Hands-On With The Refined Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai And Sumi

We have seen a massive increase in interesting small Japanese brands in recent years. Great examples are Kurono Tokyo, Hajime Asaoka, Kikuchi Nakagawa, and Minase. One of the newest microbrands is Kiwame Tokyo, which presented its inaugural Kurotsuki and Usuki models not too long ago. The watches stood out because of their beautiful dials. For its follow-up release, Kiwame Tokyo unveils the Iwao Ginkai and Sumi. The two watches are a refined take on the classic field watch and show a more modern side of the brand compared to the inaugural duo. Let’s find out more.

Back in September, Mike reported on the Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki and Usuki. In that article, he also explained a little bit about the brand’s background, so if you want to know more about Kiwame Tokyo, I suggest you read it. In short, the brand is all about delivering “honest watchmaking from Asakusa,” which is in the heart of Tokyo. On top of that, Kiwame Tokyo focuses on creating affordable Japanese watches so they are easily accessible for everyone, regardless of budget. With these new introductions, the brand continues that journey with two models that come in well under €1,000. After seeing the images, I was excited to find out more.

The details of the Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai and Sumi

Let’s start with some specs before we get into the design details. The two new watches feature a 38mm case with a 9.5mm thickness, a 46mm lug-to-lug, and a 100m water resistance rating. This elegant case features a nice mix of finishes. The standout element is the top of the flat bezel, with its vertical brushing. The side of the bezel is polished and flows nicely into the polished top of the lugs. Then, we see the brushed case bands, which help round out a dynamic visual display of finishes.

While Iwao (巌, “massive rock”) is the general model name, Kiwame Tokyo distinguishes each dial color with a different moniker. The Ginkai (銀灰, “silver ash”) features a silver dial, while the Sumi (墨, “ink”) houses a black dial. Both dials follow the same style and also feature the same details. These include a rock-surface-textured center that resembles the raw presence of natural stone. This texture is fitting, considering the meaning of the Iwao name.

Located on the outside of the textured center is a satin-finished ring that holds the applied Arabic numerals and indexes. Thanks to the polished finish, they reflect the light nicely.

The design of the Iwao models

Located at 12 o’clock, you will find the arched plate that holds the brand’s logo. It is really nicely integrated, and as you can see, it is only slightly wider than the space between the outer edges of the 11 and 1 o’clock markers. Lastly, on the rehaut, you will find the minute track and a luminous triangle at 12 o’clock.

Hovering over the dials are modest pencil-style hour and minute hands that are filled with lume. The silver-dial version features a blued seconds hand that adds a nice touch and also includes lume, allowing you to read the time in the dark. For the black-dial model, the tip of the steel seconds hand is red to contrast the dial color.

The Miyota 9039

Inside the case, you will find the Miyota 9039 caliber. This automatic movement operates at 28,800vph, has 24 jewels, and offers at least 42 hours of power reserve. The caliber has a stated accuracy of -10/+30 seconds per day. However, it is worth noting that the actual accuracy is often significantly better than officially indicated.

Finishing the look of both watches in style is a classy 20mm black leather strap paired with a nicely shaped, branded buckle. The strap features white contrasting stitches for added visual appeal. Overall, I was impressed by the quality of the leather strap. It’s nice and thick yet still very supple. It makes wearing the Kiwame Tokyo Iwao an absolute joy. It shows the great eye for detail that the brand’s founder, Masami Watanabe, has.

Wearing the Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai and Sumi models

The supple leather also makes it easy to strap the watches to your wrist. I mixed it up quite a bit because I did not have a favorite upfront. After wearing the two dial versions for a bit, I quickly found out more. First off, the design — in case you didn’t notice — bears a resemblance to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris, which I quite like.

Additionally, there is a distinct difference in character between the two dial variations. The silver-dial Ginkai has a more classic presence, while the black-dial Sumi feels slightly more contemporary and has an almost stealthy twist to it.

Additionally, the Ginkai is somewhat less straightforward to read because the polished markers sometimes appear to blend in with the black dial. While it doesn’t hurt readability, as it’s easy to turn your wrist to read the time, it does add to the stealthy character.

Final thoughts on the Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai and Sumi Models

Most of all, I was super impressed by the overall production quality and level of detail of the two watches. Everything feels super solid and well considered. From the depth-giving details to the case finishing to operating the push/pull crown, it all just feels good. Considering the Iwao’s price of €690 (ex. taxes), that is quite special. These watches easily compete with dress and field watches that cost double or triple that price.

Another fun conclusion is that while the two watches feel like dress pieces, their dials add a nice twist. I would not call them thoroughbred dress watches because of their design. The Polaris reference obviously links it to a classic diver, but apart from that, the design also feels less like a field watch. This makes the Iwao Ginkai and Sumi versatile enough to be very capable daily wearers.

Additionally, it was a very pleasant first hands-on experience with two Kiwame Tokyo watches. If the Iwao Ginkai and Sumi are a sign of what is to come, we can expect more great things from the young brand.

The Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai and Sumi will be available starting December 25th at 02:30 CET through the brand’s official website.