnastics. When Seiko introduced the 5 Sports line in 2019, the brand was adamant that the newly introduced watches were not a follow-up to the popular SKX007, SKX009, and so on, despite their visual similarities. A quick look at the specs also confirmed that. But six years on, the brand has taken the legacy of the SKX as inspiration to create a line of watches that fans of the classic divers might find confusing. I took the new watches for a spin to get some perspective.

Let me start by correcting myself. In the introduction article that I wrote for these watches, I suggested that the 1990s Seiko 7002 diver was the inspiration for the four new models. However, our regular reader Fredrik77 pointed out that the dials were modeled after the Seiko SKX399 “Filipino.” It is a very rare reference within the SKX family. The SKX399 (black) and SKX401 (blue/red) were released in a small number of Southeast Asian countries, including the Philippines, hence the nickname. It would make sense for Seiko to have chosen these references as they connect directly to the current SKX series within the Seiko 5 Sports collection. The dials of the SKX399 and the 7002 have the same general style but include small differences in the 12 o’clock marker and day/date display versus only a date display on the 7002.

The story of the Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89

With that out of the way (and thanks to Fredrik for pointing it out), it is even easier to put these watches into context. Or is it? The comments section of the introduction article made it clear that even six years after the introduction, there are still many strong opinions on the Seiko 5 Sports collection. In particular, the current-day SKX series is always subject to much debate, often focusing on two points — specs and value for money.

First, these SKX-inspired models are not proper dive watches like their predecessors were. Seiko made this clear from the start, yet the point keeps coming up. I understand it all too well. If you draw inspiration from one of your most famous dive watches that was discontinued right around the time the Seiko 5 Sports collection was introduced, you leave the door open for SKX fans to keep dwelling on that.

With an SKX-style case that’s only water resistant to 100 meters and a push-pull crown, it will never be the same as the popular watches it takes after. As Mike explained six years ago, keeping the 200m depth rating and screw-down crown would have made many SKX fans happier.

A wider perspective

But I am willing to see this in the greater context of the Seiko catalog. As a brand, Seiko has the Prospex collection for its dive watches, whereas the Seiko 5 Sports collection is a series of casual and affordable watches. Within it, there is the SKX series, the Field Series, and the recently added SNXS series. These three cover a wide palette of available design options that offer something for people looking for an affordable Seiko watch.

Seiko often uses the SKX canvas to bring back famous Seiko 5 Sports classics from the past. Additionally, we have seen new variations like the brilliant SKX-based GMTs. In addition, the SKX series has seen a string of funky collaborations with famous sports stars, manga and anime franchises, and clothing brands.

We have written about quite a few of them, and I greatly enjoy some watches in the SKX series. The two-tone US-exclusive SSK021 GMT is still a beauty. Additionally, I would still love to add one of the Seiko 5 Sports × Rowing Blazers models to my collection.

Putting the SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89 in Seiko 5 Sports context

The broader context now determines how I look at the SKX series within the Seiko 5 Sports collection. I certainly do not see it as a series of dive or wannabe dive watches. But I understand the SKX fans’ issue with the models that specifically mimic one of their favorite affordable Seiko divers.

With every Seiko 5 Sports release inspired by another SKX model from the past, you will see the same criticism. Not only is it a great testament to the passionate feelings SKX fans have for the legendary series, but it will also always relate to a debatable choice made by Seiko, no matter the greater context of the Seiko 5 Sports collection.

I feel less strongly about the issue because I have never been a huge SKX fan. I’ve always found that Seiko had much better-designed options in its collection. Granted, these might have been slightly more expensive, but I am more than willing to pay a little extra for looks. After all, you can’t get peace of mind from a price tag alone. Rather, it stems from a watch you’ll love wearing daily, with an appropriate price to match.

Stiffer competition at a low price point

This brings me to the second point of criticism — the price and relative value for money. It can be a lengthy discussion about Seiko and the industry. I won’t get into that because it’s all about what you are willing to spend on a watch. Sure, the SKX was more affordable and offered better specs. But we have moved on from that, and steeper prices are a fact of life. It’s not something I necessarily agree with, but what can you do about it?

You can’t do anything about the price tag per se, but the options at a lower price point have become much more extensive. The number of microbrands offering affordable dive watches with great specs has increased tremendously. On top of that, Citizen has been doing a great job of releasing very capable and affordable dive watches. So there are great options if you are looking for a competent, affordable diver for a reasonable price.

Wearing the Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89

But if you are looking for fun and reasonably capable Seiko 5 Sports watches inspired by rare SKX classics, this is still a great series. I have come to appreciate the Seiko 5 Sports collection as a fun line of watches that offers a great variety. As I mentioned, it has led to a love for a handful of models I would be happy to add to my collection. While these four new models are not necessarily on that list, they are releases that still have that gateway potential that the original SKX series also had. These watches are great, affordable options for people just getting into watches.

On top of that, their 42.5 × 46 × 13.9mm cases wear like a charm. If you have ever tried any SKX-inspired Seiko 5 Sports models, you’ll know that they are not the slimmest watches but are still very charming. That charm is enhanced by the story behind them. I believe they could be the perfect way for new watch enthusiasts to discover the rich history of Seiko divers. It might also lead them to discover the original watches that these SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89 take after. I see that as a great aspect of the Seiko 5 Sports models that pay homage to the brand’s classics.

Final thoughts on the new Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89

Where does that leave the die-hard SKX fans? The sober conclusion is that these watches are probably not for you. Seiko has made no secret of that from the beginning. As I said, though, I agree with SKX fans that using the design canvas of the legendary series of dive watches without a similar set of specs raises an eyebrow every time. The best alternative for those people is to enjoy the classic Seiko SKX models. Though discontinued, they are generally easy to find, and the prices are still more than reasonable.

Overall, I understand and appreciate Seiko’s catalog as it is. The brand offers a tremendous variety of watches at different price points. I could easily list 10–15 models from Seiko’s various collections that I would enjoy wearing daily. But the reality is that I would be looking at the Prospex collection for a Seiko dive watch, not the Seiko 5 Sports line. While the looks of the SKX series might be tempting, I know that’s not where to look for a dive watch, and Seiko has also made that very clear.

Yes, seeing homages to well-respected Seiko dive classics outside the Prospex collection will always feel somewhat awkward. Then again, can you blame Seiko for using such an instantly recognizable canvas for this series? The commercial success of the Seiko 5 Sports collection speaks for itself, and I don’t see the popularity ending anytime soon.

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