Hands-On: The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All Titanium Numbered Edition

The Chronograph 1 is Porsche Design’s champion by some margin. In fact, you could probably make a case for it as a candidate for the top 100 most influential watches of all time. Why? Well, for starters, launched in 1972, it was the first all-black watch, which started a lasting trend. Second, the design language, similarly, has been often copied but never bettered. Perhaps less iconic but equally appealing are the non-blacked-out versions. Today, we see a new model in this lineage, the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All Titanium Numbered Edition.

Porsche Design will produce the Chronograph 1 All Titanium Numbered Edition in a maximum of 1,000 pieces per year. Priced at €7,950 / £7,950 / US$8,250, it also lowers the Chronograph 1’s entry point by some margin. Let’s have a closer look!

Porsche Design Chronograph 1 history

To fully comprehend the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All Titanium Numbered Edition, we have to go back to 1972. Ferdinand Alexander Porsche already had one of the biggest design accolades to his name with the Porsche 911. Determined to translate the same function-first, unembellished design language to watches, he drew the Chronograph 1. Styled after the 911’s dashboard clocks, it sacrifices nearly everything non-essential to pure legibility.

The 1970s were a time of daring, outrageous design. Bright colors, space-age shapes, and more embellishments than ever before were the norm. Seen against this context, FA Porsche’s choice to “murder out” the entire watch in an effort to reduce reflections and glare while driving seems radical. It’s no wonder that several military units equipped their forces with the Chronograph 1. The watch gained some cult status when it was used in the hit movie Top Gun.

At first, Porsche Design watches were produced by Orfina. You will still find co-branded versions popping up on the used market. Later, Porsche Design took assembly in-house. Earlier this month, the brand opened a new facility, significantly upping its capacity. Rest assured, then, that we’ll see more of the Chronograph 1 over the coming years.

The new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All Titanium Numbered Edition

So, what do we have here? In essence, this is a non-limited version of the recent 1975 Limited Edition in Grade 5 titanium. With that 350-piece LE sold out, we now get a more widely available model with similar specs, a lower price, and a display case back thrown in. Not bad, eh?

The first non-coated stainless steel version of the Chronograph 1 appeared in 1975, making that a significant year in the watch’s history. Today’s non-blacked-out version, however, comes in titanium. The lightweight metal features a glass-bead-blasted finish throughout, providing a tactical look. The 40.8mm case has a 14.15mm profile and a 10-bar (100m) water resistance rating. Crucially, this is dynamic water resistance, meaning you can even operate the chronograph underwater. Porsche Design even claims you can pull out the crown and set the time underwater. I bet that’s handy for when you have to swim across time zones!

Inside ticks the Werk 01.140. This automatic chronograph movement is a modified Valjoux 7750, with blacked-out bridges and a custom rotor. It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers 48 hours of autonomy. It has the typical Valjoux 7750 layout, featuring the day and date windows at 3 o’clock and the sub-dials at 6, 9, and 12.

A closer look at the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All Titanium Numbered Edition’s design

When I recently visited the new production site and spoke to the lovely people behind the brand, it became clear to me that they see great potential for the Chronograph 1. They are highly aware that this is their hero product, and they treat it with great care. The house releases limited runs and special editions without messing with the core design too much. Evolution over revolution, as they say.

This is visible in the new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All Titanium Numbered Edition. It remains true to the original design. This means you get a sober, function-first watch with a monochromatic theme only broken by the Guards Red chronograph seconds hand. The dial cleverly utilizes all three dimensions, visually separating elements by height. This provides great clarity and legibility.

Porsche Design puts a ton of emphasis on functional design and the form-follows-function philosophy. This also translates into the choice of materials. Titanium is chosen for its non-allergenic properties and warmth to the touch. The one thing I feel could use refinement in this respect is the watch’s girth. At over 14mm thick, it can be a bit cumbersome on the wrist. Unfortunately, there isn’t much room for a slimming treatment, as the caliber already measures 7.9mm thick, and you need a certain minimum thickness for the crystals on either side for water resistance.

Closing thoughts

I have a soft spot for the Porsche Design Chronograph 1. This new Chronograph 1 All Titanium Numbered Edition may very well be my favorite in the current lineup. The matte gray suits the watch’s overall design to a tee, even if it wasn’t the original shade. Porsche Design isn’t run like your typical watch brand, as you can read here. I see this in the watches as well. They seem to exist outside of the rest of the watch world, with a vibe unique to Porsche Design.

The one point of criticism I often see regarding these watches is the price. They’re priced right up there with watches like the Omega Speedmaster and Breitling Navitimer. Porsche Design will point to technological justifications, such as the underwater operation of the pushers and crown. Indeed, I can attest to the superb build quality. Still, you might argue that the aforementioned competitors have greater legacies and more intricate movements inside. Luckily, Porsche Design positions this latest effort at a more attainable price than its blacked-out brethren in the lineup. While €7,950 / £7,950 / US$8,250 is still costly, at least it is a move down rather than up. Additionally, I certainly cannot say the build quality is inferior to its competitors in any way.

All in all, I think the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All Titanium Numbered Edition is a highly sensible addition to the standard collection. This is and should be one of the staples in the lineup.

What do you think of this latest version of the Chronograph 1? Let us know in the comments section below.