Going Hands-On With The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Collection
Not too long ago, I wrote an article highlighting the Favre Leuba collection. The immediate standouts for me were the Deep Raider divers. The Deep Raider Renaissance is a great modern evolution of the classic Deep Blue from the 1960s. However, it was the Deep Raider Revival that stood out even more to me, as it brings back the classic aesthetic of the Deep Blue, executed with modern production techniques. As you will understand, I was more than happy to find out more about these two models. The big question was, of course, whether my feelings going into this review would be confirmed. It’s time to find out.
Let me shortly explain why my initial connection to the Deep Raider Revival was stronger than to the Deep Raider Renaissance. What I adore about the vintage-looking diver is its quirky details. The hyphenated version of the brand name sits at 9 o’clock, while the logo is between 10 and 11 o’clock. Additionally, the depth rating is right underneath the triple index at 3 o’clock. Speaking of which, the extra-long luminous markers at the cardinal points are another remarkable design detail that I adore. Add the sapphire bezel insert, and there are more than just a few details that I loved upfront.
The details of the Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival
Let’s start by comparing the two watches based on their specs. The Deep Raider Revival has a 39mm stainless steel case with a 13.24mm thickness and a 48mm lug-to-lug. The case does not have a traditional skin-diver silhouette but a modern version of it. It features nicely tapering polished lugs with beveled edges. This 60th-anniversary reinterpretation of the brand’s classic dive watch increases the water resistance rating to 300 meters, surpassing the original’s 200 meters from the 1960s.
The countdown bezel features a sapphire insert with a complete set of white numerals and markers, as well as a beige luminous triangular marker at the 60-minute mark. The typography and fully marked scale add to the vintage feel. Fittingly, inside the case is a dial inspired by the original Deep Blue model.
As I already mentioned, the gray sunburst dial has some quirky details that give it character. From the extra-long indexes at 3, 6, 9, and 12 to the placement of the logo and depth rating, as well as the characteristic handset, there is a certain charm to the dial that is undeniable. Favre Leuba chose a vintage-inspired lume color that I like for this retro model.
A warm vintage-inspired dial
As a result of the lume color, the dial gets a lovely warmth. Tucked away between 4 and 5 o’clock, you will find the date window. Favre Leuba chose a white date disc with black printing. In this case, I like it because it does make the date stand out more. If it had been a gray date disc with white printing, it might have gotten lost in the overall dial design, losing its instant functionality.
The case comes fitted with a vintage-inspired five-row bracelet featuring triangular links and a branded butterfly clasp. The style of the bracelet suits the design well, and it feels well constructed. The triangular design of the links ups the vintage character. These links all feature a polished finish, which emphasizes the shape and the overall presence of the bracelet. Overall, this bracelet ups the vintage style of the original watch, making it a fitting choice.
The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Renaissance
The vintage vibes also set the Deep Raider Revival apart from its modern-day counterpart. The Deep Raider Renaissance is slightly larger, although its case design is similar to that of its smaller brother. The stainless steel case has a 40mm diameter with an equal 13.24mm thickness and 48mm lug-to-lug.
The case has a similar profile, tapering lugs, and beveled edges. However, as you can see, it has brushed flanks, whereas the Revival features polished case bands. The differences continue with the dial-matching blue ceramic bezel. It adds a modern touch that also enhances practicality. Additionally, it features a standard dive scale, unlike the bezel on the Revival model.
Inside the case lies a sandwich dial. The upper part is gradient blue with a sunburst finish. The top layer features cut-out indexes over a base layer coated with Super-LumiNova, which lights up brightly in the dark. As you can see, the designers chose to move the brand name to the “regular” position at 12 o’clock. But the logo is placed at 6 o’clock to create balance. Additionally, the luminous hour markers at 12 and 6 o’clock are shorter than on the Revival’s dial. It gives a modern, crisp feel to the classic design.
The modern version of the Deep Raider is a different watch
The Deep Raider Renaissance also comes fitted with a different bracelet. Its three-row design features brushed outer links and polished center links. However, I love that it’s not your run-of-the-mill Oyster-style bracelet. It looks very different and is also super comfortable. Additionally, it comes with a butterfly clasp and screw pins, similar to those found on the Revival’s bracelet.
This all adds up to a crisp modern version of the Deep Raider that feels inherently different from its vintage-inspired counterpart. I love that Favre Leuba pushed these two designs as far apart as possible. As a result, each watch caters to a different audience. If you are familiar with the brand and its history, you will likely gravitate toward the Deep Raider Revival. If you are in the market for a modern-looking dive watch, the Deep Raider Renaissance is a good choice. Because of this, most people will have an immediate preference based on appearance.
Technical differences between the two watches
But that’s not where it ends. Indeed, the movements that power the watches are also slightly different. Both are based on the La Joux-Perret G100, but they’re executed differently. The Deep Raider Revival runs on the FLD01 caliber. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 68-hour power reserve. The caliber is hidden behind the all-steel case back, which is also why it differs from the caliber in the Deep Raider Renaissance.
Deep Raider Renaissance features Favre Leuba’s FLD02 caliber, which is visible through the sapphire display on the case back. This movement uses the same La Joux-Perret G100 base as the Deep Raider Revival. However, this one features a custom rotor and more intricate finishing, including Côtes de Genève decorations on the top plate, soleillage on the rotor, and a thermally blued column wheel and screws.
Wearing the Favre Leuba Deep Raider models
Let me start by saying that both watches feel very nicely made. The production quality immediately stands out. There is a certain heft to both models that feels reassuring, and the tolerances are a testament to the excellent engineering, machining, and attention to detail that went into creating a high-quality product. With both Deep Raiders on the desk, the first thing I had to do was size them, of course. As both bracelets feature screw pins, it was super easy to adjust them to my wrist. We have seen an increasing number of brands using screw pins, but the quality is not always the same. Additionally, some prefer using an abundance of Loctite, which makes sizing them challenging. But sizing the Favre Leuba bracelets was a walk in the park.
Once on the wrist, the watches feel sturdy and serious. Despite the slight size difference, both fit my 18.5cm wrist really well. Once I closed the hidden butterfly clasp, I was all set. As I mentioned, my eyes were initially drawn to the Deep Raider Revival because I love the romance of the modern reissue of the 1960s classic. And I had a lot of fun wearing that watch for a couple of days. It is the perfect modern reissue because, while the design nicely captures the vintage charm, it also gives the reassurance of wearing a modern watch.
Notable differences between the two Deep Raiders
Once I got the Deep Raider Revival on my wrist, I appreciated the unusual dial design a lot. It has a similar quirky charm to the Aquastar Deepstar Chronograph and Deepstar II. They also have that distinct feel and little details that make me smile every time. Additionally, wearing the watch is a joy. I found it quite hard to take the watch off my wrist, as I had become quite attached to it.
If there was one thing I wasn’t too convinced by, it was the bracelet. Its faceted design and fully polished finish not only make it a fingerprint magnet but also make it hard to clean. A cloth cannot cover all the little parts and corners, so you will always see stripes on your bracelet. Having said that, the polished parts also ensure that the watch stands out on the wrist. It lets you know that it’s there, even if you’re not looking at it. You will catch the little shiny glimmers that draw you in, and I loved that. But if you prefer a bracelet to be less of a fingerprint magnet, the Deep Raider Renaissance bracelet does a much better job. Additionally, the design feels inherently different. It fits better with the more modern presence of the watch.
Final thoughts on the Favre Leuba Deep Raider models
The 1mm size difference is hardly noticeable physically. However, there is a slight difference in presence that is not solely due to the difference in case size. It’s also due to the modern ceramic bezel insert, which slopes slightly toward the outer edges. As a result, the watch feels bigger than its vintage-inspired sibling. However, that is never an issue because the looks will ultimately decide which of the two you would buy. Additionally, the differences in wearing them are marginal, so it’s more a matter of visual perception than anything else.
Overall, the two Favre Leuba Deep Raider models are great watches. They are very well-made modern divers with a markedly different feel. The Deep Raider Revival has a bit more character as it takes direct cues from the original ’60s model. The modern Renaissance version feels crisper but also loses the quirky touch that makes the Revival model so charming.
Ultimately, it’s all about personal design preferences. Both are excellent choices and similar in price. The Favre Leuba Deep Raider costs €2,600, while the Deep Raider Renaissance costs €2,675 on the bracelet. If you prefer that watch on a rubber strap, you will have to pay €2,575. At that price, Favre Leuba is competing with the likes of Doxa, Aquastar, and Norqain. And I have to give the brand a massive compliment because these two dive watches are bang on the money. The quality of these new Deep Raider models is undeniable, and with plenty of design charm, they are two great offerings from Favre Leuba.
Which do you prefer, the Revival or the Renaissance? Let us know in the comments section!
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