Hands-On: The Brellum Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother Of Pearl Chronometer
We continue to be impressed by the watches from Brellum. The small brand produces a maximum of 299 pieces per year, which comprises several limited-edition releases. Today, we go hands-on with the latest model, the Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother of Pearl Chronometer. Yes, that’s a lot of words, but the important details worth noting are the smaller size and the shimmering dial.
Indeed, it was November 2024 when Brellum released its smaller 39mm Duobox. This was a pleasant eye-opener because, while there remains a robust market for larger chronographs, folks like me enjoy a more moderately sized watch. Now, more than a year later, the case returns with a new dial that should appeal to women as much as men. In fact, it wouldn’t surprise me if more end up on female wrists.
The Brellum Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother Of Pearl Chronometer
The latest Duobox 39 makes good on its name with a 39.5mm by 48mm 316L stainless steel case. The 15.3mm thickness sounds beefy, but that includes the AR-coated box-style sapphire crystals on the front and back. Without these lenses, the case has a nice 11.05mm profile. Even if this new variant looks more elegant than others, it is meant to be worn across all activities. A solid 100m water resistance rating ensures this chronograph can handle the swimming pool just as well as the slopes.
As part of the package, the Duobox 39 Ice Blue comes on a five-row stainless steel bracelet. The Jubilee-esque design features three polished central links and brushed outers. A flush-fitting, push-button butterfly clasp handles fastening duties. Like many other modern bracelets, Brellum’s is slim and supple, yet it’s substantial enough to balance the watch head. In addition to the bracelet, the Duobo 39 Ice Blue Mother of Pearl Chronometer also comes with a white calfskin strap and stainless steel pin buckle.
The new ice-blue dial
Whereas the original Duobox 39 had a silver sunray dial, the latest rendition opts for a more organic material. As the Ice Blue name suggests, the color is a lighter shade of blue. There’s no doubt that the shell material provides a translucent finish in some lighting conditions, but in others, it’s barely noticeable. I think that’s a smart move from Brellum because an overly shiny dial might prove too divisive for some potential owners. Our in-house photos show the unique pearlescent texture at some angles, but the watch dial looks solid and almost porcelain-like in others.
Otherwise, the Duobox 39 has a clean and traditional appearance for a chronograph. Applied, polished indexes with Super-LumiNova join luminous hour and minute hands. Angeled metal borders frame the 30-minute totalizer, 12-hour counter, and running-seconds sub-dials. Black ink is used for the numerals, outer seconds track, and a tachymeter scale. All of these indications appear to float above the dial’s surface. Positively, Brellum opted for a dial-matching black-on-light blue date wheel at 6 o’clock. It fits well into the design and succeeds in being legible but also barely there.
A La Joux-Perret caliber inside
It’s amazing how La Joux-Perret’s movements have proliferated throughout the industry. Frankly, they offer fantastic performance and have set the bar for approachable third-party movements. The Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother of Pearl Chronometer uses the manufacturer’s L100 as a base. Then, it gets a host of bespoke decoration, such as the 4N-gold-plated winding rotor. Other niceties include Geneva striping, perlage, and blued screws. All of this is on display via a sapphire-enhanced case back, and the result is worth showing off! The column-wheel-equipped caliber is a certified chronometer, has 60 hours of power reserve, and runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Possibly our favorite Brellum watch on the wrist
I think it’s worth noting that this Brellum, above all others, is the most composed piece we’ve tried from the brand. Yes, the other watches have been great, but the Duobox 39 Ice Blue looks and feels like it could join some offerings from very large companies in the showcase at any high-street boutique. Regarding the dial, I was skeptical when I read what was coming, but in real life, it’s very different. As I mentioned previously, the translucence from the mother-of-pearl is muted, which makes it far more of an unisex offering. After all, we’ve seen a similar dial color from the likes of Breitling with its current Navitimer.
Regarding the thickness, a 15.3mm total may sound hefty, but because more than 25% is in the top crystal and case back, it’s not overly noticeable. Plus, the case design featuresdownward-curving lugs that conform well to the wrist. Additionally, the bracelet flows nicely from the case thanks to the female end links. Finally, because the watch has a smooth bezel and a domed crystal, the overall look is constrained and smaller than the 39.5mm diameter suggests.
Final thoughts and availability
With the new Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother of Pearl Chronometer, Brellum has created an absolute beauty. The brand refrains from slipping into the hackneyed by adorning this watch with a slightly different type of light blue dial. That’s refreshing, but the bigger surprise is the dial’s attractive appearance. At CHF 3,190 with tax included in Switzerland or CHF 2,950 for export, this watch, available on the brand’s website, makes for a nice, non-mainstream option. As always, the run is limited to just 46 pieces scheduled for production. We’re fans of this latest release, but let us know your thoughts in the comments section.
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