Hands-On With The Reworked HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy Dive Watches

Italian brand HTD has been gracing us with cleverly updated versions of its releases, and the two Aquatíc dive watches are the next in line. These retro-styled divers first came out in 2021 and turned out to be popular with fans. Four years later, the cases of both watches have been redesigned to be slimmer, and the dial designs have been updated. On top of that, the team at HD renamed the Pallettoni, which is now called the Bicchierini. It’s time to find out whether these new models can beat their predecessors.

Take one look at the HTD Aquatíc dive watches, and you’ll know we have entered the world of skin divers. It’s a crowded segment, with many brands offering various vintage-inspired skin divers at different price points. Before writing this review, I chatted about skin divers with Fratello’s wise elder, Gerard. He said something that stuck with me. When asked whether he likes skin divers, he replied: “Yes, I do, but only if they are affordable.” Gerard likes to put things in the right historical context, which makes perfect sense, especially when it comes to these utilitarian divers turned daily wearers.

The story of the HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini and SpaceBoy

As most of you know, historically, many skin divers debuted in the 1950s and ’60s as dressed-down dive watches for snorkeling. Because the specs didn’t need to be as demanding as for professional dive watches, the size and dimensions were generally also friendlier to make them easier to wear. On top of that, the watches were quite a bit more affordable than their professional counterparts. While there is far more to the story of why they were more affordable, such as standardized cases, it creates a bit of context as to why expensive skin divers generally make less sense historically.

In that context, the two HTD Aquatíc hit the sweet spot as they are affordable and have a set of great specs. The two new models will be available for €664 plus VAT. In the Netherlands, that translates into a price of approximately €800. That is a small price increase compared to the €750 that the previous models cost three years ago. As I already hinted at, HTD has improved the watches in some aspects, and the price increase seems only fair.

The specs of the HTD Aquatíc dive watches

Nacho reviewed the previous HTD Aquatíc models in 2022 and was impressed by their charm and the overall quality. With the new updates, the watches should be even better. But with the increased stiff competition at the price point, fans have plenty of options. Let’s get into the details of the watches to see what HTD offers. Both watches feature a stainless steel case with a 39.4mm diameter, an 11.5mm thickness (including the crystal), and a 47mm lug-to-lug. Both watches are water resistant to 200 meters and feature a 120-click bezel containing a black aluminum dive insert with silver numerals and markings and an applied lume pip.

It’s a great set of specs, especially the nice, slim profile, which makes the watches look sleek and easy to wear. This is thanks to the updated case that not only optimized the profile but also made the watches slightly more modern in their presence. Another nice detail is the clever finishing. The predominantly brushed case features polished chamfers, fully polished case flanks, and polished insides of the lugs. On top of that, the grip of the bezel has changed, and it features a similar mix of finishes. The traditional grip has been replaced by a faceted grip comparable to the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M’s bezel. As a result of the faceted grip, HTD could give the bezels a nice contrasting mix of finishes.

Very different dials for the Bicchierini and SpaceBoy

As mentioned, there are two dial variations, which have both lost the “Skindiver” text on the dial. In my eyes, that’s a big plus. Both feature lume-filled, double-tapered hour and minute hands and an arrow-tipped seconds hand. The first dial’s layout has traditional dots and dashes but received an upgrade.

HTD has replaced the printed lume dots with applied markers filled with Super-LumiNova. As a result, the watch looks a bit more modern. The change in dials has also resulted in the new name. Whereas the previous version was named the Palletoni, the new version is called the Bicchierini. It makes it easier to keep them apart in a conversation, so I can understand this move.

The second model is the SpaceBoy, with the characteristic dial reminiscent of the classic Oris Divers Sixty-Five. This dial design goes all-in with tons of lume, color-inverted 3, 6, and 9 numerals, and extended hash marks on the minute track.

For this new version, the brand chose to use an even thicker layer of lume to give the dial a more 3D effect. Compared to the first dial, the distinctly retro vibes have more character. Then again, they are also somewhat of an acquired taste. Still, HTD is smart to offer these two dial options for the fans of traditional skin divers.

The Miyota caliber 90S5

Hidden behind the screw-in case back is the Miyota 90S5 caliber. It’s a step up compared to the Miyota 9039 that powered the previous generation of HTD Aquatíc models. Although the differences are minimal, the 90S5 is a slightly more premium offering. The automatic movement operates at 28,800vph, has 24 jewels, and offers 42 hours of power reserve. In terms of accuracy, the 90S5 should run within -10/+30 seconds per day. We often see microbrands using this caliber, and it has proven to be a reliable go-to for them.

Fishing off the look of the watches is a three-row Oyster-style bracelet with a folding clasp and push-button release. The bracelet tapers nicely from 20mm at the case to 16mm at the clasp. It’s a familiar-style bracelet that feels properly made. While it’s not up to the standards that Christoper Ward has achieved with its bracelets, it easily beats many competitors’ bracelets. The clasp is straightforward and offers four micro-adjustment positions, but you must use a tool to change them. Thanks to the screws in the links, the bracelet is easy to size with a flat-head screwdriver.

Wearing the new HTD Aquatíc models

After sizing the bracelets, it was time for me to take the watches for a spin. As you will understand, they wear well due to their great overall proportions. The slim profile makes it a true joy to wear the HTD Aquatíc models. They sit quite nicely on my 18.5cm wrist, and the overall presence feels familiar. That’s the result of this evolution of the previous models and the classic overall design of the watches. But I will say that the new case and bezel design give the watches a new relevance. Additionally, they provide nice details that give the watches character.

One of the features of a nice dive watch is solid bezel action. While the action on these bezels is impressive, I found it hard to grip them. The faceted design looks super nice, but it’s not the most practical. This made rotating the bezels less fun than it usually is with divers like these. Especially because the overall profile is thin and the bezel is super slim, there is not much surface to grip. If I had to mention one detail that I didn’t like that much, it was that.

Final thoughts on the HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini and SpaceBoy

Other than that, the watches wear like a charm. They feel solid, sit well on the wrist, and look great. I prefer the more “standard” look of the Bicchierini, although that might feel generic to some. The more distinct SpaceBoy design feels retro, but I understand its charm and why people would love that model more. Overall, it’s hard to go wrong with either of these watches. It’s simply a preference in style that will decide which one to go for.

Overall, I found these updated HTD Aquatíc divers impressive. If you are looking for a vintage-inspired skin diver under €1,000, there is no going wrong with these. As already mentioned, there is plenty of competition out there that makes it hard to stand out. But what I like about HTD’s takes on the skin diver is that they stay fairly close to the original designs. This deliberate step might make them slightly less outspoken than some, but it also appeals greatly to a large audience. If anything, the design of these watches was the industry standard for skin divers at one point.

On top of that, the brand presents several clever updates that significantly improve the watches compared to the previous generation. All in all, then, I have to compliment the guys at HTD for creating more great updates to the existing model range. After the brilliant Variante B that I reviewed not too long ago, HTD continues to improve and impress.

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