Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department
As many of you know, the late ’60s and the first half of the ’70s were an era of design experimentation in the watch industry. While Girard-Perregaux might not be the first name on people’s tongues when it comes to funky watches from this period, don’t think the brand didn’t have any. With the Casquette and the Deep Diver series, Girard-Perregaux released several outstanding watches that perfectly represent the era’s style. Today, GP brings back the Deep Diver ref. 9108, which debuted in 1969. This 350-piece limited edition is a collaborative effort with Bamford Watch Department and is the latest addition to Girard-Perregaux’s Legacy Editions.
Honestly, when I first laid my eyes on the new Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver, I hadn’t expected to see a funky, colorful watch. The Deep Diver name should have prepared me somewhat, but that could go many different ways in terms of design. This name first appeared in the brand’s collection in 1957 with the reference 7254. Despite being pressure resistant to 100 fathoms, the watch looked very much like what we’d consider a dress watch today. In the years after, however, the Deep Diver series showed a great versatility in line with the design developments that characterized dive watches’ evolution.
The story of the Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition
In 1969, Girard-Perregaux released the Deep Diver ref. 9108, the general design of which was the blueprint for this new Deep Diver Legacy Edition. The watch introduced an EPSA cushion-shaped Super Compressor case with two crowns and a funky, era-appropriate dial design. The automatic GP 461 caliber inside the watch featured the brand’s innovative Gyromatic system. This system used a unidirectional winding mechanism relying on two “Gyrotron” wheels with rubies rather than ball bearings, as most self-winding calibers had. The biggest advantage of the Gyromatic system was the prevention of wear and friction.
For the new Legacy Edition, the dial design pays tribute to the bold aesthetic of the 1971 model, which came with a red and black dial. But rather than simply recreating that colorway, Girard-Perregaux collaborated with Bamford Watch Department to devise a nice twist on it. This watch’s dial combines orange, white, and blue for a bright new version of the classic. But the Bamford treatment of the dial is only one of the many details of the watch.
The details of the Deep Diver Legacy Edition
Let’s go over the details to get a better idea. The new Deep Diver features a 38mm Grade 5 titanium cushion-shaped case with a 40.3mm length, a 13.91mm thickness, and a 200m depth rating. On the right side of the case, you will find two crowns, just like the old model. The upper crown controls the inner bezel, while the lower one controls the movement. As you can see in the images, the finishing looks rather spectacular. The top of the case features radial brushing that accentuates the 14-sided bezel. This inspired the shape of the Laureato, which debuted in 1975.
The sides of the case feature vertical brushing, and the lugs have a polished finish for some extra visual drama. And look at the crowns, which have a crosshatch pattern, with the lower of the two also featuring the “GP” logo. Lastly, the chamfer that connects the case back with the flanks has a polished finish to spice the profile view up tremendously. All in all, it’s an intricate and stellar-looking combination of finishes.
A dial designed in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department
As mentioned, within the case lies a colorful dial combining orange, white, and blue. The large, round central portion features the retro Girard-Perregaux logo in blue on the upper half, and you will find the Bamford logo in a lighter shade of orange on the lower half. As far as co-branding goes, this is tastefully done. The central orange circle connects to the date frame, which sits at 3 o’clock within the white ring holding the hour and minute markers. The funky orange hour indexes and the hands feature orange Super-LumiNova that, interestingly, lights up bright blue in the dark.
The orange hour markers are placed between blue shapes that continue on the inner bezel with the 60-minute dive scale. I love the retro-style numerals that add greatly to the funkiness of the overall aesthetic. As most of you will know, unscrewing the crown at 2 o’clock will let you rotate the inner bezel. Upon doing so, the dial’s appearance will also change. Turning the bezel breaks the shapes until you align them again with the markers on the dial. It’s a fun exercise that proves why the late ’60s and early ’70s were a wild time in design.
The watch comes fitted with a blue rubber strap that completes the look nicely. This strap features quick-release spring bars, making it easy to swap it out without needing a tool. In addition to the blue strap, Girard-Perregaux includes an orange rubber strap to switch things up, and both straps have a branded titanium buckle.
The Girard-Perregaux caliber GP03300
Inside the Deep Diver Legacy Edition’s cushion-shaped case beats the in-house GP03300 movement. This automatic caliber is only 3.36mm thick, operates at 28,800vph, and provides 46 hours of power reserve. For the most part, the movement hides safely behind a case back with a small blue-tinted sapphire display. This window features the Deep Diver name and a trident placed on waves to indicate its deep-sea purpose. If you look past the print, you can catch glimpses of the caliber beneath, adding some visual depth.
Final thoughts on the new Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition
As mentioned, Girard-Perregaux will produce 350 pieces of this new Deep Diver Legacy Edition, each with a price of €16,000. Considering that the Deep Diver is a favorite among Girard-Perregaux collectors, I do not doubt these watches will sell fast. Furthermore, the new colorway created in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department is a vibrant new take on the 1971 model. It makes this a desirable collector’s edition of this classic diver. I can’t wait to see whether this release is a one-time deal or if GP will eventually release more Deep Diver editions. With all the history and the design that are there, the model could make an awesome comeback. For now, this funky Deep Diver Legacy Edition is a great first step!
